dozer

Well I finally made it to the track and managed a best of 11.41 @ 119 on 14.5psi. The DA were awesome for here at 5200 and nice cool mid 60* out. So the best pass was the the last pass of the day and the previous pass I blew a coupler on the charge pipe before the intercooler at about half track. Pulled in fixed it and on the best pass It blew 50- 100' from the finish and I lost all boost and coasted through the finish for the 11.4 @119. Best MPH of the day was 121mph. I made 5 passes all at 14.5psi and bumped timing from16* to 18* and trimmed some fuel. First pass out ran 11.59 @ 119.39 worst pass was a 16.2 when the coupler blew. I have traction bars on now and will soon be strapping the front as it duck walks the front pretty bad. I was very happy with how the truck did as this is how it will be on the streets. It was a 140mile drive round trip to the track and I got about 10mpg in the truck. I will be going out next month and see if I can get better hook the best 60' was 1.70 and maybe push more boost. I have a vid but it sucks so you will just have to wait until next test and tune as I dont think this is the fastest pass the truck has in it by any means, plus the boards did not work and we were told they will be up in a couple of weeks. All runs were made at Fallon's NHRA Top Gun Raceway. Run 1 1.72 60' 7.426 ET 94.339 MPH 11.59 ET 119.39 MPH Run 2 1.785 7.49 94.647 11.638 120.091 Run 3 2.039 7.715 95.651 11.811 121.668 Run 5 1.708 7.311 95.873 11.414 119.116

His set up uses a GTO bracket with custom length spaces but that shouldn't be hard. My guess is 450$ for the ATI Crank Damper, 150$ for the 8rib pulley to mount to the ATI crank pulley and maybe 750$ for the bracket with the tensioner. It looks like a pretty sweet setup and if I do a truck kit for anyone again this will be the rout I will take because you just bolt it all in front of your stock 6rib and if you you have blower belt problem the 6rib will be unaffected and blower belt changes will take no time at all. The the savings on a entire 8 rib kit for the standard truck kit is money in the bank.

Racetronix 255lph pump here is the pump you need. be sure to select the 255lph and not the 190lph in the drop down box.

Thats enough injector for 6-7psi but will your hand held let you change IFR for thoses injectors? So your FMU is only boost ref and bumps FP as boost increases. Some are boost ref and adjustable. You might as well do the pump to these guys have booth pumps and injectors for your truck Racetronix.

I would not tune via fuel pressure at this point and get a wideband on that thing that way you can dial your FMU to get the proper Air Fuel Ratio under boost. Visit My Website Visit My Website Visit My Website

Yes I could run a wider belt but it would be more stress on the pulleys. I really like the pro classic line I cut it all with scissors lol.

No not yet..... Still on my FLT Level 5 Billet output 4L65E

Ill just be happy not have belt problems and to be able to mat the gas pedal and not have something break. Not so sure Ill see 10's. Its going take some work as its blowing all 4 tires off really bad from a launch. From a dig if I do a stalled launch it will spin all trough 1st and drill the 6800rpm shift point in about 15ft and keep the tires lit through most of second. I thought it was short shifting or something , no the tire were just roasting and I wasn't going anywhere.

This is my 03 SilvySS with a TSP 408 and the new Procharger cog drive kit. It installed easy and the only issuses was with the 6.0 iron block was not drilled and taped for the 2 of the power steering bracket bolts. I have a 80tooth crank cog and a 45tooth blower cog which is ATI's super pulley that lets the blower free when you decel. I am maxing the blower out at 7000rpms and have only had the truck to 6800 so far. I need a bigger intercooler because mine is a huge restriction 3" A2A intercooler 24x12x3 core. Im only seeing 13psi (8200ft DA today here at 4500ft high desert)and barley cools which I expected. A2W is in the works with a 2000cfm rated intercooler 2 large heat exchanges and a 7gallon tank.. Headed to do some testing this weekend if I can keep IAT's down under 150. And yes the oil slinger has been re clock but not the tag for those of you who noticed.

Im abig fan of Precisions Vigilante 9.5" 3400 or bigger for the Prochagers

Yep these are them BrandNGK Spark PlugsManufacturer's Part Number 4177Part Type Spark PlugsProduct Line NGK V-Power Spark PlugsSummit Racing Part Number NGK-4177Shorty Spark Plug NoResistorYes Manufacturer Heat Range6 Electrode Core Material CopperElectrode Tip Material Nickel alloy Insulator Type Projected Spark Plug Thread Size 14mmSpark Plug Reach 0.708 in.Spark Plug Seat Style TaperedWrench Diameter 5/8 in.Ground Strap Quantity One NGK Part Number TR6<------------------------------TR6 thses are the right plugs Quantity Sold individually.

The Helium is a joke it is John Helms screwing around with video editing of some 190 pulls in his Procharged Vett. . As a mater of fact the A&A Prochager kit on that car in the video is now on the Yellow ZO6 in the pics above John sold it to my buddy Eric who had me put it on his vett and tune it and let me tell ya 190 pulls are scary as hell when your not driving.

On a stock motor 12psi is pushing it on pump gas the tune has got to be spot on. Sorry but there are no guarantees when you boost to any PSI the more you boost the less room for error or mishaps. 3600rpm is my set stall but is flashing 4000 I dont drop below 5300 on the shifts.

Full built 408ci motor w/forged internals and 13psi on the streets. It starts making boost at 2500rpms by the time my converter flashes Im at 6psi.

The F1R is much bigger and has 5.4:1 gear ratio inside vs 4.1:1. which means every rev of the blower drive shaft mine will spin the impeller 5.4 times hence the cog belt as with its very aggressive impeller they are difficult to spin. A P1SC is a 1200cfm blower and the F1R is 2000cfm. On Prochargers chart the F1R is about 5 blowers up in size from the P1SC.

I get the 4" tubing and couplers from Boostcontrollers.com and the 3"-3.5" from CXRRacing and yes a Wideband will help keep an eye on things.

Thank you. As for power don't know but from a dig I can spin all of 1st to 6800rpms and half or more of 2nd and it will lite em up on 25mph rolls... Oh and its AWD. And dont tell Vince at FLT Iv been buring out its had on the output shaft when it grabs but damn it is addicting to have smoke pooring out of all 4 corners when leaving a car show at Summit Racings parking lot sorry Vince I had to. I do know Its a hell of a lot faster than a 12.3sec SSS I built for a friend. Iv been promising track times forever but all the belt bugs have beeen killing me havent made it yet. As far as the Meth kit we run a indicator light for when its on, 1 gallon tanks so we dont run out and watch the wideband gauge. I have had zero issues running it this way on 3 trucks and a 03 ZO6 with a procharger. What I do is tune my truck to 11.5: AFR without meth and run low timming until dialed then I spray enough meth to get my AFR's about 10.5:1 and then in the tuning add timming via the Intake Air Temp table in the tune because the Meth lowers IATs a bunch when spaying accross the sensor and add the timing in those cells where it drops.. So if meth dose not spray AFR's only goto 11.5 and no timing is added and motor lives plus the light and wideband are the first indacator. I know it sounds like a lot but Im in the habbit of mashing the pedal and then about 6000rpms look at the WB gauge quick and then again in 2nd and once more in 3rd quick. Here are some pics of different setup and this is what i put togthere for everyone Snows Controller of the map sensor, Alcohol injection Systems 100% meth safe, Stealbraid nitrous line and Devils Owns Nozzels. TBSS ZO6 TBSS SSS

Here is what I did for CAI 4" under the blower helps a ton with my F1R. Moved the battery to the the pass side. I run 13psi on the streets w/ Meth and 91 on my built motor up here at 5000ft, and will push 16-18(yet to be seen) at the track with 104 Sonoco and Meth. My only issue is tearing up ALT's , water pumps and tensioners cog keeps destroying them the fix will be here tomorrow.Procharger LSX Cog drive

Thats just me I would say at the track with your tuner there scanning great 12 psi and go. For street use 10 is what I would recommend there is just a little wiggle room there on pump gas.(we only have 91)I swear the luck of most guys is if you cant afford a built motor the thing will die tomorrow on 6psi and if you have funds for forged the thing will live years on 13psi. I guess its a crap shoot just keep timing low and IAT's lower.

We have gone round and round with the Goodyears belts they are great for about 4 WOT's and stretch out and start to slip. The best combo for the least or should I say less belt slip with a 6 rib is a Gates Pro-V belt and a Goodyear tensioner. 12 psi on the streets with a stock block staight Meth injection IMO is a must it would wet the fuse of that time bomb a bit..

Looks like you did your home work.

Sounds like a great idea. You can solder the connections but regular heat shrink will dissolve and distort when it is submerged in gas.

No its not a stock motor. Its a fully built 370 longblock from BEI, forged internals, ported heads, 8.5:1 compression so on and so forth.

Iv seen where people have pick up extra HP on a dyno with cutouts open.

Im on 60# injectors for now and I think 80# injectors are in my near future (waiting for spring to run it). I hoping the 60's will keep up since Ill be running 80+ psi at the rail WOT with my boost referenced 1:1 regulator and a Magnafuel Tuner 650 (MP4301) pump which will keep fuel volume up at those pressure with out breaking a sweat. For 11psi as stated in your sig I would run a walbro 255 intrank and 60# injectors. I belive this pump will sufice with a non-return fuel system but I am not completly familar with non-return systems. On pump gas most would say 11:1 alittle rich, 11.5:1 is perfect and 12:1 is ragged edge blower only. I also noticed from your sig you are spying Nitrous so I have no advice for AFR 's with blower nitrous combos.