KAC1023

Sold for 10,500

10.5 new Flowmaster series 44's to be installed next week.

12k

BlackBear tune Uploaded, truck RUNS now, lol. Truck also has 130k miles on it, sorry for missed info. 13k

My Email is [email protected] if anyone wants high res pics, any pic requests, even video. eBay username KAC1023, 100 percent rep

2003 Silverado SS AWD converted to 05 (bigger front brakes and electric fans), K&N intake, Dynatech long tubes with offroad pipes, will include a Dell Laptop and a registered V2, I am the 3rd owner, the 2nd owner only had the truck for 6 months because he found a newer Sss and sold this one. oil always changed, Flowmaster series 40's, one has a small pinhole which I'm gonna have fixed this week with a spot weld. Back Flip bed cover, Alpine double Din screen with iPod, Bluetooth and steering wheel controls. Black on gray with tinted glass. Body is ok, scratches here and there, I was gonna "murder it out" but never did, drivers seat has the usual tear on the side, easy fix. Got a kid due in June and looking to sell the truck before. I also have a 05' LQ4 short block with L92 intake on a stand I was going to have done for the truck, but never had the $ to do. $14,500.00

By your pics your truck looks perfect for a "stock" suspension. Maybe your cover does squash that back down a little? maybe your last owner did remove a leaf? You figure our trucks are "half tons" so 1,000 lbs in the bed, what do you think that cover weighs? I have a "Back Flip" cover on mine, they are light though, maybe 50-60 pounds. I also notice most drops are a 2-4 giving a level stance. seeing my front fender gap now, I might do a spindle and hanger 2-4 drop in the spring.

I had to jump in this thread, had this issue last week. I had my Sss for a little over a year, it always rode a little like poop, but I figured it was the 95k on it. The other week I was changing the oil and realized the front suspension was riding ON the bump stops, the drivers side was actually cracked. I measured from the bottom of my rims to the fender lips and realized the truck was raked almost a inch lower in the front and had a slight drivers lean. I crawled under the truck to find the torsion bar bolts were backed out and the drivers side was about 1/4 to 1/8" further than the passenger side. I jacked the truck up, PB blasted the bolts and tightened then so the tops of the bolts were flush with the crossmember evenly. now after a 15 min ride the truck is level (same distance from the bottom of the rim to fender all around) and the truck rides a million times better. So... check your bump stops in the front, you could of had a budget lowering job like me, mine have about 1/4-1/2" of space now that gives the truck a real nice ride. Now all I need is an alignment

PM Sent

It looks like something went wrong with the truck, he ran a 07 on the tree but after the 60' mark he coasted the rest of the track. 28 seconds 25 mph.

Yea, sorry, it was the link to my buddies Facebook video. I'll see if he can youtube it.

A buddy of mine went to E Town last night and posted videos of his runs. In one of them he went against a Blue tinted Silverado SS. https://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=211917018832819&comments Not sure this link will work.

I think I can handle it myself, do you know the model # of our front diff's? So I can perhaps get a hold of Eaton or whoever and get a rebuild kit? thanks for the quick reply btw

I've been searching the forums on front diff rebuilds and they all involved the removal of the front diff to be "split" and rebuilt. When I updated my brakes to the 05+ brakes I noticed the drivers side diff side axle bearing had a little play, maybe 1/4-1/2". I was telling a mechanic at work about it and he asked if the seal leaking, because sometimes there is a little play there. On Friday I was "under there" changing my oil and saw a little sweat around that seal and it needed a few pumps of fluid. When I'm "working" it's usually bloody like 6-7 days a week, 8-15 hour shifts and in the Spring I have a little "break" so I'd like to catch up on my trucks service so it doesn't break down or have a issue at the worse time. Can these bearings be replaced without the front diff removal? Or does it involve it being removed? Where is a good place to get the bearings or rebuild kit? I have no problem spending a few extra bucks for the right stuff. I went cheap on U joints with my F350 that was modded and less than 2 years later the same U joints had play. Thanks silveradoss.com -Paul

Found this on eBay, thought I'd share http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevy-Supercharger-Magnacharger-kit-6-0L-magna-charger-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2562ac12b7QQitemZ160569234103QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_500wt_1182

Let me know if it doesn't go through, I'm local. (203)496-3700 -Paul

Email me your paypal [email protected] -Paul

I bought a LQ4 last weekend and plan on rebuilding it with the L92 top half. I'm going to sell off the 317 heads I just removed a little while ago. I will post pics tomorrow after work, the lights in my garage suck. The LQ4 came out of a van, everything else is perfect. I will parts wash them down and take pics tomorrow. -Paul

I have the PAC adapter behind my Alpine head unit (that I had a shop install), I had them run a Ai-Net wire from the back of the head unit to behind my glovebox for if I were to put Satellite radio in my truck down the road. Well, I finally put it in and I have a issue like your, I think? When I start the truck the radio is on, like normal, but no sound? after a min or two the sound comes on? I did remove the stock XM controller from behind the glovebox to make room for the aftermarket satellite radio "boxes". I'm gonna shoot a email to PAC and see what they say. Did you mess with any other wires in your truck?

On my way home from work today going like like 70sh on 287 and there was traffic ahead, I slowed down normally, nothing crazy. When I go to like 30-20mph I heard a light clunking under the truck? I had the windows rolled up, so I was thinking (hoping) it was just the tractor trailer next to me, his trailer brakes. when I took back off I heard it again. When I got home I blocked the front tire and crawled under to check the U joints, they are fine (front and rear). I rotated the driveshaft and there was some play in the rear, maybe like 1/8 of a turn, when I put the truck from R (reverse) to D (drive) you can hear that "clunk". I been working 7 days a week 10 hour days so I need the truck to get to and from, but I got the wifes car if the truck goes down. Is there something else I can check? Thanks Sss members. -Paul Greenwich, CT

Where are you located?

Just breezing the forums tonight after changing my resistor today. I had a squeak in my HVAC from #3 to #4, before I bought a new motor I thought I'd take it out and check for debris. After removing it I hooked it up and checked it through the fan speeds for sounds and realized I had no fan speed at #1. I ran to Advanced Auto Parts for the resistor that they had in stock for 33 bucks and I got all speeds but whats weird is I got a light squeak at #3 and #4? but when the motor was out the bearings felt fine (no shim) and was quiet when I ran it out of the dash. FYI the resistor is VERY easy to change, two 5/16 screws, unplug the 7 prong to the resistor and the two prong to the HVAC motor and your all set, I actually did it in the Advanced Parts parking lot.

My Sss is my daily driver and I NEED heat. The HVAC blower motor is squeaking anywhere from #2 on up, has anyone changed one? Are they easy? Is the squeaking a good sign of it going? thanks guys

I know NOTHING about tuning, I think I might get the autocal, so I wont be able to do any damage to my truck, except clear codes. If I wanted to change anything I can email my tune to BlackBear and have it modified to my modifications VIA email.

Yea, Justin @ Black Bear just emailed me back. I think I'm gonna get a autocal after a little more research. I have a Mac though