eberhama

Either put a mechanical gauge on it, or find a friend with a known good cluster to pop in. Rule out gauge error. If its really zero psi, the motor would probably rattle. I've seen the bad o-ring cause pump cavatation, but that's usually on the 07-09 trucks.

99-06 has hydraulic clutch. Even used the same slave cyl. as a Camaro.

I would think pedals out of a 99-06 manual truck would be easiest, since it's a bolt in.

I'm sure you'd rather just bolt one on and go, but you can swap the little latch levers on the handle and make a rear handle into a front handle. Might open up the search a little.

Check out this thread on the same subject, by the same person, from last week:

When did the symptoms start? Die on the road? Didn't start in the morning? After a motor swap? Bought it dead?etc. Do you have lights/radio/gauges, just no crank? Unless the truck was struck by lightning, I'm guessing the bcm is fine.

Unless someone changed it, you should have a gov-lock style limited slip, not a clutch type. It's possible it's stuck in the "locked" position. If this was the case, it would chirp the inside tire turning either way, though. Maybe pop the wheel& rotor off and check for a locked up caliper or a grenaded parking brake assembly.

you wont need a bigger alternator. If you wire it in factory style to the computer, you will need it tuned to have the fan control turned in the computer. Otherwise the fans will do nothing. You could also wire it through a relay to a toggle switch, or a cheap thermostatic switch on the engine, or just wire the relay trigger wire to key on power, and they'd just run anytime the key is on.

I would put my money on front diff. Wheel bearings are usually more of a clicking noise, especially on turns. T-case can make lots of noises, not usually howling though.

$250?

The CV shafts? All the same.

Awd trucks are different than 4x4. Awd t-case is smaller so the driveshaft is longer, if I remember right.

It might be more to do with age the beating on the truck? Awd seem to be a little harder on hubs than 4x4s. This happened on my denali, I cleaned them and they've been fine for 5 years/10k+ miles.

One or both your front and sensors are dirty. Sometimes you can clean them and be good for a while. Usually it's a sign of the wheel bearing getting chewed up and spitting metal particles onto the sensor magnet.

Offers?

Having one driveshaft out will allow the t-case to spin, and the truck to roll, even in park.

If its still moving and not making noise, you might be alright. I'd put the diff back in and go, but I'm a cheap b@stard. Might not hurt to have a t-case located, as a plan B.

Makes no difference on the motor size, youd have to check the RPO codes in the glove box. K68=105 amp, KG3=145 amp, KW1=160 amp. The vast majority of trucks are KG3's.

Escaldes and denalis are all 3.73. you can grab a 4.10 out of a Silverado/avalanche/Tahoe/suburban 4x4 and switch the pass. Side axle tube, with your awd style axle tube. That's the only difference. On the t-case, as long as it was an NP3 optioned (not NR3) it's a direct replacement as well.

Sold

Catch your fingernail under the edge and lift a little. Then insert a metal putty knife in the crack. There are 5? Clips, and 6/7 small strips of double face tape. Use the knife to "saw" through the tape. Once all the tape is cut the cover will be loose, and it can be gently pried off. If you break a clip or two in the process, no big deal, they're more to locate the cap than to hold it on.

Yep, don't get the auto parts store/hardware store double faced tape. go to a real body shop supply place and get the real stuff. Its also no real cheap, but you'll find lots of stuff to use it for.

If you've got a bench seat truck its a little easier. If you have a console truck, that will need to come out. Also helps just to get the seats out of the way. Once the seats and console are out, and the dash is dropped, you can swing the dash out of the way enough to get the box out, no need to disconnect the main harness. You will need to crack the a/c system open to get the box out as well. Its not super complex, but it is a long ordeal.

701-866-5573. I just need a small piece kind of under the driver's taillight. Maybe snap a pic of the whole cover? Mines been wrecked and fixed at least once before in that spot. Might be easier just to split in half, wouldn't be much of a seam to hide. Thanks, matt

Looking for a top pad for an SS rear bumper. Doesn't need to be super nice or have all the tabs. The truck it's going on is rough around the edges, but looks weird without it. Could also use a small chunk of the bumper cover if anyone has a shredded one. Thanks, matt