benjaminh2

save yourself a bunch of time and money, and just get your trans rebuilt. imo

That amount of metal on the magnet looks a bit excessive. i'd tear it appart and inspect all the bearings and races, theres a prob somewhere, especially if you've got a noise.

contact NewEngland Dyno. theyre located in ct. and they know their stuff. pm me for a phone number

the fluid pressure manifold is a prob on these transmissions, sediment gets deposited on the switch contacts and can cause all sorts of shift timing issues. its easilly acessible with the pan off, just to the right of the filter, attaches with 3 10mm bolts, and 2 8mm bolts, has a flat 5 or 6 pin elec connection.

the wheel bearing is the hub....

when Farrah died and went to heaven, god granted her one wish, that the children of the world be safe, so he killed Micheal Jackson.

go back and ask to speak to the service manager, if he blows you off, get the number for customer assistance and call GM. the bottom line is, you shouldnt have to "live with" any kind of noise ect that wasnt there when you bought the truck. i spent years fixing annoying squeeks and rattles for GM, lol.

rained out again wtf

tank and i will be there

yup, no problem.just gonna need a long thin pair of snap ring pliers. be prepared to get covered in tranny fluid

i never liked the idea of the turned down output shaft. well done dude, great product

everyones invited up to you if you wanna make the drive or not. by way of an update, no cruise night tonight, friggin weather has screwed us again for the 3rd week in a row. also pm me and/or call me before you come down, we're prob gonna just do it once a month through the entire summer, every friday gets to be too much. i'l continue to post updates. thanks for showing interest guys hope fully the weather cooperates next week. Ben.

i could be wrong, but i think you need straight argon gas in your mig when you weld stainless. alot of people use a blend of argon and another inert gas (co2 possibly...) normally...

i agree, sounds like a good price. depending on hard parts needed, i usually start around 1500 for a rebuild...

the chains hold up pretty good in these things generally, your best bet is an oem one from Gm. a hardened one would be nice as MrP. stated, but i dunno where youd find one...

not many issues here in ma., but we're only 45min from GMs huge warehouse in boston. i'm sure it wont be long before it hits us though.

def grab it! it'd be great practice for ya if you wanna learn how to build.

i'm in.

glad i could help bro!

for any of you mass guys interested, Eastcoast KustmRydz and myself, are hosting a cruise night here in worcester every friday night (weather permitting) from 6-9pm. we have everything from old school muscle, to exotics and riced out low riders. Seamless Custom will also be there for anyone that wants some ideas, or an estimate on custom interior work. pm me for directions.

Dan!!!!! always there to instagate awd grass donuts, lol.

i know shell and chevron are on GMs list of approved top tier fuels to use. not many chevrons here in the northeast, so shell is the best option for us. its hard to say what affect these additives have on a motor, the idea is to prevent carbon deposits on valve stems and pistons, and allegedly help with lean misfires that GM had such a prob with. i've used a lucas fuel additive about once a month since new, and the idle quality in my truck is better than almost all the 6.0 k trucks that i service. i agree with the other guys, i wasnt the cause of your op failure. edit: keep in mind too, who knows whats lurking in a gas stations in ground tanks, water, sediment, i'm sure all kinds of crap. so it may not nessacarily be the brand of fuel, but also the station itself.

Perfect time to do Mr.P's trans cooler upgrade