monster1213

Bump. $550 shipped

2010+ NNBS intake manifold comes as shown in pics with rails, flex fuel injectors, map sensor, evap solenoid and PCV fitting/tube. Ported LS3 throttle body (gold blade obviously) X-link (newer version that works with gold-blade) Asking $550 shipped. Would really like to sell as a package. PM me or text (7one7) 636-2937

I'm originally from central PA. Just returning finally after 9 years in the Navy. I'm moving back to a small town about 30 miles north of Harrisburg. Thanks! I will shoot you a PM too

Oh the SS sedan is unbelievable. It's an absolute race car when you want it to be, but has enough comfort and bells and whistles to keep you satisfied. Mine is a manual trans, so it makes it even more fun to haul the mail!

In the middle of moving from VA to PA and decided to let the Silverado SS do truck stuff. Definitely didn't build her as a tow vehicle, see mods in sig. But she surprised me the whole 350 miles and averaged 12 mpg towing around 6,000 lbs. Yes, that's my Chevy SS grocery getter too!

You don't have a ton of mods to point the finger at. I would check/clean the MAF too.

Brian Tooley Racing seems to have built a pretty legit reputation in the LS world. As you can see in my sig, that's what I went with for my recent build. Fair prices, one stop shop for all your engine hardware, and great customer service. I'm not preaching BTR, just expressing my good interaction with them.

I'm assuming the LS2 injectors are a higher flow rating than what your truck is currently tuned for? Personally, there's no way I'd drive 50 miles with different injectors. Could cause a lean condition that would result in some for engine damage. Just speculation, why don't you call your tuner and ask him?

Although not a very high lift cam, I'd look into installing hardened pushrods while you're in there. And for that cam, I think you'd also benefit from a higher stall torque converter (3000 stall range?) E fans, keep it simple/reliable and pick up a set of 05+ Silverado/SUV from eBay or your local scrap yard. They're a direct fit to your radiator. You'll need an e fan wiring harness too. Sounds like a solid build plan.

When these intake swaps first started, people were only looking for silver blades because gold blades were being difficult and giving some people 'reduced engine power' issues. From my understanding, the issue has been fixed with the correct version of X-link they now offer. Color doesn't matter, 90 mm is 90 mm. And the ls7 is the exact same throttle body as LS2 (silver blade) and LS3 (gold blade). If you're interested in saving money, buy the cheapest one of the bunch (LS3 gold blade) and use the appropriate x-link.

Sorry boss, haven't heard of anyone using the vortech on our trucks and your fitment issues may be the reason why. Good luck with the build. Sounds like youre headed in the right direction though and let us know when you get her bolted up.

Are you referring to crank bearing main caps? The SSS has an LQ9 engine and uses 6 bolts per bearing cap, the same as other LS engines.

There's an NNBS intake complete with rails and injectors for sale on perftrucks forum if you're interested https://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/gm-parts-classifieds-23/nnbs-intake-0821-ported-799-heads-549964/

I just completed a full LED install (minus the cluster which was previously done) a few weeks ago. Wasn't too hard at all, just very time consuming. Let me know if you're trying to tackle this and need some pointers or what to buy and how to do install and I should be able to help you.

^^^^Same. Mobil 1 in diffs, autotrak II in transfer case

Not sure what brake codes it was throwing, but I'm assuming that quote was to purchase and install a new EBCM? If they recommend totally replacing the module, why couldn't you buy one for $160 and do it yourself?

I am by no means an electrician, just trying to share the knowledge I came across in my search for a good switched 12v source to use inside the truck. You can use this for any component requiring 12v power source with the key in the on position (aka Hot Accy/Run). I was looking for power to my wideband O2 sensor. I decided to use the SEO connector in the Mid BEC to avoid splicing into other systems wires and without using an 'add-a-fuse' in the fuse box and having wires everywhere. I used the diagrams attached below and metered everything out before unhooking the battery, everything checked out and my O2 sensor is working good so far. 1. Locate the Mid BEC (black box) under the driver side kickboard behind the parking brake. 2. Remove cover and locate the SEO (Specialty Equipment Option) connector C8, in the upper left hand corner of circuit. 3. You could buy the female GM connector for this, but I chose to use female electrical connections I had laying around to tap into only the posts that I needed. The upper right hand terminal is your switched 12v power (Hot Accy/Run) and the lower right hand terminal is your ground. Looking at this diagram, don't forget to inverse the picture as if you were plugging the connector in. 4. I added a 10A inline fuse to my positive lead to protect my wideband and truck's system and connected to both terminals. 5. Brought my O2 sensor through the grommet in the firewall behind the Mid BEC. And into the engine bay beside the master cylinder 6. Ran it along the frame rail Over the front driveshaft and into the bung on my collector. 7. Temporary wideband gauge installation until I add fuel pressure gauge and make a pod.

What does best exhaust setup mean? Are you looking for best performance or sound? And what do you mean by change the sound of your exhaust? You want it to louder, or just different? You could put some whistle tips on it... that would change it a bit.

I don't think you'll see a change in temp by installing a 160* thermostat alone. Yes, it may open at 160* and therefore circulate the coolant a tad sooner, but how does this actually maintain a lower coolant temp by itself? To benefit from a lower temp thermostat and see a difference, you have to get your cooling fans running at a lower temp too. Which may be an issue with a mostly stock 03 SS with a mechanical fan... Just my understanding of coolant/thermostat thing.

Here's a list of the Moog parts I ordered and successfully installed from RockAuto for right around $280. Fit was great for my 03 AWD. Inner tie rod P/N: ES3488 qty: 2 Outer tie rod P/N: ES3493T qty: 2 Upper ball joint P/N: K6540 qty: 2 Lower ball joint P/N: K6541 qty: 2

I just recently installed all new Moog tie rods (inner/outer) and ball joints (upper/lower) for my 03 SSS. Can't beat RockAuto prices for this IMO. Let me know if you want part numbers.

With one bad ball joint and one bad inner tie rod, I just decided to do a front end freshen up last week. I went with all Moog components. New upper and lower ball joints, new inner and outer tie rods on both driver and pass. side. Total cost $275.

That's all I needed to hear. Haha one bad experience is enough. Thanks for the input.

To those that did TBSS/NNBS swap and went return-less fuel system: Anybody have any fuel pressure issues with the corvette filter? I'm debating between running the vette filter and installing an Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator. Any persuasion either way is appreciated.

^^^ Agreed. I installed with my 40k, works great. He's still selling them, should be able to purchase through his paypal. Check out this link: http://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/member-made-tools-parts-classifieds-197/tru-cool-max-trans-cooler-4739-47391-install-kit-brackets-fittings-hardware-508374/