Blown 346

I was waiting inline for food and had to shut the truck off to order. Started it back up and it would almost start then died on me twice and reduced engine power came on and the check engine light. Tried to give it some gas and the damn truck wouldnt move. Had to put it in neutral and park it and let it sit off for a minute. Started it back up with no issue, and it ran fine but still had the light on. here is what I got. P0120 Throttle pedal/position sensor/switch circuit P0650 Malfunction indicator lamp control circuit U0107 Lost communication with Throttle Actuator control module. I cleared them and the truck didnt want to start again, it would fire then die and that was it. Then it started again. So I took the throttle body plug and removed it and cleaned it up and put electrical grease on the plug and plugged it back in. Did it again. I cleared the codes, drove it and it was fine. I have read it could be the throttle body which I hope its not as its far from stock and cheap. Vacuum line, computer. Have no idea where to start. This truck is sucking me dry and I just had to dump money on a new trans for it. Any help would be appreciated. Mike

want these gone. Cant believe i still have them. Pics are ready to be texted.

New wheels listed for sale.

Responded.

Updated list again. Bumper cover assembly is gone, headlights and parking lights are gone. I will be adding a Alpine Double Din with the wiring, steering wheel controls,everything you need.

Correct, your height will stay the same.

This was the stock one,lol. The builder who said he built the trans (I wont say names as he is known here) the old owner spent $5,000 on it to have the best of the best and he only got a shift kit put into it. Input shafts almost always break at this point due to where the pump and convertor meet.

RCA wires are a big thing if they are cheap or run to close to the positive wire. Then you will get that noise. Or worst case it could be the RCA inputs at the amp or the headunit.

I just found one that can handle over 1500HP. So the truck goes back to the shop for them to install this one instead of the 1000HP one I have now. Pisses me off.

HVAC controls are now gone and the rear bumper assembly is going this weekend. Make me a reasonable offer, I want my third garage space back.

Interested.

I agree, It was leveled. If my truck was stock height i would measure and let you know. Maybe someone can chime in and measure with a stock height SSS.

Heres my 2004

That wasnt off a launch either. The truck just hit 3rd gear and about a second later heard a loud snap. Im worried when it goes to the track and hope the new one doesnt break.

Finally got my truck back after a month of having the trans built and getting a custom Billet input shaft made. Anywhere the trans builder looked the shafts were rated to 1000HP at the flywheel. My truck makes 1010 on 14 psi. $3,400 later after having the entire trans re done and built for the track, I hope I dont have this issue again. Snapped clean off without even a burr.

Looks good.

Yes you would need to know the drop first. Did you have the factory size tires on the 20's? if so put them back on and measure from the top of tire to the bottom of the wheel well. Let us know what the measurement is. Or you can look under the truck for any shackles from a lowering kit.

I just seen someone post something about their drop being lower. check out silverado ss of FB its on there.

SOLD!

My truck had the frame notched welded and bolted, new driveshafts made due to pinon angle, I had to use some smaller pieces of leaf spring for the rear and buy different bump stops. My diff doesnt hit the bed at all. You will possibly rub with the sidewall height. I have 40 and I have been real close before. I dont rub until Im at full lock with the steering wheel when turned against the wheel well liner. Ive got a whole different suspension as well that is all aftermarket. Caltrac bars, shocks, sway bars bars, everything is polyurethane, even 2500 HD tie rod ends.

wheels are 22X9.5

Guy blew me off three times. so up for sale again. Listed on FB and have had a dozen people since yesterday ask about it. Who pays first gets it.

Pending sale.

the issue with plans down the road and heads is your setup will be all out of wack. You want the heads to match the cam and flow with the motor for the best results. Otherwise you might have to have the heads re done again. I have trick flow 265 Cathedral Heads all C&C machined with the largest valves you can have. But my motor is not close to stock. If the heads were any smaller it would restrict the motor.

The wheels I have now do have two valve stems. One in the front and one angled at the back of the wheel. The new ones have a more positive offset as the face of the wheel sits basically flush with the lip of the rim. Im just not sure If the wheels I want are going to make the tires stick out of the fenders. Without me having my truck now I cant measure. Ive been waiting 3 weeks to buy wheels and cant get a answer to what what size offset people are running with 22's