Blown 346

Yes, do the rear 02 delete then the tune later. They should make the 02 delete sensors that are just plug and play. Im sure the LS1 style will work as its the same basic platform, you just need to know how long they are... Thats what I do with all my cars. Unplug them, plug in the simulators and im done. A X pipe is going to be the best bet, it allows the exhaust to scavenge properly out of each bank and not back up on each other. Its the perfect way to have the exhaust flow like it should. Alot of people will dump the exhaust right after the rear axle or right before it. That is up to the drone of the exhaust as well inside. Me personally I would go with 1 7/8 headers, true dual 3" exhaust into a X pipe and dump the exhaust after the axle, or have the exhaust come together and meet into one single outlet like the factory setup but in front of the passenger tire. I was going to do that and do the Boom tube nascar style tip to be different. Of course go all stainless and take it to a shop that can weld. You will pay for quality work, but it will last.

My truck had the same issue. All I did was slightly bend the whole bracket slightly to cause it the window to close all the way. 5 years ago when this topic was fresh I made a how to about it. It only took me like 5 Minutes. The noise is coming from the rear window not closing all the way against the weather stripping.

There are some one Ebay.

You dont need to tune the truck with headers. it will still perform normally if you use the O2 delete so your SES light doesnt come on. You can tune a stock truck and make power so tuning it wont hurt it, but for the price why tune it now? wait until you actually need a tune if you are going to do more mods. Otherwise you will be spending money on tunes when you could have only spent that money once on one tune. My experience with the header bolts is they normally break. So before you start to tear into it. Soak the bolts over a day with a good rust penetrator several times to help loosen up rust. Or you might break some off, Usually the back ones break just a FYI.

Replied.

Thank you!

Offers??

search GMguageguy on google. He does an awesome with repairs and LED upgrades.

One reason is its commemorative, due to those differences. They made less than 1,000 of them. Also with accident and total losses, those numbers keep going down which make them more rare.

It can happen but not likely. Usually its one. But you may be replacing a good hub assembly. My bet is on the sensor and it needs to be cleaned up and re installed. If the hub isnt lose when you grab it from 9 and 3 o clock and slightly move back and forth and there is no play, go to the 12 and 6 o clock position and move up and down, if there is no play, usually it will make noise here and there like a howling sound or even worse. A hub can be tight but be bad do to internal bearing failure. I would do that first, then clean the sensor. If you do decide to go with a new hub get a Moog, lifetime warranty and last a very long time. Never had to replace one and I did that over 6 years ago. They cost a little more like almost $200 or a little more but woth it.

I agree you should enjoy the truck. But where you are located is where a ton of these trucks have been stolen right in the driveway within minutes. There was a member on here who had that happen, he just got home, puled in his driveway and boom they grabbed his truck when h went inside. Alarm or not like said if they want it it will be gone. No club, will do it when it can be towed, nobody is going to even say anything about that, It looks like a repo at that point. Even with an alarm and a pager remote which I have and its a Viper. It so easy for these people to dis arm them without even you being notified. I get all the wheel locks, steering wheel clubs etc. all of those are removed with seconds these days. In the 80's when those first came out no way would anyone try and steel a vehicle with one. These days, People could steal a squad from the police station and get away with it. To be honest I bought a ton of different add ons for my viper and never used them like the tilt sensor, battery back up etc. No glass break sensor as it doesnt work like you think. It goes off sound, if you smash a window with a rock it will go off. If you use something else, Im not going to say what but it wont hear the decibal its meant to hear and it wont go off. even just the normal alarm I have noticed due to how large these trucks are, and where the actual sensor is located for someone hitting it to go off. I spent hours until I finally found a place mount it on part of the inside of the metal, not sheet metal but steel. Then the sensor was able to pick up vibration and maybe have the alarm give a warning. Mine was good from the cab to the front of the truck. The further back you went to the back of the truck and it got worse and worse due to all the length of the truck. Mind you this is with my sensor being on the highest sensitivity.

I had a tailgate lock and mine got stolen. not hard to get off. Even a alarm wont do much good. These trucks that have been stolen have had alarms ad been dis armed in a few minutes with no siren going off. These are professional thieves, and then they get towed away. But my suggestion is to get a alarm regardless and have it hidden very well, along with a tracking device that only you and the installer know about like Low Jack. I dont mean in the dash, Somewhere like inside the frame where its hard to get to and spot. Dont park it outside, keep it garaged if you can, dont take it shopping or leave it unattended. Wheel locks are easily removed all the time by just going to a parts store and getting the tool, say if you lost your lock. The club can be cut, Thats all old news. thieves are always with the times of new technology and thats how they get away. I didnt let mine out of my sight. If I was going to have to, I would take another vehicle.

Tailgate Sold.

Bump...

Once you remove the wheel. You see a black line the is connected to the control arm. follow that down behind the rotor and you see a bolt or hex head holding the wire in the hub. if the plastic bottom is stuck use some penetrating oil like WD 40 and a flat head to gently lift it up. I then just clean mine with WD 40 and then wipe it off. I also use a Q tip with WD 40 and clean where the sensor goes into the wheel hub. The actual wheel hub is what your wheel connects to. Send me a PM and I can text you a pic of what the the Sensor looks like along with the wire. I have two from my truck that are good. I had to replace both hubs and they come with new sensors so I kept the old ones as spares. Heres a video of a replacement of a wheel speed sensor or ABS sensor.

I would be too.

I agree, the Wheel hub has the abs sensor connected to it. If that shorts it will throw codes. I do have multiple sensors for the hub bearings, Your wheel hub could be fine, as they dont have to loose or make noise. It could just be the sensor itself. I would try to remove the sensor from the hub. Its held in by either 8mm or a torx bit if I remember right. Pul it out and clean it up because it will be dirty, re install and see if it fixes the issue.

I remember seeing new threads started every week with peoples SSS being stolen.

Thoes arent OEM. Oem SS wheels have a whole different design then the link, they will just fit the SSS. You can buy Replicas but wont get OEM with the GM stamping. Replicas are $275. OEM wheels with curb rash are about $300 each Thats just what the pics show of the outer face. not the back of the wheel.

I can get some more pics. since its off the truck. Ill have to edit the pics to get them smaller as the site only allows the pics to be a certain size Or PM me and I can text you the pics without having to make them smaller.

$600 for the pair I will get pictures and post them.

Thanks man.

I need a instrument cluster mileage swapped over from one cluster to another. This will be totally legal with paperwork and all so its legit thru a GM dealer, unless there is another option besides the dealer. I just dont know how much this will cost as I know it wont take long.

It was the instant shut off when my truck was wrecked that had 1 red pin come out of the Axxess box for the head unit to power on, I found it and bent the tab back out and replaced the pin.

Im not meaning fake as going off RPO codes. If someone thinks they are buying one and dont know what to look for, they can get screwed.