cleansss20

Well sounds like you're correct. I guess the boost was enough to start the truck but not run any of the gauges. After charging the battery to a full charge everything seems to be working...

Truck has been sitting awhile and drained the battery. Bought a new battery and drove it around. When I get in it this morning the cluster was lit up but none of the gauges were working. I've read where the clusters are notorious for bad stepper motors and such, but what could cause all of them to stop at the same time?

Welcome from wynne!

I swapped to the 4l80e and have about that much in mine! Got a used trans and had it freshened up and a transgo hd2 kit put In it and a circle d converter. Trucool. and 2 new driveshafts built. I'd hate for you to spend 3k on basically the same transmission and be in the same boat later.

I was on the pt.net group on fb and it seemed like every time somebody asked a legit question there was always a douche saying something about checking blinker fluid or flux comp. or something stupid. I have learned a lot from this site. I still check it every day im at work.

My charge pipe blew off mine last time I was getting it tuned and now I got a pimple on my hood...I cant win for losing!

Nah it's still MAF. Ls9 injectors (cant remember if its 56 or 57#) Normally makes 8-10# of boost. But the rich condition starts before it even pulls up 1# of boost. As soon as I get on the throttle it drops to 8.1 afr and after I let off of it and keep a constant driving speed of around 55mph it levels out to around 13-14afr. I don't have anything to data log it. Im wondering if maybe my maf is dirty. I have snow performance meth injection and I have the knob turned all the way down to kick on when I build boost. Wonder if it actually kicks on before boost is made and my meth to water % is too high. I have it turned on at 1# of boost and full spray at 4#.

My truck is tuned and normally running at 13.5-14 during normal driving and under boost normally drops down to around 12. I was driving home the other day and noticed my afr was at 8.1 under throttle. But after I got to cruising speed it leveled back out to 13-14. The only thing that I have changed was my meth injection. I went from "boost juice" to half methanol half distilled water mixture. I kept adding more water to my tank thinking I might have too much methanol. What could be some of the causes for the richness? Spark plug or something fouled? I can't really tell if it misses due to the cam and procharger. I guess I could always turn off the meth inj. to see if its still rich without it. Any help leaning towards a possible problem would be appreciated.

It all depends on tune. There are guys on here pushing 20# and are running fine and some like me who threw a rod out the side of the block at 8#. Depending on your boost levels you might have to do a SD tune instead of MAF sensor. I'm still waiting to get mine tuned again but I added meth injection this time as a little more insurance.

I had lt headers, no cats and magnaflows on my truck and it sounded horrible. Drone and popping. I had to add in some resonators and x pipe and it sounds better. But unless you need to remove the cats I wouldn't.

welcome from eastern ar!

Ready for pics of your headlights damian. I looked up their website but looks a little confusing with all the choices lol

What drop do you have? I have the DJM 3/4 drop and I have the TBSS 22 reps. I need to get new tires and would like to have the thickest sidewall possible without rubbing. The guy I bought them from had like 265/35 on them and they are super thin...

What is the difference in length between the 105a and 145a alternator belt lengths. Going to put my procharger back on and need to know how much longer my belt needs to be. Thanks

What is the difference in belt lengths from the 105a alternator to the 145a. Putting my procharger back on and need to know how much bigger of a belt I need. Thanks in advance.

I have an 03 with a return style rail. I'm swapping out to a nnbs intake and rail which is returnless. After I ordered the corvette filter I got to wondering if I should stay return style or swap to returnless. Will I need a retune since the old rail is vacuum referenced? What will change when I put my procharger back on...can it still accurately reference the boost thru the tune without going full SD tune? I want to make it easy for me but also easier on my tuner too!

After I got the clip from the junkyard off the Tahoe it literally took me 2 sec to slip the clip on. I don't know why I had such a hard time the first time unless the clips are a little different?

Ever since I've done the 80e swap I never really had to apply pressure to the brake to switch it from park.

I used the brake pedal from the Tahoe. What is that white plastic electronic piece that clips on the brake pedal?

After freaking 15min of trying to get the clip back on the brake pedal it shot across the underside of the dash and I couldn't find it. Luckily I picked up the clip from the Tahoe donor on my way home yesterday. Going to put it on tonight or tomorrow. There is a little hesitation in the pedal. You can push down and its like an inch or so play before it clamps. But it feels like it is going to clamp pretty hard. What do I do about the electronic plug that was on the vac. booster?

Doing a little hydroboost swapping tomorrow! I'm tired of pushing the pedal allllll the way to the floor to brake hard. Wish me luck! lol