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stickler88 last won the day on March 3 2018

stickler88 had the most liked content!

About stickler88

  • Birthday 04/06/1977

Previous Fields

  • Owns
  • Silverado SS/VHO/TrailBlazerSS Color
    Arrival Blue
  • SS/VHO/TrailBlazerSS Year
  • Drivetrain Config
  • Modifications
    Tuned,170 stat,Built S2 4L65E,CAI,DC Power XP270 alt,PPI PC amps,Auburn rear,Amsoil throughout

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  • Location
    fort lauderdale

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  1. It's not all that hard to do if you are familiar with diff's. If you have the tools, bearing pullers, slide hammer to get axles out etc.. and know how to set up a ring and pinion I find it harder to remove and reinstall it then rebuilding it. There are write ups on it. What kits to buy. You tube also has videos that show it as well. It's worth the look first so if you do tear it down you will be familiar with what to look for if things have worn out. Like broken lock tabs etc... On my truck I bought a rebuilt one because of time issues, it was my DD at the time. I then rebuilt my original and have it just in case this one fails or starts leaking or something.
  2. Spotted a black SS on 595 westbound around 7am west of pine island......
  3. So my throttle body is clean, my connector and connections are good. But when at a light it stumbles for a split second once out of 3 times. So it doesn't always do it. Pulled the plugs and even replaced them with iridium which were in there to begin with. Good color, not lean or rich. Replaced the wires and still the same result. I am getting ready to purchase a Tech 2 just for this truck for diagnostic and programming purposes. But it will be a couple weeks out before the guy comes back from vaca to seal the deal so I can fully dig in. There is no hiccups otherwise, full throttle to hitting it. Just when I come up to a light and idle for a little bit. It does not feel like a misfire, it's more like split skip and it's 100% on. Any ideas?
  4. like someotherguy said, if you have AWD you have 8.6 ring gear which goes in a 10 bolt rear end. And most definitely 4.10 gears.
  5. it's funny after adding a reply to an earlier post I'd figure I would post my problem. Earlier in this post I went through my case. Then I had a vibration at around 67. Turned out to be my slip yoke u joint. Which vibrated to the point of wearing out the bushing in the rear of the transfer case. Which down the line started putting stress on the main output shaft bearing, to the point where it wallowed out the casing. My output shaft on the transfer case had over 1/4 inch, so I tried the aluminum rear case. Did not line up right and I was shaking my head saying this doesn't feel right. So I found the original magnesium case. It came with the bushing and internal roller bearing installed. Popped the seals in, smashed it together and torqued the bolts and after around town runs and then a couple 137 mph runs verified by gps and a stalker dsr radar system running, it is as smooth as glass.... it is good. Just dropped the fluid again to check, and put new in. And I use GM auto trak ll fluid. I run my truck hard, it was good to see what worn out. Now that it's back up I have no problem punching it on the turnpike to get to top speed and have a worry about something failing. These trucks are badass when things are right.
  6. I can say, my u joints in the slip yoke that go into the transfer case got "crunchy' caused a vibration. That vibration led to the galling and failure of the bushing in the rear housing bushing in the transfer case. Which down the line, pulled the seal and bushing out while going on vacation after I got her repainted....looking fabulous and to fail... led to shaking the output shaft until it wore out the magnesium casing where the bearing sits in. SO for a u joint that started a vibration... ended up being an original mag rear casing, original spicer yoke and u joints-seemed the only thing that holds up... tried the aluminum rear casing, things didn't line up right, got the original NPG mag rear case, came with the bushing and the internal bearing installed... fit like a glove and it's been like glass ever since.
  7. welcome, and a nice truck as well. Intimidators are cool! Got some mods as well. Looks good!
  8. welcome to the site, and welcome owning one of these beautiful trucks. This is the place for them. Took me a little while, but in the end I became a supporter of the site, but its worth it. So many people have situations that can be tuned into with things we have already have experienced with these trucks. Good line by the way, "Absolutely love it, gonna drive it till the wheels fall off" that's what I said when I got mine along with I am gonna rebuild it and put them back on.....
  9. My first question is are you sure it's you t-case? The front diff on these things can whine as well. But if it is your t-case, like Aldofashow said parts are around 600 however you should throw in a sonnax case saver kit. Technical wise it's not that bad to do if you have common shop tools and a good stiff pair of lock ring pliers. I used a MAC tools pair and they worked great. Otherwise getting the lock ring out can piss you off. These cases are chain driven so the whining kinda makes me wonder. There is a test you can do to check the fluid coupler in it. It is online and in this site. But if you pull the driveshafts and check play and all that, if it seems ok do the coupler test. Have you checked the fluid? What does it look like? Just a few things to consider. They hold up pretty good normally. But anything is possible in a mechanical world. I did mine at 120k and all it needed was bushings, chains, replaced the pump anyway, case saver kit and a set of chain gears and bearings.
  10. Some knucle head hit my truck couple weeks ago while I was rolling through an intersection. Just the bumper skin, bumper and park light housing need replacing and paint. Saw it coming so I hit the brakes but he was in a different state and kept rolling to make a turn across the intersection. Anyways, my truck is an 04 SS arrival blue. What is the interior color for the dash cap. The plastic part where your light sensor is? It cracked and needs replacing. Any help real quick would be appreciated. I have searched but some say pewter, some say dark etc.... Just wanna get her fixed right. Thanks, yeah I realized I spelled knuckle wrong... was typing fast. lol
  11. Congrats Reggie on the truck!!! Welcome to the site, there's a lot here.
  12. I believe Pattern 6x139.7 Lug Size M14X1.5
  13. It's not hard to do if you have knowledge of a differential, pullers to get the carrier and pinion bearings off and a dial gauge to set the back lash. Look on youtube for gm ifs differential rebuild and you will see what it will be. If not, I tried to get a buddy of mine to let me show him and he just wanted to do a swap. He got his from justchevytrucks.com. If he doesn't have it in stock, he had his built within a day and shipped. Installed it 4 days later and still running like a champ.
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