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Everything posted by IndySilveradoSS

  1. I watched and wish they would've finished it. Anybody who knows anything about these trucks knows its not a question of IF you should save them.. You save them.. imo
  2. Have all LED lights and recently I have had an issue with my passenger side turn signal light staying solid while A-My headlights are on, and B-when I have my fogs on. It functions normally when the lights are off during the day. It was an intermittent issue at first, but now just stays solid. Any help or direction is appreciated.
  3. **Update Well, since the last update I had the transfer case input shaft stripe out, so I swapped in a used unit. Also lost a pair of u joints in the front causing damage to the driveshaft, smashed header tubes, oil filter etc.. Replaced the u joints only to see them fail (that's what I get for buying AZ sh*t). Had new driveshaft made with spicer U joints. Ended up cracking the passenger axle tube in the process, so I ended up with a front diff from a denali, so at least I can rebuild that one to have a spare..Also did new brakes all the way around, and upgraded the front to the Tahoe brakes, haven't noticed much difference honestly yet, will prob replace all the brake lines in a few months.
  4. I don't think you can swap transfer cases unless you go to a manual shift 4x4 case for a quasi 2wd truck. As far as trans, you can swap in the 80E which is the best trans you can run, which you will need an new gear that Time2Kill sells on here,
  5. **Update.. This weekend the truck developed a nasty vibration upon acceleration, but went away if I set my cruise or stayed under 30MPH.. I'm guessing CV joints aren't happy. Will probably turn the torsion bars back up a bit to alleviate some of that..or 1" spacers...PITA
  6. I just lowered mine 3" in front and 4" in rear.. 4" definitely needs a C notch and helper bags. 2" should be fine. Look at Mcgaughys helper bags, that's the route I'm going.
  7. So i recently dropped my truck with DJM 3" Lower Arms, and a 4" Shackle/Hanger kit in back.. with DJM shocks in the 4 corners and energy suspension leaf and sway bar bushings. 16 Years of midwest winters really screwed the bolts on my truck..lots of cutting and cussing..lol Anyway, put it all back together and drove it and it was fine, bottomed out a bit over bumps, but drove great other than that. Then filled my gas tank without thinking of the extra weight..That's when my problems started. Thought possibly the U joints may have been going out since they were probably the originals (190K) but it sounded more metal-ish. On my way home from my sons baseball practice, and the drive shaft let go, making the most god awful sound as it bounced from the ground to the floor board and back around again.. Long story short, the aluminum drive shafts are sh*t and rubbing on the cross member will leave you broken. ?, getting a new 3.5" Steel one made now, and will have to C-Notch and probably install helper bags. But it looks good.
  8. Is there much difference in the ebay truck bed sides and the GM ones? I know th eGM will be higher quality, but didn't know if I could get away with the Ebay ones
  9. Looks great! Mine is the same shape as yours was, love seeing the transformation, gives me motivation for mine..lol
  10. Look at some of the ridetech shocks.. they are top of the line and are salty, but they are also badass. I'm going to try the calmax shocks on mine when I install the lowering kit on mine
  11. you can also take a turkey injector, fit a piece of hose over it and the top of the and cycle the injector and push fluid through that way also..Removes more of the junk inside
  12. https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-03-07-Chevy-Silverado-LED-DRL-Black-Housing-Amber-Headlights-Bumper-Lamps/372825319151?hash=item56ce1ee6ef:g:ZXoAAOSw6VVesiqC
  13. Yeah you’ll be fine. I’m running Braided from there to the cooler.. I think it looks better than the factory lines. Also doing my trans cooler lines in braided too
  14. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-ls0012erl?cm_mmc=ppc-google-_-search-_-brands-_-keyword&gclid=Cj0KCQjwn7j2BRDrARIsAHJkxmwOoRCbAQE1r5K0EhLyrc02ZAY_DN99_O2-YhHEGWwCmSMM1B6WtGoaAspEEALw_wcB
  15. Earls makes a billet plate that bolts to the engine and has male AN Line ends you can use to run line to the radiator. You will need to get adapters to go from the radiator line to AN.
  16. I'm in the same boat, being a Indiana truck mine has a rusty bed sides (just above the arches) cab corners and rockers, plus the pass fender has bubbles forming and the shitty GM clear coat peeling. I picked up a red fender at the junkyard, and am hunting either good bedsides at the yard, or will buy a new bed. I'm going to restore mine as it's my daily and I just love these trucks. I don't see them everyday on the road like newer trucks or just plain silverados. My wife (who hates my automotive addiction) mentioned this weekend I should just get a new truck..lol.. She was shocked I said no thanks..
  17. The post on FB says Raceline billets..
  18. Not with a heater core luckily, but it's not too bad to pull the dash out. I had to replace an blend door actuator last spring. Only took 30 min or so to remove the dash
  19. Best bet is to buy a set of morimoto mini h1's and do it right. I did mine a year ago and will never go back to halogens
  20. Not with the 3/8 impact, but I just got the M12 1/2 drive, and it's legit badass. All my power tools are milwaukee fuels
  21. that is funny guys! thanks for the support
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