Mykk

Damn, I want an RST wing. Bad

Damn, I want an RST wing. Bad

After playing with computer tunes without making very much progress and a ton of drivability problems... I decided to change computers & operating systems. And well... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VHlK5-K4Bdo Cheers ~Mykk

your truck: 2004 Silverado 1500 2wd W/T engine size: 357ci old kool small block chevy camshaft: LT4 Hot Cam & 1.6RR's .525"/.525" 218/228 112 cylinder heads: Bowl hogged, gasket matched, P&P - 906 Vortec heads pullies: March underdrive intake system: L31 fuel injection; CFM-Tech throttlebody - K&N FIPK exhaust system: Hooker long tubes, catless 2.5" Y-pipe, single 3" mandrel bent w/ Flowmaster Super 40 pcm modification: 0411 PCM with a '02 G-van 5.7L tune, modified by HPTuners anything else i'm missing guys? 100hp wet shot NOS, 3200 stall converter, 4:10 rear gears

Hello Everyone, here is how I did my reverse tilt hood. Most guys who do a "suicide" hood on their trucks use Buick LeSabre hinges, I didn't like the way they looked while open and how the hinges were highly visible. So instead I used a Universal kit made by AutoLoc, part # TILTHD $128.69 from Summit. Step 1) mount the hinge pads to the radiator support. Mock up the entire assembly and lay it over the engine how it would sit while mounted Mark where the mounting pads bolt holes will go on the radiator support & drill them out I originally intended to weld the plates in place, but found that the radiator support is aluminum and the plates are powder coated steel. So a couple bolts in each plate will do. Step 2) mock up the assembly again with the plates bolted down to the radiator support. Close the hood of your truck untill you can barely sneak in a arm and mark where the assemblies mounting points line up on the hoods support braces. Pull the hood off and set on a padded work stand & lay the hinge assembly down on the hood lined up to your scribe marks. Drill through the hoods support skelton using the holes on the hinge brace as a guide in order to get a few bolts in to hold the hinge brace to the hood. The front mounting pads on the hinge brace line up with the hoods support skeleton yet the rears do not, so I used a piece of aluminum stock to connect the two rear mounting pads together and mounted the aluminum to the center of the hoods support skeleton. Step 3) Take the trucks original shouldered bolt that was the OE hinge, and bolt it onto the bracket on the cowl. Using a cut off wheel or sawzaw, cut a notch on the hoods side of the OE hinge The OE hinge is now the hood catch, disregard the hood lift spring. Step 4) Put the hood back on, with the notched hood hinge resting on the shouldered bolts. Slowly lower the hood and line up the eyelits on the hinge brace to the mounts bolted to the radiator support and insert a couple 3/8" bolts through the eyelits & mounts Now lift up & pull forward on the front of the hood, the notched piece on the hood will slide off of the shouldered bolt. Now lift from the rear of the hood and be sure to have a hood prop ready. I used a long screw driver. And there is your reverse tilt "Suicide" hood To open the hood: pop the hood release as normal and undo the manual catch on the front. lift up/forward. than grab a rear corner of the hood and pull upward To close. Set the rear of the hood down on the cabs cowl. While directly in front of the truck, in one motion push the hood away from you. It will slide, the notched hood piece will catch on the shouldered bolt and the hood latch will grab the hook on the front of the hood and keep closed. Some questions that come up: Q) Is that as far is it opens? A) Yes, any further the front of the hood will interfere with the grill Q) Isn't it now a major pain in the ass to do any work on the engine. A) Not as bad as it looks, in some ways it's easier to do a few things, like spark plugs. Any major work to be done the entire hood comes off with two 3/8" bolts. Cheers ~Mykk

Here ya go http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=48873

The Engine swap: Spliced on the V8 injector plug-in and re-pinned the PCM plug-in for the V8 Had a 2800-3200rpm stall locking torque converter made for this swap (on the left) For the motor mounts I used SBC to LSx adapter plates and GMT800 5.3L motor mounts And than I had the truck towed to my shop to make the new Y-pipe and index the distributor/set timing This swap is still a work in progress, I've been battling alot of hurdles on this one. Including a leaking intake manifold, exhaust leaks, a friends shop who put the injectors into the wrong cylinders on the new intake manifold, Computer tuning/compatabilty and a couple valves set too tight on assembly... but despite all of that it fired up and ran. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Te2pMk7JkU Cheers ~Mykk

Hello Everyone, I would like to share with you the build & swap of a Small Block Chevy into my 2004 Silverado.The number one question...Why? 1) The engine block fell in my lap for free as a freshly re-built freshly blown up 350 core, I worked in a machine shop/parts store and did all of the labo & work. The Vortec heads & L31 fuel injection were also free. 2) All of the performance parts & accessory drive serp set up from the original 4.3L V6 transfered right onto the SBC. 3) For the exception of a few parts, the SBC was a direct bolt in. 4) I wanted to do something different in my truck, and the way the engine came upon me it was almost like the decision was made for me. 5) I like the low end torque of the SBC compared to LSx engines, which makes sense in a truck. 6) The Mexican 400ss Silverado is a GMT800 with a L31 350 7) There aren't smog checks where I liveAnd despite what I've said and what I've done to my ride let me know what you think!I'll let the pics do most of the talking from here...Four bolt mains, one piece rear, roller cam block Vortec 906 heads, Vortec L31 fuel injection Bored .040 over, ring scuff turned out LT4 Hot Cam.525"/.525"218/228112 ZZ4 take out, Forged crank & rods balanced with a new Flex & dampener H345NCP-40 pistons sit .004" in the hole. .039" gasket compress thickness, .043" quench height. 10.2-1 Compression with the Vortec 64cc chambered heads geardrive for a little added noise along with the exhaust note Blasted the heads, bowl hogged, gasket matched, drilled out the pushrod holes, pinned the studs and a mild P&P 1.6 ratio aluminum roller rockers, Comp beehive springs, Comp hardened pushrods Ugraded vortec fuel spider

Hello Everyone, My name is Mykk, I am from Prescott Az and this is my daily driver. I know it's not an SS and not really a clone. I just built it the way I wanted and to drive something a little different. The engine I built in my shop. It is a Vortec headed SBC fed by L31 fuel injection, LT4 Hot Cam - 1.6 RR's, geardrive and hours of port & polish, bowl hog, & gasket match work. the truck had a LU3 4.3L v6 from the factory Cheers ~Mykk