benjaminh2

it could be a bad gas cap, more than likely it needs a evap vent soleniod. the solenoid sticks partially open mimiking a leaky gas cap. it would have to smoke tested at a dealership or qualified repair garage to know for sure though.

I've got mcgaughys 2" drop spindles up front and 3" shackles in the back, couldnt be happier

1. raise the rear of the truck and secure with jackstands under the axle. 2. disconnect shift linkage at trans (it just pops off with a screwdriver) and shift truck into neutral. make sure front wheels are chocked to prevent truck rolling away. 3. remove all 13mm rear diff cover bolts and let diff drain 4. remove wheels, calipers, rotors. 5. spin rear diff, untill the diff pin bolt is facing you, and remove it (8mm) 6. remove pin, push each axle in untill the c-clip falls out, i usually stick a small magnet in there to grab the clips 7. slide out axles, remove old axle seals, unhook old e-brake cables. i usually brake the old cable retainers with a hammer, its faster/easier. 8. unbolt old backing plates (18mm) and remove. 9. reinstall everything in reverse order. this is important, make sure you get "loaded" backing plates, they come with new e-brake shoes.

lmoa

for future reference, you wont loose t-case fluid when pulling out the front driveshaft. the quickest way to get these pans off, unbolt the tranny mount (2 15mm nuts in the center of the crossmember) then jack up t-case an inch, pan comes right out.

your experiencing low speed abs activation, correct? abs is coming on at under 10mph, usually worse if turning while braking. its caused from an increased air gap between the wheel speed sensor and reluctor wheel, rust builds up between the sensor and the face of the hub where the sensor mounts. the result is loss of wheel speed signal to the ebcm, the ebcm, in turn, activates the abs because it thinks the wheel is locked up.

Damm you miss piggy, damm you!!!!!!!!!!

"After basic math an oem 2 piston caliper has more clamping force than a fixed vette 4 piston"? i doubt it. talk to the guys that have em installed already and rave about how great they are. very few of us have an unlimited budget, price out brembos and wilwood kits for over 6k, and this vette setup is def the way to go.

volant cai for sale, needs a new filter. pm for pics, 75 bucks + shipping. sold

mr. P, i'm ready for one

at least paint the damm thing black, christ

when these water pumps leak, they almost never leak out the front seal like the old 5.7 used to, therefore you wont get any coolant slinging out and onto the serp belt. they usually leak where they seal against the block, and coolant runs down the front timing cover and onto the front of the oil pan. that grurgling sound you're hearing from the dash is just coolant cavitation in the heater core,its normal, don't worry about it.

he's awsome!!! good luck dude!!

too each his own, but, i would rather loose a testicle than watch baseball

mines droped with mcgaughys spindles in front, and a 3" shackle kit in the rear. absolutely no vibration at all, and it hasnt been shimmed either. maybe the shims you installed werent needed....?

i'm assuming you had the tank out to replace the fuel pump when you did your Radix install. double check all your evap lines at the tank, and motor. basically whats happening is the pcm is seeing a minor evap leak, and for some reason on these trucks they'll display that tighten gas cap message instead of setting an evap code, for a while anyways. (po442,446,455,ect.) its probably something minor like a line not plugged on all the way.

i use the titanium IR 1/2 gun, i forget the model number, but its 1000ft lbs of torque in reverse it'll break off 1/2 wheel studs if your not carefull it was a little over 300 bucks though...

does anyone anywhere have the brackets to run the z06 rear calipers on the rear of our trucks yet? i have 2 shiny new 4 piston calipers that are begging to be installed

i'd be interested in doing it next month for sure....

christ thats annoying! i think i'd probably strangle her

most tranny shops will prob run around 1500 to 1800 to freshen up, and lightly mod a still running unit. in my opinion this isnt the spot to cheap out. my moto, do it once, do it right.

don't forget to replace the crush sleeve on the pinion as well, and always install new lock tabs for the carrier adjusters. for you guys doing it yourself here are backlash/preload specs from GM. Backlash: .005-.007 Pinoin preload: 30 lb in. Total pinion and carrier preload: 55lb in

the only way 4" exhaust is gonna help you make power, is if you're running 40lbs of boost.

fact: the majority of engine wear occurs on cold start. so why run a thicker oil thats gonna take longer to reach moving parts? run what the manual calls for unless your wot through the mojave, imo. m1 5-30

i'm ready when you you are Jesse