benjaminh2

pull the pass door panel off, take down the water barrier, find the door lock actuator plug. its just a 2 wire connector and i believe its on the bottom of the latch assembly. put a test light or a multi meter across the 2 terminals and watch for voltage when you actuate the door locks. if you have voltage, then the actuator is bad. if i remember correctly, the pwr door locks are a bcm function, thats why the pwr door locks fuse is empty.

looks like i'll keep it for a spare.

what are they charging to ship it? i bought it as a gm employee for 240 and some change, figured it would cost 25 or so to ship it, as it is fairly heavy, thats how i arrived at my price.

where did the short end up being?

looks great shuan! not bad for a cop ....lol

the box is unopened, id kinda like to keep it that way unless its a deal breaker... but its the entire hub/bearing assy with about 3ft of abs harness attached. the above pic is what you'd get. i got that image off google.

thats less than employee price. lucky you.

you can get aftermarket ones for a lot less i agree, however, i only buy GM parts when repairing my truck. dealer price on this hub is 411.90.

i have a new in the box GM front wheel bearing assy part# 15233113. comes with ABS harness attached. contact your local dealer for fitment. 275 shipped.

i think this will be our biggest turn-out yet, siiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiick!!!!!!!!!! shuan, i'm gonna bring beef for the grill fyi.

as strange as it seems, the brakes on our trucks last way longer if the truck is driven. i've seen trucks 4-5 yrs old, with 8-100k on original pads n rotors. however i've also seen 4-5yr old trucks with under 10k need pads and rotors replaced front and rear. and the rears usually go first fyi. sounds like its time for a big brake upgrade

because of rain the show has been moved to sunday 9/13/09. all are welcome

its def not the front pinion angle thats off. the front diff is bolted to the frame and never moves in relation to the t-case. i have the same vibration in mine after a 2-2 drop, but havn't had time to investigate the cause.

bump for time. rain date is sunday. get there early, its gonna be packed!

be carefull when just replacing parts on a higher mileage unit. sediment deposits can cause big/repeat problems. good luck

reservations are all made. Shuan, you and your wife may need to take tank for the night....i'm sure you wont mind!

put me on the list

It's that time again, for our 4th annual car, truck, and bike show!!! You definately don't wanna miss this event, mark your calendars now!

tank and i are a def this time. don't care when shuan, pick a weekend and i'll plan accordingly

ignition switch.

Any time a battery tester says anything other than "good battery", replace the battery. batteries these days are absolute junk.

My condolences.

nice job! looks good

fuel pumps rarely "act up". they just stop working. a more likely suspect would be something in the fuel pump control circut, such as a relay, maybe corrosion or a loose connector. or, as you mentioned, the pcm itself. be sure to check all major grounds, g110 is located on the drivers side body mount just behind the front tire. take both of those ground cables off and clean any corrosion off the terminal and the frame, cover em in dielectric grease and reinstall em nice and tight. that ground used to be the cause of numerous electrical gremlins.

to locate the source of the noise, run it in gear up on a lift. use a stethascope to pinpoint where the noise is loudest. i've used this method for years, hasnt failed me yet.