jlane_87

Are you still looking for a truck? Didn't see anywhere in the posts where you were located, but mine's up for $13,500 with 99,XXX miles in AZ. http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/cto/1609645293.html

$13,500, details and pictures at: http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/cto/1609645293.html

Have a blue 2003 SS for sale in Arizona if anyone is interested or knows anyone looking for one. Here's the craigslist link: http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/cto/1609645293.html

Thank you for the replies. I should have clarified why I need to replace the tire- found a pretty good gash in the tread (can see a tiny bit of one wire of the belts when I pry it open). It still rolls fine- no vibration and stays closed unless I pry it open. But I know its a time bomb waiting to explode at the worst possible time. If I bought a new tire it would have a 14/32 tread depth. The rest of them on the truck are about 10/32 (using an inaccurate means of measurment). My thought was this is close enough to just replace a pair (for matching side to side)

Tried a search on this topic and couldn't really find anything. I have 18k miles on 50k mile tires and don't want to replace all 4 because of 1 bad tire. Has anyone experienced any problems in replacing 2 tires on an AWD? Or only 1? Discount Tire will replace 1 if the tread wear is within 2/32nds of the other tires from what I hear. Anyone with experience in this?

As was said, weather, gas mixture and of course driving habits are big but I had the same problem, all of a suddden I was getting like 4 mpg worse than usual no matter how I drove. So first I took off my washable K&N air filter and cleaned it, cleaned out the intake tube, throttle body, and MAF sensor with quick dry contact cleaner. If any of those things are too dirty it can definately affect mileage. But after doing those things I still didnt see a difference. Started the truck and crawled all under it to make sure there were no exaust clogging issues or anything. So I took the truck to a diagnostic center. They pulled the spark plugs and checked them, checked the wires, ran diagnostics on the fuel curves and all that good stuff and said everything looked good. What a waste of over $100. So I asked them if there was anything else that could possibly be giving me bad mileage if everything else looked good. They said to make sure I was running 5W30 oil and not 10W30 because that could make a difference and to make sure there wasn't too much oil in there either. Wasn't any of those things so they said they could pull fuel filter and check it out. So they did and said it looked like it had never been changed since the truck was new. Now I've only had the truck for about a year, but it was all the way up to about 85,000 miles which can be a long ways on the same filter. So they changed it and my mileage went back up to where it was supposed to be. So if you have tried most of the basic things, change the fuel filter if you haven't done it in a while. The shop told me to do mine once a year to keep it clean. This is easy to do if you have an '03 but a little more difficult on newer ones I think.

I just replaced a set of those I had on my truck. Seemed to grip pretty well. I don't think they last as long as some of the other ones. But thats a trade off alot of times- more grip means less life.

I've been looking for a place here in AZ too, and the only two I have found so far are Pro Dyno and AZ Speed and Marine. Neither have an AWD dyno though. Pro Dyno said they would use a laptop and wideband to tune it, AZ Speed said they sometimes disconnect the front driveline and do it (doesn't sound like thats the best idea to me but whatever). Both about $600. I think when I get mine tuned I might just do a mail order if I cant even get a dyno.

I beat those hemis up and down the street all day long. All I have is intake and exhaust on 03 SS. Extended cabs, regular cabs, with exhaust, intake, doesn't matter. The last one I raced was a 2wd regular cab on 20's with at least exhaust. He spun alot of the line- beat him by a car length with the A/C on full blast haha.

Or do they look like this: http://www.race2win.net/images/cars/05/de06ss.jpg

On the sidebar of your post I see yours is an '06 right? So the webbing in the grille looks different than an 03 I think. Do yours look like this: http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=htt...l%3Den%26sa%3DN

Anyone have a stock bumper grille for an 03? Previous owner ditched it for billet but I like stock better.

Oops nevermind, I didnt see yours was an 06.

The reason I ask is cuz I need the bumper inserts and I was gonna paint them black anyway. You think it would be possible to sand off what they did and repaint it, or is it too messed up?

Ah i see. Hope that works. So you have an extra 2.8 besides the one on your truck? Whats up with that?

Ha ya you're probably right. Did you change idler pulley or belt size?

Do you still have the ones you painted black?

I was just reading in you other post about the dust on the alternator. Sounds like a pain trying to get a smaller pulley to work right. Not sure if I should even mess with that.

Does anyone know a good place for a tune in AZ. Gonna be installing a Radix/tranny soon.

Awesome thanks. I'll have to look up a place here in AZ. Anyone live here and know where to go to get a good tune? All I've heard of is Pro Dyno in the Phoenix area?

Ya I thought stock was more around 1800. Well I was thinkin of buying one of the trannys from one of the businesses on ebay that comes with your choice of converter stall, rebuilt with all the stuff everyone does- vette servos, beast shell, clutch pack, shift kit, etc. Says they're dynoed to 700hp, but I know you never really know from ebay.

I've been saving up and almost have enough for the Radix kit ('03 SS) and was wondering if its safe to run higher boost on a stock block. Like Krambo for example runs the 2.8" pulley for 9psi. I'd love to do the same when I put mine in but didn't know if that greatly shortens the life of the stock block or if anything needs to be done to the block itself so it can take it?

I'll be upgrading my tranny soon along with a converter and had a few questions. I noticed most seem to be running around a 2600-3000 stall, and I was thinking I'll probably go with the lower end of that since its just a daily driver with an occasional run down the track (03 SS with Radix on the way). So my questions are (1) Is there much of a difference you can feel in normal driving with a higher stall, and (2) has anyone noticed any changes in gas mileage with a higher stall? Any input appreciated.

Hm I didn't think there would be a difference, but they've actually all been purchased cd's. I think I'm gonna have to rig up a bracket that bolts the dash kit to the back of the dash to hold it more steady and see if that works.

Maybe I just haven't found a spot where anyone has talked about this yet, but has noone else had any problems with the cd skipping after installing subs? I have an 1800 watt kenwood amp running 2 of those real basic 10" JLs in a sealed box under the back seat. Thats way more power than they need so I even keep it turned way down, but it still makes the cd skip when the subs hit. It skipped a little with the stock head unit, but does it even worse with my Pioneer Premeir head unit that worked fine in my tahoe, which had a way louder system. It seems like the dash kit is the problem because it doesn't hold the head unit very steady (the cd doesn't skip if I push on the head unit real hard), but every dash kit I've seen is exactly the same- 3 screws in the front holding the whole thing up. So maybe the skip protection on the cd player isn't working anymore, but before I buy a new one, has anyone else had skipping issues?