eric.dally

There is a bushing in the tail shaft of the transfer case housing and once that wears then even a new seal will leak fluid. On mine when this happened I could jack up the back end so there was no load on the driveshaft and there was probably a little more than a 1/16" of radial movement of the yoke where it goes into the transfer case. For mine I had to rebuild the T-case for other issues so I replaced the bushing while I had it apart. I am not sure if you can replace the bushing without splitting the case, but if your somewhat mechanically inclined removing the T-case and splitting it apart can be done in an afternoon.

TTT

Correct me if I am wrong as I am not a suspension guru, but my understanding has been, at least for cars, that by increasing the stiffness of the rear swaybar it reduces understeer:confused: which would be very helpful for our trucks. I know my 03 has bad understeer and if I am on a spirited drive on a curvy road I can definitely feel it push sometimes. I was considering a rear sway to help with this.

Hey guys, I could really use some help. Does anybody have a broken transfer case sitting around that they would be willing to part out? I am in desperate need of some parts. The most critical part that I am struggling to find is the transfer case input gear its number 45 in the attached file. I also need a new mainshaft, number 43, if you have that as well. Transfer Case Explosion.pdf

Does anybody have any idea what could have caused this failure? It seems like there is no way for oil to get to that end of the mainshaft and it ended up causing the end to rust, but if that was the case I would think a lot more people would have this problem. I found all the parts I need except the input shaft so far, so if anybody has access to one they want to sell that would be awesome.

So about a week and a half ago I was driving home to the parents place for the holidays and was about 8 hours into my 13 hour trip when I had to slow down to about 40 for some traffic and then when I started to accelerate again all I heard was a horrible grinding noise (like gears slipping) and I lost all power in all gears. There I sat in the middle of the interstate in rush hour traffic in Minneapolis. So I got towed to an impound and borrowed my uncles car trailer and my dad's truck and hauled it back home. Once home I dropped the transfer case and took it apart and found that all of the splines between the input shaft and the mainshaft had sheared off allowing the input shaft to slip on the mainshaft. I have never heard of this happening before and looking at the splines that are failed they look like they are rusted. I am trying to figure out how they could have rusted, the transfer case fluid was still full and had been changed at about 50k miles. My truck is an 03 with approx. 65k miles on it, and I am not making hardly any more power than stock. Has anybody seen this happen before? Also for anybody that has swapped to the larger input shaft in order to use the 4l80e, does anybody still have their original transfer case input shaft and would they be willing to sell it for cheap?

My thought process is that the purpose of motor oil is to prevent excessive wear to engine parts, not to add horse power. And from my experiences I am confident that Mobil1 will protect my engine, as for the other brands I am not sure as I don't have experience with them. But I would be willing to sacrifice a couple HP to have that peice of mind that my engine is protected.

What kind of drop do you have in the front? Even at stock height it can be normal for the bump stops to just touch the lower control arm. It actually works as part of the suspension on a torsion bar setup like our trucks have. Having the bump stop adds progression to the suspension(i.e. makes it more stiff as it moves through its travel to prevent hard bottoming out). If you lowered the front using torsion keys or just cranking the keys down some guys have drilled holes in their bump stops to help soften them up. There is actually a post on here somewhere that illistrates how to do that, it should be under the "how to" section. I am not sure if anybody makes aftermarket stops for lowered trucks on the front, but that may be another option. If you lowered the front with spindles and did not change anything with the torsion keys I would suggest leaving the bump stops alone, should not have changed the geometry from the factory.

First thing you should check is how much clearance you have between your rear axle and the rubber bump stops. When I did my 4 inch drop in the back I cut two nubs off and removed the spacer plate and still only had less than an inch of clearance, and would bottom out even over small bumps. I ended up putting in a small c-notch and now it rides great.

Thanks for all the input guys. I decided to go with the airlift kit. I may need to fab up a lower mount depending on were the upper mounts to my frame with the c-notch, but I think it will work alright. My plan is to run two seperate fill lines, (one for each bag) with the schrader valves located behind the gas fill door. Does anybody have any watch outs for installing these bags, or any issues you have ran into? Thanks, Eric

Do you know who supplies the OEM gaskets? Are they Felpro gaskets?

I currently have a 4 inch drop on the rear of my truck with hangers and shackles, and I also have a DJM c-notch. Unloaded it rides great, but occasionally I need to either throw something in the box or tow a boat and it rides kind low then. Does anybody know which airbag kits would work with a 4 inch drop and a DJM c-notch? Would the Mcgaughys helper bag kit PN 33033 work, or what about PN 33024? Thanks in advance for the help.

I'm looking at rebuilding mine too, where can you buy a new chain for these units?

Ok, new question...Is there a difference between the NV149 and NP149? I can find parts for the NP149, but is that the same as ours? I was pretty sure we had a NV149??? If they are different does anybody know if the chain or rear case would work from the NP149, from the pictures I can find of the NP149 online it looks about the same as mine.

I may have been exageratting when I said an 1/8" I haven't actually measured it, but regardless there is a lot more radial play there than there should be and it needs to be fixed before it causes more issues. I'm one of those people that isn't going to wait around for it to break, I need to fix it as soon as I know something is wrong.