Tyson1972

Does anyone know the part number, where I could buy one or the price of the puddle/flood light bulb housing that goes under the mirror of our trucks? The mirror and glass are both fine on both sides. The plastic compartments are both cracking and falling apart. Thanks for any help Jason

Does anyone know the part number, where I could buy one or the price of the puddle/flood light bulb holder that goes under the mirror of our trucks? The mirror and glass are both fine on both sides. The plastic compartments are both cracking and falling apart. Thanks for any help Jason

I would jump all over this but my trans is slipping from 1st-2nd & I'm 2WD. I live in the Fayetteville/Ft. Bragg area.

Pacestter's 1 7/8 or Texas Speed & Performance 1 7/8 F-Body headers will work. The Pacesetters are a coated header & the TSP headers are stainless. The Pacesetters have a smop/egr port on them but could be cut off and welded up. Depending on where you live the coated headers will eventually rust out. The TSP headers are stainless and really wont rust. But you will have to reroute your tranny lines and have different mid pipes welded up. The TSP headers are the way I went but I ran 6AN lines and a trucool 40k cooler. I also had a damn good exhaust shop weld up my mid pipes with some barely used Kooks high flow cats.

Im interested in the spare tire lock flap, I PM'd you.

Do you still have the spare tire lock flap, if so is it painted black?

Don't need the tru cool already have one.

Do you have the hangers too or just the shackles?

PM me Im interested in the visor and lower grill inserts.

Exactly that's what I'm saying. Yes you may loose low end but gain top end where it counts.

Exactly and with a good tune which is probably what they did.

A few more pics.

Well I got my TSP 1 7/8 F-Body Headers on with alittle modification. I have to notch the passenger side frame. I also have to install the 40K Tru-Cool trans cooler w/ braided hoses and AN fittings. It has been frustrating with the fact that I dont have a lift, mig welder or air compressor w/ air tools. Here are a few pics so far and I will upload more when Im closer to finishing these mods.

I would be pulling the heads at all. I'm 95% sure Im good.

I will get pictures up when I'm done. I can't bend the header with a 2X4. I'm going to notch the frame some. The tranny lines are getting smashed between the headers, the starter and the block.

Really don't want to pull the heads. I'm going to try the mig welder first.

I have been doing some research on some other forum's and haved found out that these headers will fit on our trucks. The drive's side went on with out a problem and bolted up easy. The collector is canted towards the frame rail (outward) so I will need to have midpipes made for the headers anyway so its not a problem. The passenger side is a pain in the butt. The tranny lines are in the way and will need to bve rerouted. The headers is also hitting the frame around where the collector mieets the primary tubes. But all in all they fit well and look great. I am going to borrow a mig welder from a friend so I can get the 3 bolts that broke off in the heads (one in the driverside & two in the passenger side).

no go on the vise grips, Im going to have to weld a nut on them. I had one more break off in the passenger side head last night.

I'm tracking. I only have thread chasing taps.

I'm going to have to do that because I used a small 7/64th drill bit drilled and 3/4 inch into the passanger side. Then I used a slightly bigger drill bit and the damn thing broke off in the bolt. Luckly I had already had got a nut on the end of the bolt I just need to weld it up then back it out. The other on is on the drivers side and is about 1/2 inch inside the head. I guess I will have to build up some material to weld a nut onto.

Me either, I know there was a guy selling brake ducts along time ago on here and they were actually very well made.

The wing looks great on it. I have a ISS truck and a guy stopped me the other day to ask if I would sell the wing. I told him even if he had $1,000, I would not sell it. Its facotry OEM and came on the truck stock.

I dont know about the reps but the OEM ones can be had for like $85 a piece on GMPartsDirect.com

I know I will have to pull the inner fenderwells on both sides, so that should make plenty of room. I got a nut on the passenger side but its stripped from the bolt being broken and the threads being misaligned. If i cant get the passeneger one to free up I will jujst drill it out also I guess.

Ok guys I have a problem I know y'all can help me with. I have had to bolts break off in my heads. One is on the driver side/left head and it's the one way in the back. Second is on the passenger side/right head and it's in the middle of the head. The one on the left side is broke off in the head about a 16th or 8th inch inside. The one on the right side is broke off outside of the head which is about 1/2 inch outside just enough to get a nut on it. My idea for the left side is drill a small hole in the bolt and use a 7/64 inch easy-out to extract it out. My idea for the one on the right is to weld the nut to the bolt and use a wrench to back that one out. What do y'all use for anti-seize? I DO NOT want to have to pull the heads. Is it possible if I can't get them out to leave them in and fix later when I do a cam & head swap? Thanks for the help in advance.