benjaminh2

its bulldog heaven on here! sweet! i love the wrinkles he's got on his legs, lol.

thanks keith! happy to help out bro

lol. great comment about tank in the pet topic mike. i laughed for a couple minutes

replace the evap vent solenoid. its sticking open, not allowing the purge solenoid to pull a vacum on the system. i've done a ton of em.

my record time is 50 min. i can have em out before the converter cools down enough to touch without gloves on.

my vote is for a bulldog, i do have to wipe Tanks butt and i really don't mind. its like having a kid so whats the diff. that pic of hanks bulldog cracks me up lol. just do your homework thats all, and whatever you decide on will be cool. heres a couple of him as a puppy, and one fairly recent.

if 3 gears work perfect, then you know its not a line pressure issue, or a converter problem. time to take it out,tear it down, and see what failed...

is there a def plan yet?

i know from experience that when the IPC and/or radio are replaced, and not programmed correctly it will cause odd/unexplainable problems like this. its possible that it happened to the previous owner, and lucky you, you get to deal with it. i know most of you guys hate or don't trust the ''stealership", however, usually they are our last hope when it comes to stuff like this. if it was my truck, first thing i would do is reprogram the radio and cluster.

and this condition just started outa the blue? had any other work done recently?

there's British BeerWorks in Framingham... thats only 15min from the 95/128 area...

this is a base estimate on labor only at 60.00 an hour. replace camshaft 780.00 remove trans, replace converter, and install shift kit, 660.00 and in my opinion, 3200 is way to high a stall speed for that truck especially if you're not rebuilding the unit and upgrading the cooler while its out. 2400 or maybe 2600 tops, and even then, a cooler upgrade is a MUST.

if you havn't set preload and backlash on a ring and pinion before then don't tackle the front bearings. the only bearings serviceable with the front diff still in the vehicle are the axle bearings, witch typically never go bad. the bearings that go bad in these diffs are the carrier and pinion bearings, to service these the front diff must be removed.

shuan let me know what night and where, once you finalize that, i can adjust my schedule accordingly.

i don't know why so many of you guys are afraid to have your front diffs rebuilt. they are extremely simple to remove and any knowlegeable drivetrain shop could have one built in a morning. 6 bearings total, 2 lock tabs, and 3 seals, parts from GM are under 200 bucks. the problem with these diffs is that the lock tabs for the preload and backlash adjusters break causing the adjuster to back off, resulting in chewed up bearings and races, easily repairable. the electrical connector in the diff pictured is for the actuator, and absolutely will not work in an SS.

sounds like you were on the right track when you cleaned the sensor mounting surface, prob just didnt file it down enough. the abs is activating cause its loosing one or both of the front wheel speed signals, usually caused by rust buildup between the sensor and the hub. i use a small flat fie to remove all rust and pitting.

just got mine in, i'd like to thank ray for all the time and money he invested in this project. you won't find a better quality piece anywhere.

that new TAC module is gonna have to be programed. see your local dealer, they usually bill an hours labor for programming, so the price will range between 80-100 bucks probably.

i've never installed meth and nos on the same motor. i suspect it can be done. methanol does have some drawbacks on a daily driver, like, when tuning a motor with meth the methanol makes up about 25% of your overall fuel charge, this allows you to run on average 6-8 degrees of additional timing advance. therefore its very important to run a bulletproof methanol pump, cause if it fails your left with an extremely lean motor with to much timing...this = motor rebuild/replace. my tuner just finished an 850 horse supercharged vette with methanol, the methanol pump died on the original motor and it blew up on the dyno seconds after the pump failed. but overall i think methanol has more pros than cons.

"methanol" injection, ideally, is a 50/50 mix of methanol and distilled water, straight washer fluid can be subsistuted, but most tuners dont recomend it. methanol is extremely combustive and the water is used to cool the intake charge to prevent predetonation, thats why its popular on forced induction motors. it can be used on na motors as well.

payment sent!

you're in luck,there's already a magna charger available for the G8 too!

have a great trip mike! bring back some sunny weather with ya, lol.

I need to recant my previous statement. i pulled up the vehicle build info on my truck.... im ashamed to say i was completly wrong they are built with 4:10 gearing. i appologize, i'm an idiot, ect. ect.

the awd ss def. does NOT have 4:10 gearing, they'd be kneck breakers outa the hole if they did, witch could be a good thing. 3:73 was the production ratio used in the awd. just a friendly correction