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forbord5811 last won the day on March 20 2015

forbord5811 had the most liked content!

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17 Good

About forbord5811

  • Rank
    SSGT USMC (Retired)
  • Birthday March 10

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Previous Fields

  • Owns
  • Silverado SS/VHO/TrailBlazerSS Color
  • SS/VHO/TrailBlazerSS Year
  • Drivetrain Config
  • Build Date/TPW
  • Delivering Dealership
    Jeff Gordon Chevrolet, NC
  • Delivery Date
    March 2004
  • Modifications
    Look at my Sig.

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  1. forbord5811

    Looking for a good x pipe for my ss

    This is a little late. I started with Gibson headers, to e-cutouts and a cat delete with true split exhaust and two Magnaflow mufflers and it sound good and like a Nascar when you hammer down with cuts open but quiet when you cruise. The only problem I had was that the true duals kept bouncing back and fourth with the drown due to being unequal pressure. I then installed a 3" Magnaflow xpipe and she quieted down just a tad and made the exhaust equal pressure and sounds amazing now with no drone and banks battling.
  2. forbord5811

    Magnuson pulley change

    Me personally. I would put on the next one up from the lowest pulley you can put on for max boost and tune it from there. If its a radix SC instead of a 2.75 go with a 2.8 and tune it there so you don't have to continue to get retunes every time you want a power increase. I also us my tow haul button as a performance bump for racing.
  3. forbord5811

    Man this place is dead!

    I pop in every now and again. My truck is a time capsule not to be opened until I die LOL. I've done quite a few things and made a few mistakes along the way as well. But as it sits it is real fun to drive. Since I don't show up a lot if anyone has any questions just message me and I will see it in my email. It is always fun to talk SSS with someone. I still get people asking if its new and they are surprised when I say its an 03' with 57k. Which just turned this summer. I've put maybe 7k on it in 11 years.
  4. forbord5811

    Looking for a good x pipe for my ss

    Agree ^
  5. forbord5811

    Steps to supercharging an 03 SS

    Honestly as far as the transfer case goes, it will handle more than you plan to put into. I wouldn't worry about it until you start hitting 800-1000hp. The only problem that is common is the bearing wearing through the case on a few trucks. I cant remember the exact fix but it wasn't much. As far as everything else I agree with a T/A cover and such. I have 4:56 gears and my front diff is doing great still. But keep in mind my truck is not a DD by far so I cant help much beyond what I have read and talked about through out the years on this forum.
  6. forbord5811

    Cam/Headers/Efan Suggestions

    I agree with monster on the stall and pushrods. Efans you can pick up cheap at a salvage yard from a grand prix or anything with dual fans in those years. I paid $100 for mine and just had to use a relay and wire it to the PCM. The stall and beefing up the tranny should be a big priority as this heavy truck will only benefit from that. Remember Horsepower is addicting so always leave room to grow. You don't want to be swapping out parts later that you can use now.
  7. forbord5811


    Congrats brother... That's why I would never sell the SSS. I would regret it and buy another and it is becoming more and more rare to find one with less than 60k let alone under 100k... I am lucky enough to only have 56k on mine still and zero rust anywhere...
  8. forbord5811

    damn she is sooo fine!! FREE DROOLS!

    Lovin it.
  9. forbord5811

    Who still love there SSS !!

    I don't ever have plans on selling the truck since it is paid off and I have more money and time into it than it is worth now LOL... I will be off and on here until the last SSS is on the road and hopefully it will be mine still.
  10. forbord5811

    Who still love there SSS !!

    Still love mine but rarely drive it. 56K and still runs strong. Needs new brakes now and I wouldn't mind building more Hp. Gotta compete with all these new vehicles coming out.
  11. forbord5811

    Nitrous on stock ss silverado

    Yes many have done it. The motor should handle a 100-150 wet shot reliably if done properly. The transmission will need a shift kit and servo upgrade, minimum to lengthen the longevity because the 4l65E is a great stock setup but once you add power adders its not if but when the tranny will go out.
  12. forbord5811

    Radix MP112 Fitment??

    Different fuel system too. 2003 was a return style fuel system.
  13. forbord5811

    MID12sSSS TVS2300 370 build

    Sad day if you sell her. I think we all have thought about it at one time or another. I've owned mine since 2005 and now I have too much into it to sell it. You usually never get what you have into it. So you got lucky to have someone that serious to pay for the mods. GLWS bud!
  14. forbord5811

    2003 Silverado SS

    That mechanic is either A. trying to scam you into spending more money on the truck or B shouldn't be working on vehicles if he really thinks you have to change the radiator to put in efans. I have a 2003 SSS and I got my dual Efans out of a early 2000's model grand Prix from the junk yard. I wired it up myself and used a relay wired into the PCM. Because early model SSS's were clutch fans and all SSS's use the same PCM there is a open plug on the PCM for the efan which you wire up from power supply to relay then to fans and computer. Then you program the computer to run the efans.
  15. forbord5811

    Nearly every O2 Sensor Code & P0101

    There is only 4 O2's 2 pre-cat and 2 post-cat. The rear O2's are not necessary to run and are only used to monitor that your catalytic convertor is working as it should. All four work in conjunction to communicate to your computer (PCM) in order to give you the best fuel economy and performance while being EPA friendly and quite frankly decreases performance and fuel economy to be more environmentally friendly. The catalytic convertor only hurts performance as it is a restriction of airflow but it is a EPA requirement as it sole purpose is to burn un-burnt fuel leaving the engine to keep all the happy tree huggers quiet. The front O2's are the only ones that are required as they take the exhaust straight from the engine before being re-burnt in the cats and tell your computer to adjust fuel trims and AFR in conjunction with your Map sensor and MAF sensor in order to run most efficient. Like I said previous post, old stock cats can cause running problems as the packing deteriorates or bust up or plug up inside the cat causing the rear O2's to send codes. Most of us with performance mods remove them completely and tune them out. If your state doesn't require a state inspection your best bet is to remove them or to replace them with fake straight through ones or just a exhaust pipe section. The tune in itself will be a night and day difference in performance and you will see better gas economy as long as you stay off the skinny pedal... You can get it tuned at any dyno tune shop for $400-$600 or send it in to Zippy, Charlie Wheatley, or Black bear for $250-$350 who are the most common here. They will do just as good if not better than a custom performance Dyno shop especially for light to moderate modified vehicles. We have guys with mail order tunes running 10's in the 1/4mile from the mail tunes. Just do a little research and you will find all the info you need... If you do a mail order tune you need to remove your PCM located just under your alternator next to your battery and is held on by a snap and two bolts holding the pins into the PCM, super easy to remove and mail it to your preferred tuner. Takes 1-2 weeks turn around. If you cant have your truck down for that long they can send you pre-programmed PCM for an additional fee and all you need to do is send them your core. Once they receive your old PCM they will reimburse you the additional fee. YOU WILL NOT BE DISAPPOINTED IN A CUSTOM TUNE!!!! Plus most tuners will give you free or small charge retunes for as long as you own the vehicle in case you ever want to add more go fast parts like superchargers, turbos, or even cams and heads. A stock truck will benefit from a tune but a truck with full exhaust and CAI and other bolt-on's like yours will benefit a lot more, so much you will think its a completely new vehicle. It will run smoother and be twice as responsive all while gaining 2-5mpg more... The more you add the more you will need a tune to get full potential... Here is what I would do if I were you 1st and foremost- If I were you I would get a tune setup. That way you can get the O2's deleted and unlock the true potential of these trucks... 2nd- I would get your truck scanned and find out which O2 is giving you the bad codes. If it is both the rears then I bet the cats are giving out or you are just unlucky and both went out. If the cats are shot I would just cut them out and put in a straight pipe to fill the gap or put in a new high flow cat if your state tests for it and still tune out the rear O2's as they are not needed for running anyways. If it is the front O2's going out you can use the rear O2's and swap them because the rear ones would not be needed when you get tuned. Make sure to have the bung holes welded shut or leave the old unplugged O2's in the holes so no exhaust leaks. 3rd- Id probably get a new exhaust system as that one seems pretty ratty and rusted in spots and may only continue to spring leaks. But if your on a budget at least do a leak test to make sure all the welds and pipes are sealed up as well as the headers. Holes or leaks near the engine/headers or near the O2's will make the O2's read inaccurate also throwing codes. Most exhaust shops can do that for you for a reasonable price, or you can just listen and feel around with your hand for air leaks trying not to burn yourself. Finally- According to your pictures, the cat on the passenger side looks different than the driver side. It may be your problem as it looks like it maybe getting a bit warm due to the discoloration and extra rust which is an indication it could be plugged or not working correctly as compared to the other side. I am not there to look at it or do the test so I could be wrong but it is worth looking into. Another sign you can test at home to see if they may be broke or plugged is after they have been running for awhile they may even glow red hot or much hotter then the other. Try not to burn yourself lol. Also be sure to check especially around the hanger welds as I have seen them break or crack causing leaks. I no longer weld my hangers directly to the pipe due to the welds rusting out overtime. Instead I attach an exhaust clamp to the pipe where I want to weld and weld the hanger to that. No more cracked or bust welds on my pipe . I do like those mufflers as I run similar Magnaflow dual mufflers and they sound beastly under acceleration. Anyways good luck and I hope this helps you find the problems... Get a tune