stickler88

Welcome to the site...look around and dig in

Thanks.. sent so im in..

I'll take one if still available. Send me the info.

So, in the end it was the transmission. The bearing inside the planetary failed, got chewed up in the sun and planetary gears and bam. It was so bad my case was trash too. So I had another tranny built with all the works a 4L65 can get. My transfer case was good, while I was in there a sonnax case saver went in even though I had no wear on the case, along with new gears, chain, pump, bearings and bushing, seals and fresh auto trac. I did my drive shaft u joints. Pulled the rear down and went through that too. I completely went through the front diff and did a 100% build on it so it's ready. So today i'll be under the lift all day to get it all put back in and back in the streets....

And if you want to test your NVG149 this is right from the book. I have the whole file so if someone wants it let me know. This is the just of it.. 6. Install the J 45382 into the transfer case front output shaft. 7. Using a torque wrench at 11 N·m (100 lb in) on the J 45382 , turn the front output shaft 90 degrees. 8. Note the length of time it takes to turn the front output shaft the 90 degrees. * If the front output shaft turns slow, and takes at least 10 seconds, the viscous coupling is operating correctly. * If the front output shaft will not turn, the viscous coupling or the planetary carrier assembly could be locked-up. * If the front output shaft turns easily, and the 11 N·m (100 lb in) cannot be obtained, the viscous coupling is faulty.

I have a seal kit, case saver pump plate, chain, pump, and bearings coming for the transfer case. At this point I want my driveline all at 100% when I drop it on the ground. Pulling the rear tomorrow and doing new axles, seals, carrier unit and bearings. For the transfer case I'm gonna try and post a few pics so some can see what it's like and what I'm doing. I tried but can't post pics. If there is a method let me know. Would like to let others see what they would be looking at. I have read about problems with a site holding pictures or not being able to post them.

well, to everyone reading, it's not the transfer case. My tranny no matter what gear selection it's in, except park will only turn CCW looking at the tail shaft which in turn spins the diff mounted towards the tranny for forward. I grabbed the output shaft of the tranny and tried to spin it the other way with some BIG pliers locked on and it will not budge the other way. There is some clicking noise and the sound of a tire screeching on the ground when turning the direction it will go. Very light and not very loud but it's there. So what can make a tranny output shaft only turn one way no matter what gear your in except for park is my biggest question? I watched this guy build mine and all the thicker more robust parts go in. The stuff that came out was thin, and I was surprised a tranny would have lasted as long as it did with what came out. But all the stuff that went in was good stuff. Billet shafts, clutch packs, upgraded sprag unit, beast shell, upgraded pump, Kevlar band, corvette piston, boost valve.. many more parts, but it was done right is what I saw and agree with. And it has been throwing me in the backseat every time it shifts since then without an issue. So?

I am not a tranny expert, but I watched mine being built. I believe there is a separate clutch pack for your 1,2,3, and reverse gear. It's called lo/rev clutch pack and it's in the rear of the tranny. Your drive section is towards the front. So it sounds like you are using that to get moving and your main forward/drive pack is probably toast and needs a rebuild.

When I bought the truck I was told drive line was all original. Looks to be original T case. And I have 123k now. I opened it up when I did my tranny about 20k-3 years ago. It seemed it was the first it was opened. Did seals and fluid, chain was good so I didn't change it. So in 20k it got that dark, it wasn't that dark when I did the tranny. I could tell it was auto trac fluid, dark blue but not closer to black. I'll have it on the ground later this evening. It just doesn't add up to my problem, no reverse and a tugging forward. Even if the coupler is welded together I should be able to go fwd and rev. My power split may be screwed up trying to drive down the road but it should at least move In my driveway? I would think anyway.

So I wrote a post about a front diff last week and had some questions. In turn my front diff was worn, but not toast. Gears were good, carrier.. etc. Needed new bearings and seals (master overhaul kit) and it's back in spec. My problem when I had it towed for the first time ever, is that it would move forward with a drag and reverse felt like I had the e brake on with my foot on the brake pedal. It would not move. Even as they winched it in neutral, neither the front or back tires moved. I just did the front, pulled the rear cover and all was good there as well. With no drive shafts in I started it up for a couple seconds in reverse and then in forward and both front and rear output shafts turned on the transfer case. I put in the rear drive shaft and noticed also in neutral, I could only turn the driveshaft in the transfer case in the direction of forward. Trying to go reverse felt like it was in park. I also have not put my front diff in either so nothing is on the transfer case where the front shaft goes. Couple questions, unless someone knows from past experience. 1, if the viscous coupler goes what color would it turn my auto trac 2 fluid which has about 20,000 miles on it. Mine came out a dark blue. Almost black looking. I had the tranny built to stage 2, since I had the 149 on the ground I opened it up, checked the chain which was tight so I did not change it. All I did was clean it up, put new seals in and new auto track 2 fluid. 2, If it's the tranny what would lock reverse and drag forward? It has about 20k on it and I did a service at 10k after the build. It is the 4L65E. I had no noises, grinding, smells or higher temperatures. It hit the truck like a lighting bolt and stopped it in it's tracks. I have my hands in the air at this point. In the next day or so I will be pulling the transfer case down and looking into that. And if that checks the tranny will be next. Anybody have anything on this?

cool, thanks really appreciate it!

No one can help me on this.... It's a make or break. If that's normal I will rebuild it myself. If not, then any info on that would be great. I have searched and only found one being rebuilt with the same problem. He used a punch to dimple the casing and Loctite to hold them in tighter. But have not seen anything after that saying it was all good. I am having one built specific to my truck and how I drive, when it gets here I plan to look at it, yes tear a new diff apart and check the same thing. It may answer me enough to rebuild mine and have as a backup ready to go in the future....

Hey guys, I joined the site in 2011 when I bought mine. 2nd owner with 70k on the odo. Needless to say at that point I should have become a supporting member. But I am now. Love the truck, when the wheels fall off I'll rebuild re build her and keep rolling. I am in the Hollywood fort Lauderdale area and there's a few of us running around...a couple blues like mine, few blacks,1 red I see time to time and a silver in Lauderdale....

Just did it myself. If you have one of these trucks..... it's what you should do. Not to sound like a Hippocrates because I joined years ago but the deed is done. Thank all of you that make this possible for this special truck.

It would have seemed my front diff locked up. Removed front and rear shafts, rear checked out, tcase checked out. The front had a lot of play on the yoke, almost 3/8" turning left to right and I couldn't turn it. Took It down and by then getting it to the bench it seems to feel normal. Drained and found some silver not a lot in the oil. Also some metal on the plug but no chunks. No damage or traces to the gears and the pinion feels right on. The only strange thing is the races for the carrier bearings one fell out while separating the case, and the other I pulled out with a pick. It appears they were turning in the case. Are my halves toast? Both adjuster locks are in. Never done one of these...

So she's got 120k on the odo, my front diff was growling and making a thump thump on left turn off exit ramp turns. Turns out my year and four month hub bearing assy's went bad on both sides. The passenger was really bad, driver was a slight shake in the wheel. However, after Timken bearing assy's -which I should ave put on the first time, all my noise is gone except around 65 mph and above all the way to 120 I have the whine, slightly louder than I have ever heard. So iv'e seen posts of what rebuild kit to buy, but iv'e read you need pullers and such to do it. So as I prepare for this sooner or later what do I need exactly to do this on a Saturday. Meaning all the parts needed for a rebuild plus updates, special tools etc. I want to have everything ready so when I drop it, I can rebuild it even as a worse case scenario and get it back in. Even if it means having extra parts just in case bearings have spun in the case and I need a half of a case or whatever. I have seen the reputation for proven force, and worst case scenario that would probably be my first option, with the exception that I have some time and i'd like to do it myself. I do have exp. with diffs.

Iv'e seen these two trucks a few times on us1 heading towards 595 onramp....