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2006 GMC Sierra 1500, Vortec MAX Performance Edition, 200,000 highway miles, but new 6.0L LQ9 has only 40,000 miles, new upgraded Gearstar transmission has only 30,000 miles. Engine has base tune by Hutter Racing. 2WD with locking diff and traction control. Stainless steel brake lines. Newer tires, great tread. Issues: Some rust in cab corners, a few bubbles in paint, needs new air conditioning compressor, dent in rear bumper. More pics by request. East side of Cleveland, OH. $5,000 obo

It is most likely not over-filled. The gauge will read really high anytime the compressor is not running. Check and see if your compressor is spinning when you switch on the AC. I am having the same problem right now. Coincidentally, I also had the house AC repair guy over recently and he schooled me on how the whole system works. My truck AC will only work when the engine is cold and when only driving on city streets. Hit the highway and it shuts off. Warm the engine up and switch it on, and nothing. The manual says that you can remove the pressure sensor on the side of the accumulator bottle, insert a jumper wire between the two pins, and the compressor should turn on. It didn't work for me. I started the truck cold, immediately attached the recharge canister, and the gauge read normal. I added some refrigerant anyway and it seemed to help for a day or two. I am going to replace the belt today (just because it is due anyway). Any chance the compressor has some kind of belt tension sensor? I have 150k on my '06 GMC VortecMax and have thought about replacing the belt tensioners just to be safe. What do you think?

I have the rims pictured below on my '06 GMC Sierra Performance Edition. Can anyone tell me if they are chrome PLATED aluminum wheels or chrome CLADDED aluminum wheels? To clarify, chrome plated aluminum is dipped like typical, old-school chrome bumpers and such. Chrome cladding is a "chromed" piece of plactic glued or bonded to an aluminum wheel (like the current Silverado 20s). I want to get mine either Black Chromed or Anodized grey, but I can't do that if they are cladded.

I am the original owner of my custom ordered 2006 GMC Sierra Performance Edition. I ordered the cheapest, lowest optioned Vortec Max available. It is a 2WD Extended Cab SLE with the split bench cloth seat and only one option, the Sierra Performance Edition Package. Black paint with small chrome side trim, the all black plastic side mirrors, , chrome bumpers, and a set of what I think are the coolest looking stock 20" rims anyone's ever put out. It still looks bad-ass. The 13.99" front brake rotors and rear drum brakes still get me crazy looks at local parts stores ("Are you sure it's not a 1500HD?" haha). I ordered the truck around Thanksgiving 2005 and took delivery mid-December 2005. She has 132,000 miles on her and still as fast as ever. The only major problem has been the transmission rebuild that was needed at 115,000 miles. I recently started using it to tow my wife's new horse trailer without so much as a hiccup. This has just been an awesome truck.

That still does not answer the question. That whole thread only talks about resetting the TPMS after rotating tires. I want to change the pressure that the computer reads as OK. I big tires inflated to ~35PSI, rather than little stock tires inflated to 80psi. If I lower my pressure and reset as mentioned in that thread, they still read as under inflated.

I have a 2008 2500HD with the 6.0L and the TPMS settings are ridiculous. They are 50psi in the front and 80psi in the back. The problem is that the truck came with little baby tires on it and looks retarded. I want to put larger, all-terrain tires on but cannot find anything that can handle these pressures. How can I either adjust the TPMS settings or eliminate the TPMS without having the warning light on all the time?

Thanks for the how-to. I am putting in a new axle on my 2WD Vortex Max tomorrow and I have a couple questions. The brand new axle came with a coating on it to prevent rust, does this need to be completely cleaned off? It didn't come with wheel studs, can someone explain how to swap them? I also got a new bearing and seal, which you never discussed. How and where do they go in? I'm sure I can figure some of this out myself, but I want to be sure since my go-to mechanic buddy is on vacation.

My fan only works on speeds 3 and 5. I keep hearing about the resistor being the culprit, but how do you fix it? What part do I need to buy? Thanks.

I bought my '06 GMC Performance Edition VortecMax brand new and I just passed 112,000 miles. I had an oil cooler line blow at around 90k, my oil pressure gauge quit working around 100k, and a few fan speeds on the AC quit around 110k. I now only have fan speeds 3 and 5. All in all, it's held up pretty damn well.

I'm looking into going the opposite way of most of the people on this site. I want to put bigger tires on my NBS Vortec Max. I have heard that this puts a lot of added stress on the transmission, but I was unable to find out how or why. I imagine it is just due to the extra weight. Does anyone have any experience putting bigger tires on trucks? Did anything get screwed up? Anyway to prevent problems? Thanks!

Cool, I'll check that out tonight. I was debating how long I was willing to leave the gauge broken so that I wouldn't have to shell out for a new cluster.

Awesome!!! How sure are you guys that it is just the gauges? I have a 20 mile drive home and would rather not blow anything up.

The dash display went bad? You just plugged in a new one and it was fine? Huh, never would have thought of that. I figured the pressure sensor in the engine would fail before a guage. Is there a way to test for this without just buying a new gauge?

On my way to work this morning, luckily very close to work, I looked down and my oil pressure guage was max'ed out! No warning lights came on, all other gauges were normal. I stopped and pulled the dipstick, the level and color was perfectly fine for having 2500 miles since last oil change. There were no leaks. Could it be a faulty pressure gauge? I'll probably go out and check on it at lunch. What else should I look for? Thanks. Edit: My truck is a '06 Sierra Performace Edition Vortec Max 2WD with 92k miles.

***NEVERMIND*** Sorry, I found the answer from someone elses post. I must not have been specific enough on my search. I have a 2006 GMC Sierra VortecMax 2WD, bone stock with 80k miles. I'm up in Cleveland where we've had a long string of days with temps in the teens and single digits. At work, I park in a garage that is open on the sides. It protects from snow, but not the cold. I started noticing on my drive home on the freeway that the engine was spinning 300-400 RPM higher than normal (at 65mph w/cruise control on) for the first 5 to 10 minutes of my commute. Then it drops down to normal. Is this just a cold tranny trying to warm up? Does the converter not lock up below a certain operating temp? The tranny has been serviced (flush and filter) on schedule by the dealer and I don't recall this happening in the past (it could have been and I just never noticed). Any thoughts?

Original owner of an '06 Sierra Performance Edition VortecMax, picked it up December 2005, now has 70,000 miles. Special ordered it, and despite the month wait, I'll never buy a car straight off the lot again. I got exactly what I wanted, nothing more, nothing less.

I custom ordered my 2006. I was a fan of the SS, but it was a bit too pricey. And I was not a big fan of the 06 Silverado front end. So I played around on the GMC website and stumbled upon the Sierra Perfomance Edition. With all the SSS performance goodies in a no frills, low cost package, I just couldn't pass it up. I went with the black extended cab, SLE1 basic interior, and the Performance Edition package as my only option. It is a beautiful truck, all black with chrome trim and chrome 20's. I think one of my favorite parts is the locking rear end. On rainy or snowy days, I could spend hours just driving around, hanging it out around every corner. It is still bone stock, but will eventually get an exhaust, air intake, and dyno tune.