eberhama

Just headrests and door emblems away from being a good tribute/clone. Reads like a car jockey is selling it(dealership in the background?), rather than the guy who put it together.

A really nice drivers seat I could get $200 any day, $300 to the right guy. Passenger seats are much cheaper, maybe $100-$150, as they never see the wear the drivers side does. Throw in SS headreasts for $200-ish. So $500 for the pair? maybe start a little lower and go from there?

better/faster than an SS?

Yeah, he's going to be storing that one for quite a while at that price. The 4x4/muscle car/hot rod guys that are interested in a 15y.o. 200K+ mile motor are going to be some cheap sum bitches. If the people needing LQ4s ever catch on that an LQ9 will go right in its place(and give a nice HP boost)then maybe he'd get close to that.

The LQ4's are a slightly different animal. They are in every overworked and under maintained work truck and van. They are the right age to be laying down in droves, so the demand(and price) is high. I'm going to go against the majority here. I think if you could get anywhere near the 1K mark for a stripped long block you should take it and run. For $1500, you can get a dropout LQ9 complete from a yard and it usually comes with a warranty. I got my motor off the board here, with cam upgrade, minus coils and exhaust manifolds for $500, and he was glad to be rid of it.

grab a harness too, DORMAN 917033, cheap insurance against having to take the manifold off again

I looked for quite a while looking for one, and never found a correct aftermarket one. Every place calls the regular silverado on with a painted center bar an "SS" grill, so you have to sift through pages and pages of the incorrect one. LMC seems to know the difference, and the price isn't so bad(compared to OEM one).

Do the seats do anything? Tilt? seat back adjusts? lumbar? If so, then you have a bad motor or switch. If they are both stone dead, then the problem is upstream. The power for the pass. seat piggybacks off the drivers side, so if the drivers power is cut they will both be dead.

Never seen 1 seat go out, much less two at the same time. You have a problem upstream of the seats, a fuse, relay, something unplugged, pinched wire, etc. Also, the seat tracks are the whole bottom of the seat, no good way to separate them without splitting the seat in half(also a pain in the @ss).

$75-$100 on a good day. I've got one on craigslist for $75 with no takers after a month.

Like doughty08 was getting at, while a weekend supercharger swap sounds like it would work on paper, in the real world it rarely works like that. You'll strip a bolt, wreck a gasket, be missing a tool, or they sent the wrong bracket. And it will usually happen at 10:00pm on sunday when everyone is closed, so your on the Huffy express to get to work. Buy a cheap beater so you have a plan B, and start swappin.

The current body style Silverado 4.3's are 285 N/A horse out of the box, so its possible. I think a better option would be a junkyard 5.3 swap would be easier and cheaper base to build power on. Maybe try to find an L33 for a little extra zing.

Mine has 7 bolts, and my box was off a rust free texas truck. Doesn't take much to spin those inserts. Do you have a pic of you evap solenoid?

the top left button, the face with the sound waves in front of the mouth

You can weasel a sawzall blade between the mount and the box, and cut the head off. You can tack the insert once the box is off to keep it from spinning, or run with 7 bolts. My question is why are you taking the box off if you have an evap code? the solenoid and canister can be serviced from the bottom pretty easily, no box removal required.

Where's the fun in that? We want newbs looking for parts bringing this thread back to the top for the next five years.

If you truck is clean, you can just take the 4 bolts off the top of the abs unit, and have yours rebuilt, or swap it with a junkyard unit. No need to touch the hydraulic side. If you have a rust belt truck, you'll have to swap the whole unit as the screws will be rusted up, and you'll probably twist off a few brake lines getting it out. Find out the codes first, might just be a front sensor or something easy to fix.

That front bumper is fixable. I'd rather have a repaired GM cover, than a aftermarket one the paint wont stick to. My front bumper was way worse, and it came out just fine after repair.

2003-2006 AM mono-FM stereo-cassette (opt 9R0) 2003-2006 AM mono-FM stereo-electronically tuned receiver (opt UM7) 2003-2004 AM-FM-stereo-6 disc CD (opt UC6) 2003-2004 AM-FM-stereo-CD-navigation (opt UM8) 2003-2004 AM-FM-stereo-cassette-CD player (opt UB1) 2003-2004 AM-FM-stereo-single CD (opt UB0) These are the 6 options that were technically available for 2003 silverados, but I've only ever seen UB0, UB1, and UC6 in an SS.

the blue tint is on the bulbs in the form of little blue condoms that slip over the bulbs. they are pretty easy to remove without hurting anything.

yep

Sold

Sounds like a speed sensor, or the wire going to the speed sensor. With no input from the sensor, the speedo reads 0. With input from the front wheel sensors, and 0 from the rear sensor, the abs unit says "WTF?" and the brake warning light comes on. The trans will shift off pressure, but it will rev pretty high before it does. I drove one for quite a while like this, and it didn't seem to do any harm, but it was super annoying.

The black textured ones will go right on there. If the painted covers on yours are still good, you can pop the "guts" out of a textured one, and put your painted covers on. If all else fails, you can sand the texture off and paint the textured one no problem. Not to excuse the body shop for gooping yours back on, but its a bastard to get them off the SS covers without breaking them.

Am I missing something? Haven't you had this stuff on ebay for like 10 years? Also, its easier to sell parts if you website isn't broken for years at a time.