toolhaulerSS

Well I got the truck over to the same guy I had 2 trans done with and he said the Viscous Coupler is diffently shot. he called me on the phone and give me a run down basically it is the worst transfore case he has seen that is still drivable. new viscous coupler $800 and $600 for labor and more for new gears, seals and bearings puts me close to $1800. a tad more then I wanted to spend 3 day before xmas but it's just money. who needs food. I and starting to look for a new truck now as it's allways something with the ss. I just replaced one of the o2s and got more codes for the other ones, got to love it. but I'm still a year or two away from it so I want it to work right.

thanks for that info I will get this checked out.

so we got 12" snow yesterday and I was trying to get out of the driveway. 350' long and I have never got stuck in it before so I don't shove or plow. changed my mind and was going to get a snow blower but I got stuck 3 times in the driveway? I just figured I spining on ice at first but when I had to get out I saw that the front wheels didn't spin? put down some ice salt and move another 40' got stuck agian? then I was get mad why wasn't my awd kick in? I put some miles on after that I it seem like it worked most of the time but some times I would fish tail out coming out of a snowy coner? I have no dash waring lights, should I see if the are any codes with a obd I just changed the diff fluid in the fall but didn't do the transfer case, I have trutrac fliud in now about 2 years/ 40,000 miles. I am going to change this soon. Is there any other ideas out there I could sure use them thanks brad

I have had good luck with my tbtc. I had the trans rebuilt and add it on then I didn't get a tune for it for about a year no probems. My temps are in the good range so I didn't need to add a cooler. BUT if I was to do it again I would get a cricle D.

That has happen to me a couple of times. Just figure it was wet out and the front could not keep up. It would grab after a few seconds or I let off.

I have always ran 91-93 octane and the truck runs great. I accidntially put in 87 two weeks ago and could totally tell the difference. Had less throttle responce and felt slower over all. I seemed to happen pretty quickly. I didn't notice and pinging or knocking but my stereo is loud. I filled up with 92 after I ran it though and with in a couple day it came back to life. When I had the 87 in it I was at a light with a 2500 ram hemi and didn't want to race him but he wanted to run it was a short block and I let him go and then I got on it and all could do was get even with him and stay there till we had to let off at 60-65 mph. I have walked away from hemis before, but not this time. Wish I had that run back with 92 and my tune doing it's thing.

I have had mine for 3 years and it has been great. I got the paging fob and it has some good range.

now thats some snow.

My younger brother worked at one of these oil change places. they are trained to up sell parts and service and if 50 % of the people belive they need it good for them. I't worked good for me I could go in at certain times and get all sorts of things done for free. they didn't care, it was 3 or 4 high school kids working there , and they were high all the time. I do most all my own now.

cool man i like your pick there are so many rims out there.

looks great man I just started to paint my bow tie and will start on the duct today too.

we must have the same taste . some of the same rims I have been looking at. I really like the spezia 6 rims.

I like the 331's with the split spoke I have been looking at them for awhile.

cool man going for the black and blue look. I just got a new speed grill set up in black chrome and pick up some paint today. I should start this week sometime. hope you don't think I stealing your work lol, but I have been thinking about doing this for awhile. it looks good so far can't wait to see yours done.

nice job thats the look I want to go with have you thought about doing the brake ducts? I'm going to try it.

Thanks guys. as far as other equipment I have a ppi 2300 driving the pg in the front and a memphis 1000 runing 2 kicker l7 8". I have slowly been working on it I have fully deaded the cab ,doors, and roof. I'm not runing rear fill right now I like it that way. I'm a stereo guy I like sound up front and left- right. my brother can't stand it he like the balloon of sound with rear fill, Its what you like. I had a old car that I ran rear speakers from 80 hz to around 400 hz in mono. It sound really good that way. when I upgrade the fronts I may put these in the back as some low to mid range fill.

One of the truck parts stores had the blue inlay on sale and I always thought it would look cool but was too much $. so it got me and i installed it this morning. I just need to find the chrome bezel and add blue leds and it will be all set.

Yes I ran 1/0 wire from alt to the battery with a 300 amp fuse. Then I ues the stock ground point on the engine and ran to the front frame rail. The ground from the battery goes to the same frame rail point. you can see in the pic. Just about everybody said to leave the stock wires in place but I chose to take them out It just cleans it up abit.

Thought I would post this up I have had it done for a month now. I installed the kinetic hc1800 and rerun my big 3 wires. first thing I found out was I wanted to spin the batt around so the pos. terminail was not so close to the body. I had to move the battery tray to the left about 3/8" and the windsheild washer tank had to move forward about 1/4". Then rolled the front edge of the battery tray so it lock in better with the battery, then cut the hold down piece in half so it was a tight fit on the battery. Because I spun the batterry I could reuse the factory brace I had to remove when I first did the big 3 and radio upgrade. I lined it with foam on the bottom and because the washer is locked on the bolt i put the bolt thought the fender hole and backed out the bolt and it forced down the brace and locked the battery. I chose not to use the battery terminail because it didn't look as good to me. I solder a ring terminial on each wire and 1 bolt holds it all down. I had way to much time in putting this in ( about 12 hours) but I try to do eveything right and take my time. It is winter and this is when I keep it in the garage and get to work on it.

Been working on some fiberglass door pods and just got them wired up last night. I didn't get any working pics but here is the finish shots. big difference in sound so far from having them mounted in the doors. I moved the tweets up to the a piller , it did move the sound stage up but I can hear the seperation from the comps being farther away. so not sure if I will move them. I need to do some more listen. the speakers are PG 6.5rsd I got online for around 75$ after spending time on a car audio fourm. They sound good but I will probloy upgrade sometime soon.

welcome

I have been wanting to get some headers for awhile. I would probably get in on a Arh group buy.

I think the foam was 3/8" wide x 1/4" thick.

I had this happen to me, this is what i did and is still is working. If the problem is the window frame to the door this would not help, but it fixed the bad seal on mine. http://www.SilveradoSS.com/forums/index.ph...st&p=576082