2003_SuperSport

Some cat nip and milk of magnesium should unclog your cat LMAO ... You can always just sawzall it off and put your new one in and clamp it into place with some exhaust u-bolt clamps... I have a turbo muffler on my 07' Colorado with exhaust clamps and no leakage so far... It would be a temporary fix and you would be able to drive it until you find a shop... With it in place and functional I am sure a shop would be able to weld it up for you as a weld service rather than a cat replacement... If you don't have a sawzall you can just use a hacksaw and buy the clamps from any hardware store...

Most likely unlucky with a weak point in the piston or an error in the tune.... Either way unlucky no matter how you put it

If it is super clean I don't think he is too far off... He is asking top dollar but the miles are low...

I would think it would fit alright... Your best bet is to measure the spacer and just set your blower on the engine block and heads without bolting down and putting the cover on and seeing if their is enough space between blower and cover... I wouldn't think it would be a snug fit because of vibration and rubbing issues and the spacer shouldn't be much more than a half of an inch thick... Just mock it up and check for yourself otherwise if it wont fit just sell the cover...

Those look cool... If you get them post a pic so we can see what they look like on the truck....

Thanks for the clarity . That's just what my frame rate showed on the graph that the stall didn't peak until the truck was at about 5mph... Pretty sure its a slower frame rate or lag from what the truck is doing and what my laptop is recording idk... What I noticed with before my retune that the trans limits were set around the 600's and after my retune they were maxed... Maybe that was the problem with my truck not stalling right in the past...

Two different weapons for two different applications... The 1911 is a fun gun to shoot, reliable, and a great in house self defense gun but a little too heavy for a daily carry and being that it carries 7 rounds in the magazine it is legal in california... The Remington 700 is a great hunting rifle and very reliable being a bolt action, there's a reason our military uses it for one of their primary sniper weapons as it is very reliable and can reach out and touch something at 1000yds in the .308 cal /7.62 Nato... I personally have both and love both of them...

Hahahahahaha... Some people are dazed and confused.... My truck must be a clone with badges LMAO

The biggest things to replace or upgrade are the parts that tend to be the weak link in the trans... The main parts that are a must in making a performance trans are the reaction/sunshell ( get the beast reaction shell from raptor aka PATC), get the billet imput and output shafts, kevelar bands, new high performance clutch packs such as alto red eagle as they hold up to the heat better ( the red eagles claim to hold up to 230' or more heat before they break down), do a transgo reprogramming kit, raptor servos, a good stall converter, replace trans filter... I also added a bottle of lube guard friction modifier to my trans with regular oreily's ATF... Above all else drive it nicely and slowly for 500-1000miles before beating on it so everything gets a chance to break in... This is all I did and my trans has held up very well so far for over 4 years...

The Magnussen supplied inline pump should be plenty for your setup and way easier to install than dropping the tank... With my mods I still run between 55-65 psi from cruising to hot rodding with no dip in pressure yet... One thing to consider if you are going to run a 2.8 or 2.75" pulley on a mp112 is you need something to counter the high IAT's... You will actually loose performance going from 3 to a 2.8" due to high IAT's and your PCM pulling timing... I remember hitting 185-205 IAT's when I went to a 2.8" on a 80-85' day in Minnesota so I couldn't imagine somewhere down south with higher temps... I installed a Meth kit to help with octane as well as bring down my IAT's... Since installing I haven't seen anything above 170' IAT's and a much, much, slower climb in IAT's... The octane alone is worth it in the 50/50 meth mix as it will allow a few more degree's of timing which translate to a few more HP per degree...

I havn't had a problem "YET" with my 65E... My father and I rebuilt it two years ago with a 3000 stall and raptor components... And I by no means drive it nicely all the time, I don't drive it much but when I do I drive it how I built it to drive quick and fast with jack rabbit starts lol... Especially with the shift kit and servos I have in it, if I don't give it a good amount of gas it wont shift cleanly into second... It's all setup how I like it but I am sure I will wreck another tranny one day as I keep adding mods to my truck...

^ This man knows his stuff on NA vehicles, so I'd go with his word...

Most engines run good with a dynamic compression of 7.5-8.5 with a 91 octane or better... I wouldn't run anymore DC than 8.5 on premium pump gas or 11.1 Static compression without a octane assist like methanol injection or a race fuel...

GLWS... $130 is a decent price with shipping for a gold blade ls3... They go for about $150-200 new on ebay, but you need the $230 x-link to make it work

I would love the 90's 454... If I could get a mint one I'd consider selling my SSS... Those 454's have so much potential and are a RCSB like the SSS should have been... But I do love my truck that when I pay it off next summer there would be no point in selling it... Just buying a bigger garage to store all my toys... The wife said if I buy her a 10k ring I can get another hot rod... Although I think 10k is stupid for a stupid diamond ring, I see it as a win win... I get any hot rod I want 40, 50, 60k, 100k and all I need to do is shell out 10k for the wife to approve ha... Or maybe I just drop in a twin turbo 454 and a 4l80e trans and break 10's if not 9's in my SSS

I run the 60# siemen dekas and run about a 60-65% duty cycle at 55-65psi of fuel pressure with my mod list... Duty cycle is the amount of time the injector is open... Once you hit 80% its recommended that you go up in an injector, because at 100% the injector is open 100% of the time and won't allow anymore fuel due to the size... Once you hit 100% you will be risking melt down on your motor as the truck starts running lean... that's why 80% is recommended because it gives you a 20% error and buffer before running out of fuel.. At 147% you would be toasting your motor... 60# injectors if I remember correctly are good for about 800HP... If you are putting those kind of numbers out then yes get bigger injectors... If you are under that you might want to look into your fuel pressure to make sure that is not the problem... Low fuel pressure won't let injectors flow like they should... You can also bump your fuel pressure up a little too which will help injectors perform a little more... Here is a cool little calculator that shows how Fuel pressure and injectors work together- http://www.csgnetwork.com/fiflowcalc.html

If you are looking for new then check this site out...http://www.racetronix.biz/items.asp?Cc=FUELINJ-09&ItemMoveby=0&Nbm=01D034x&Pbm=17113738&iTpStatus=0&Tp=&sTitle=&FromNav=False The prices are good and they have all the info on the injectors needed for proper tuning... They are about $50 on average a piece so $400 total... 80# is a bit high but then again you know what you are running for mods and HP not me...

Check the wire harness to the TB as well and make sure there are no loose prongs... I had REP mode once after I installed my 90mm TB, I checked and rechecked all the wiring and found nothing... Only went REP when it was cold at first startup, I just cleared the code and it ran fine... I put a good charge on the battery overnight and rechecked grounds again and it went away and haven't seen REP in almost a year now... Try checking the TB harness and putting a good overnight charge on the battery...

I've seen worse... I am not totally against clones if done right... In fact I'd love to have a RCSB SSS Clone with my engine in it lol save me some garage space... That avalanche seems to be on the right track, just needs the rest of the cladding and a 3/4 drop...

This is why I don't participate in other truck forums lol... "put cool decals from another car or truck) LMAO... How about buy a cool car or truck that is already cool with the factory decals... lol The only thing I see that may even come close to our forum doing this is that some put the vette decal on their trucks, But!!! the 2003 review of the SSS said it was considered the corvette of pickup trucks hmmmmm..... There is a big difference in putting performance decals on a performance truck or car and putting performance decals on a POS...

You can always add nitrous plus it will help the cooling of our notoriously hot blowers... 75-100 shot will be enough to wreck something in your drivetrain lol... Plus Ray makes a RDS spacer with nitrous ports built in it... At the very least you can get a Meth Kit for under $300 which will decrease IAT's by 20-40' and give you a bump in octane running at 50/50...

Just look at my sig for the go fast parts... With 60lbers I am at a 60-65% duty cycle at WOT, So Yes 60's is all you need... You will need a bigger fuel pump or the supplied magnacharger inline pump at least...

Nice Randy!!! And with a full tank of unleaded, which is even more impressive haha... I kept trying to peer over your steering wheel in the beginning to get a full view but it didn't work lmao....

I only owe 4K left on mine but I am on my second refinance due to some life changes 5-6 years ago... So technically it will be paid off twice in 9 more months.

3000-3600.. With a turbo.... With just a cam alone 3600-4200.... These are just ball park guesses as it all personal preference and drivability. But then again I am not that familiar with turbo setups so I will shut my mouth... If it were a Maggie I can supply you with some first hand experiences...