BlueAKSSS

LOL, this is funny. He lives in Anchorage not with me though lol (the way you worded that). His truck is definitely fast I went for a short ride in it this past summer and was pretty impressed with it, that was without spray and I'm not sure if it was fully tuned but it ran out really good. This should be pretty fun to see.

Great to see a thread on this finally! Your truck is going to be just crazy, can't wait to see it come together and run at the track this summer.

Raising up the compression with those smaller 65cc camber heads should definitely wake your truck up and make it better to drive off boost. I'll be watching this build, now just get Brandon to post up his build lol.

Its a very cool poster. I've got the same one hanging up next to me on the wall, poster 69/3000 listed in the bottom right.

Welcome to the site! Great choice on the color!

There is still a gas station off King St. but I have no idea if they have race gas or not. I am pretty sure you can get some in Anchorage at some place.

That's quite the load! The suspension definitely doesn't like it but like everyone else said there is plenty of power to get the weight moving. Just last week I towed a full size chevy truck on a car trailer behind mine for about a 15 minute drive and it pulled pretty good but pretty much rode on the bumpstops lol... Braking was marginal but worked even without trailer brakes.

LOL! Yeah get that thing put together, jk! Haha your welcome to come hang out anytime, I guess between all of the different cars my family has its quite the collection. I don't think he's talking about you Justin...

LOL that's what I'm saying, after talking to Brandon today! Haha

X2 All AWD SSS= 2GCEK19N All 2WD SSS= 2GCEC19N

Feels like spring for the moment down here, hit 49 degrees today, think we broke a record high lol. Also my truck is now filthy dirty, might wash it off tomorrow.

Sweet sounds like it will be a productive trip! Thats interesting that the 05+ tanks have a bigger buckets, is that because they were a flex fuel version or something?

Thanks for the heads up! I should be free and able to make it and hang out, only bad part is the roads down here will be nasty most likely with highs in the mid 30's to low 40's but that doesn't matter much. Sounds like you've got your build all planned out pretty well and I'm excited to see it this summer when you get it all put together, along with Justin's truck. Are you getting the 4L80's from Don's Auto Salvage?

All NVG-149 transfer cases are the same that I know of, in other words one from a Sierra Denali is the same as the one in a SS. I do not know the spline count but your number sounds right. Maybe someone can verify that has one off there truck or just knows.

****Warning this is by no means a how to but just a diary of the information I learned from my experience rebuilding my front differential and the basic steps of how I did it***** This Saturday I got my friend who is a ASE tech to show me how to rebuild the 8.25 front differential in the SS. Make sure you get a full rebuild kit before starting this job along with pipe thread sealant, and GM anaerobic sealant for the case halfs and new lock tabs. Also you will need a bearing splitter, access to a press, a GM 8.25 side lock adjuster tool, and a carrier bearing puller. Mine has just over 170k on it and its showing its age, its been leaking out of the pinion shaft seal for about a year and the drivers side axle seal since I've owned the truck. Anyways its been making lots and lots of noise and gotten bad enough in the past six months or so that it was way overdue for a rebuild so out it came... After the differential was on the floor, I decided to pull it apart of course, this is the part I forgot to take pics because my hands got covered in gear oil. So I'll walk you through it, first drain the oil, next pop the passenger side long axle shaft out with some taps from a hammer. It should pop right out, then remove the bolts holding the extension housing onto the axle, next turn over the axle and pop out the driver side axle shaft with a pry bar or tap it out either way should work. Then remove the bolts holding the case halfs together. The case has two dowel pins which lock it together so to separate the half you have to carefully tap it apart, do not try and pry in the sealing areas unless you want a leak. Once separated you will see the carrier with the ring gear and such. Go ahead and pull the carrier and put it on a work bench. My friend and I first started by using a carrier bearing puller to remove the old carrier bearings. Here you can see how trashed the rollers where on mine and the entire bearing was super super loose. After the carrier bearings are removed with the puller, go ahead and reinstall the new ones onto the carrier assembly. Once installed place this to the side in a clean area. Next pop out the side locks, on my diff the drivers side side lock tab was broken off and the adjuster was free to adjust as it felt which is not good!! This should also pop out the bearing races for the carrier bearings. After you get those out, we can move to the pinion. This is a little more tricky, impact gun off the nut holding on the yoke, then use a puller of your choice to pull the yoke off, then pop out the pinion shaft with a hammer (I think that is what we did at least), once the pinion shaft is removed use a brass punch or a large socket to remove the bearing races. We found these to be really stuck into the case and it took a lot of careful hammering on them to get them to come out. Once removed install the new races for the pinion bearings. This is where the bearing splitter comes into play, install it under the bearing that is left on the pinion shaft and take the setup over to the press. Use the press to press off the bearing on the pinion shaft its pretty straight forward. We used the press again to reinstall the new bearing onto the pinion shaft by dismantling the old bearing of its rollers and outer case to make a nice piece to press the new bearing back onto the shaft. Now you can put the pinion shaft back into the case so that the pressed on bearing is into the new race. Then install a new crush sleeve and install the outer bearing. Install a new pinion seal and make sure the grooves of the area of the yoke splines is clean and free of pipe thread sealant and apply new thread sealant onto the splines. Now install the yoke, washer and nut and snug it down. Next you need to crush the crush sleeve. Use an impact to tighten the nut down in increments and an inch lb gauge to feel the resistance of the spinning of the pinion shaft. You want to achieve 20 in lbs when spinning the pinion with nothing else touching it. Now install the new side lock tabs, reset the lock adjusters, and install the new carrier bearing races into the case halfs. Install the carrier unit with the new bearings into the pinion side case half. Next make sure you case half sealing surfaces are clean and apply a new bead of GM sealant (the red stuff) and put the case halfs back together and bolt them down. This is where the fun begins use the side lock adjusters to set up the lash, it is done by feel on these differentials and by adjusting the side locks you move the ring gear in closer or farther away from the pinion. You want to get this setup just right if not you will wear out the ring and pinion very quick. When you are done adjusting it you want to feel almost no play when spinning the yoke to turn the differential just a very slight bit of a "clunk" just barely. When set correctly you should end up with about 30 in lbs with everything setup correctly. We ended up with 25 in lbs with just the pinion installed and 35 in lbs with everything back together which we where happy with. Finally install the new driver side axle seal and axle shaft, install the extension housing with the GM red sealant and the new passenger axle shaft seal and finally the passenger side axle shaft goes back in. Congrats if you followed by long story of how to rebuild the front differential in your SS you will end up with a great working differential that will make no noise as you drive down the road and turn in parking lots! I am really glad I finally got to do this to my truck it makes it feel like driving a new truck again. I also installed new rear window arms from ebay that pull the windows in more so they seal up better and eliminate the wind noise issue, totally worth it! Good luck if you attempt this rebuild and make sure you have all the parts and tools on hand! This is the side lock adjuster we used.

Welcome to the site, make sure to post up some pics!

First off welcome to the site and good luck with your project! The 149 does have a speed sensor which should connect to your harness but you could always change the end connector. The transfer case to get would be from a 01-02 Gmc Denali SUV or a 01-06 Denali truck, and of course 03-05 Silverado SS. Don't get a transfer case from a 03-06 Escalade or Denali SUV because they are not the 149 model and instead the electronically controlled Borg Warner AWD case. Hopefully that helps!

This link has the part number, should be 15197873 http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OEM-2003-2006-Chevrolet-Silverado-SS-Tailgate-Molding-Upper-Cladding-/130988575847?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ASilverado+1500|Submodel%3ASS&hash=item1e7f870c67&vxp=mtr

Check the belt, make sure the power steering pump is turning and check the power steering pressure and return lines going to the steering box. Also check and make sure you have power steering fluid. Just some basic ideas of potential problem you could have.

Welcome to the site! Post up some pics when you get a chance!

Sounds like your right on with your estimates for parts. If you can repair and replace the parts yourself you can definitely save some money instead of paying a shop, also you might be able to get a discount on the paint job if you have the truck prepped for paint before bringing it in by removing parts.

To remove the cladding underneath of it are small push in style clips that can be removed with a flat screw driver or needle nose pliers. There are also two phillips head screws underneath to remove. The top is attached with double sided 3M foam tape. A perfect replacement upper tape is 3M part number 06382, which can be found at your local auto body supply shop or Napa paint store if you have something like that. The tape is 1/2" wide and comes as a 20 yard roll. I used this to reattach my driver door cladding when it started to come lose.

Awesome write up, definitely worth the work to clean up the lines on the front end. Now I want to do this to my truck whenever I get around to repainting my front bumper, grill and mirror caps I will do this mod when I reinstall. Great work, looks awesome!

Looks like its in pretty good shape for the miles! I have seen much worse shape with way less miles....

Yes just reuse your factory brake hose to the caliper if that is what your refering to or swap to aftermarket stainless lines. I kept the original brake hoses and with just the caliper upgrade it feels much less spongy than before and the braking is more accurate in my opinion.