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smoke03

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Everything posted by smoke03

  1. danny....it always something with you, isnt it? lol Im the same way. Money talks so I say youll do alright with a 5.3 just dont forget the forged internals if your spraying....
  2. As far as plans for the k20...Im not sure yet. Im still thinkin....
  3. oh ill still be around. Yea it was tough to watch the guy leave with it but everything is cool. Dont have a truck payment anymore and the truck the really deserved a roof over its head finally got it.
  4. Sold my SSS this morning. Guy showed up from Lubbock, Texas with cash in hand and drove away with it. Man, it was beautiful after the detailing that it got last night. Anyway, It didnt take long to find another garage ornament. I went to my parent house and picked up the truck I got when I was 16. It never EVER gets driven and needs a little work. Anyway here are some pics. It needs a cleaning. 1985 Silverado K20. 350 cid, 4 speed trans.
  5. na that should be fine. I was meaning like everytime you drive it lol
  6. All you have to do is buy the wiondow switch(Mine was $60-$70) and wire it in. Its really simple. Theres a how to on here somewhere.You could just use the button its just less hassle if you have a switch that does it automatically. If you use a window switch then you dont have to have the button. The switch acts like your button. You jus set it to start at a certain rpm and stop at a certain rpm. As long as the rpms are in that range it will spray.
  7. Well thats what im running as well as alot of people on here. I really like them and have had NO problems out of them. JUST BE SURE WHEN YOU PUT ANY HEADER ON TO GET THE OEM GASKETS FROM A DEALER.
  8. You can do it. As long as your not spraying 24/7 and abusing the crap out of it you will be fine with proper measuring instruments(gauges) and tuning.
  9. Some spray through shifts, some dont. I wouldnt reccomend it. That is the wonderful thing about a window switch. You can set it to start spraying at one rpm and stop spraying at another. (shift point) Then once the rpms fall back within range it will start spraying again. No need for a manual press button. A bottle heater is a MUST HAVE item. It is what keeps the bottle pressure up. You want your bottle pressure to be high (900-1000 psi) before you spray. The lower the pressure the less horsepower you will gain. Example: If you spray at 600 psi then you wont get the same boost as you do when spraying at 950 psi. Like I said. Ideal bottle pressure is approxximatley 900-1000 psi.
  10. Here is your excuse for pillar gauges. N20 gauge, Fuel pressure gauge, and a AFR Wideband (not just a regular afr) Basically it gives you a VERY accurate reading of your Air/fuel Ratio. Instead of just a little light flickering on a regular (non wideband) gauge you will actually get a numerical reading. It will actually come with a sensor (Identical to an o2 sensor) that goes into your exhaust. A local muffler shop can put the 02 bung in for you. I just used the o2 bung from where my rear o2 sensors USED to be before I deleted them. This will tell you if you are to lean or to rich while spraying. This is important and will help keep you from blowing the engine. Im not doubting zippy at all because he is far more knowledgeable on tuning than I will ever be. However I wouldnt feel safe spraying without some timing pulled from the truck. As far as the colder plugs, I cant give you an explanation. All I know is you are suppost to run a colder plug with any forced induction (I.E. Turbo/Supercharger) or nitrous application.
  11. Volat makes a CAI with an optional attachment like your talking about that runs down into the brake ducts on the bumper. Few have seen much gain from this product though. As far as a tune, depending on your location you can have a mail order tune like mentioned above or find a tuner local that can dyno tune your truck. And MANY people have had the gauge cluster problem. Like also stated above if Your truck has under 70,000 miles then the dealer will fix it for free.
  12. Did you purge everything correctly when you installed it? theres a how to around here Ill see if I can dig it up. Edit: I found it http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/index.ph...60&hl=Tstat
  13. Yea chris has helped me several times as well.
  14. Dan long time no see bro. I aint been around in a while. How ya been? Well I would have found that belt routing diagram in my owners manual but...I dont have one. But the guys at autozone hooked me up with one this morning lol
  15. Theres alot of money in that truck. I would definatley say hes been to this sight a few times.
  16. Thats what I was running before I got rid of my setup and you could definatley tell it was there. Speaking from experience, I would buy a bigger alternator.
  17. Harris Speedworks makes a very nice complete plate kit for 500-600 bucks. All youll need then is your gauges and a bottle heater INVEST IN A WIDEBAND AFR GAUGE. Very important. NX and NOS are very good brands as well. I would go with a plate setup If I did it again. Then nozzle is good but the TB plate is better. You'll need a Fuel pressure and a nitrous gauge as well. The tune is VERY important as well. I wouldnt go over a 125-150 shot. DO NOT SPRAY ON A STOCK TUNE, PERIOD!!!! No you will not need seperate tunes. Sure the Nitrous tune will pull a little HP from the truck under normal driving circumstances but Ill bet my next paycheck on the fact that you wont be able to tell a difference. I couldnt. NGK TR6 Spark plugs are what you would want to run as well. Hope this helps.
  18. Any one know where I can find a belt routing diagram for a 2003 Silverado SS? Truck doesnt have one under the hood anywhere. TIA! Smoke
  19. burnout contest, huh? ....no radix here pal, cant turn em all, lol
  20. Might be interested. Have to talk to the wife. The only problem is South Dakota is a long way away.
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