Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/26/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
  2. 2 points
    Seems like it is pretty perfect lol. Iโ€™ve seen them with more miles go for more.
  3. 2 points
    Blackbear, does all my tuning with EFILIVE on my 03 Silverado ss
  4. 2 points
    Due to an over popular cam spec requesting this is a new cam help guide and posting. If you want to review the cams here, feel free and ask all you'd like in this post. Want a cam recomdation or have a question on a specific cam, just post it in here. Info for cams needed is... Year of truck: Model: Trans: Converter: Gear: Tires: List of current mods: Possible future mods: Goals for truck: Uses of the truck: Cam list: Comp Cams: XR259HR...206/212 .515/.522 112LSA. Great cam for a stock truck looking to make big low rpm torque and use a stock torque converter. Better suited to a 4.8L or very mild 5.3L. Recomended torque converter would be no more than a 3000 for a 4.8L or 5.3L and stock or 2600 for a 6.0L. Recomended valve springs would be LS6 GM springs. XR265HR...212/218 .522/.529 114LSA. Great cam for a stock truck using stock truck exhaust manifolds and either a stock converter or low rpm stall. In a 4.8L or 5.3L I'd recomend a 2600 to 3000 stall. In a 6.0L I'd recomend a stock or 2600 stall, but the 2600 would be better suited to the job. Recomended valve springs would be GM LS6 springs. XR269HR...216/220 .525/.532 114LSA Decent cam for a bolt on type truck running shorty headers or long tubes. Stock manifolds could be used, but headers would be a bigger gain at this point. For a 4.8L this is a fairly agressive cam and I'd recomend at least a 2800 to 3200 stall. For a 5.3L and 6.0L a 2600 to 3000 stall would do the job nicely. This cam isn't really recomended for gains with it's low lift and bigger duration. Other than great valve spring life there isn't much reason to run it. Recomended valve springs would be LS6 springs. XR273HR...220/224 .530/.534 112LSA Decent cam for an LQ9 for someone worried about valve spring life. With this much duration and this low of lift I just wouldn't recomend it as a choice for any application. XR277HR...224/228 .534/.537 112LSA Agressive cam for duration and LSA. Not enough lift to make it worth recomending at this duration. XR265HR...212/218 .558/.563 115LSA Very nice cam for a truck with mild exhaust upgrades. Not a recomended cam for a 4.8L or 5.3L as this much split with the small intake valves isn't the way to go. For a 6.0L this cam makes for a nice and mild dail driver with very little lope at idle. Stock converter can be used, but a 2600 stall is recomended. This cam can also be used with a blower or nitrous with decent results. Recomended valve springs would be LS6 spring or Comp 918. XR275HR...222/224 .566/.568 112LSA Very strong cam for a naturally asperated setup. In a 4.8L you'll need a 3000 to 3400 stall. In a 5.3L you'll need a 2600 minimum and best results at 3000 stall. With a 6.0L I'd recomend a 2600 to 3000 stall depending on how agressive you want the launch. This is a very good cam for torque in the middle rpm range. Recomended to use shorty headers or long tubes. You may also need an injector upgrade at this point. With good tuning the idle will be a bit choppy, but yet still very streetable and will make for a nice daily driver with some bite. Not recomended for nitrous or Supercharger. Recomended springs are LS6 springs or 918's. XR281HR...228/230 .571/.573 112LSA Very strong cam for a naturally asperated setup. Not recomended for a 4.8L or 5.3L. An L33 5.3L H.O. could run this cam with it's increased compression, but would require a 3200 to 3600 stall to be happy with it's results. In a 6.0L I would only recomend this for an LQ9 with it's increased compression and it could be ran with less stall due to it's cubes and compression. In an LQ9 I'd recomend long tube headers, LS6 or Fast style intake, and larger injectors. I'd recomend a 2800 to 3400 stall behind an LQ9 with this cam. Idle even tuned in perfectly will be choppy and will make for a decent daily driver as long as you aren't in heavy traffic. Not recomended for supercharger or nitrous. Recomended springs would be 918's. XER273HR...224/230 .581/.591 114LSA Very similar power band to the XR281HR, except with a better idle and better drivability. I would not recomend this for anything smaller than a 6.0L either. Recomended to run a shorty or long tube header. Larger injectors will be needed. I'd recomend a 2600 to 3000 stall for this cam. If it is well tuned in the idle is lopey, but not unacceptable for a daily driver. This cam will also work ok with L92 style cylinder heads. It happens to be one of the cams that Livernois has chosen for it's L92 package. Will work nicely with nitrous or a blower. MP122 or bigger for Magnacharger or D1SC for Procharger. Recomended springs would be 918's or 921's. XER281HR...232/234 .595/.598 112LSA Pretty much a cam built for no smaller than a 6.0L. If you want to run a cam like this you'll want more than the stock compression of an LQ9. I'd say no less than 10.5:1 compression. You'll also want a car intake for this rpm range. With a 6.0L you'll want a 3200 stall or higher. This cam is better suited to bigger inch such as 6.7L and bigger. Not recomended for boost or juice. Recomended springs would be 921's or Partriot Dual Gold's. XER287HR...238/240 .605/.609 112LSA If you want to run this with a 6.0L, shoot for 11:1 compression or higher, a stall of 3600 or higher, 1 7/8 headers, and a Fast intake. This would make for a nice agressive cam in a 6.7L or bigger that can still be daily driven. More cubes of course wouldn't require as much stall. Recomended springs would be Patriot Dual Golds. Texas Speed: Thunder Racing: Trick Flow: TFS-30602001...216/220 .560/.560 114LSA TFS-30602002...220/224 .575/.575 112LSA TFS-30602003...228/230 .585/.585 112LSA Still updating...
  5. 1 point
    Hey everyone, my name is Mason and Iโ€™m from Texas but moved about a year ago to Denver, CO. I purchased a 2002 GMC Sierra Denali quadrasteer with a supercharger and 90k mikes a little over a year ago. About six months ago after a trip up flagstaff road my transmission gave out on me and since I love this truck I decided to do a 4L80e swap which has been a very long and relatively costly mission. I can contribute almost all of my success to these forums even though I never interacted until now that I am looking for someone to segment swap for me. Just wanted to say hello and thanks to everyone that makes this a great source as well as a bit about my truck.
  6. 1 point
    1.6 60 is moving out for a 5k lb truck
  7. 1 point
    2005 SS with forged dished pistons, forged rods, ls3 heads with stainless steel valves and trunnion bear upgrade, 76/75mm trick performance turbo kit, devilsown meth kit, 40k trumax oil cooler, Texas speed cam 222/228, ls2 timing chain, built 4l60 with stage two shift kit and yank3600 stall, 120lb injectors, dual walbro 450 fuel pump with -10 feed lines and -8 return, 92mm holly hi-ram intake. Soon will be tuned for E85.
  8. 1 point
    Doubt it's the same setup he's talking about but GM Performance has a Brembo 16" front (front only!) kit that is marketed for the current K2XX trucks, but *should* fit our GMT800 series trucks as well as GMT900's. It's not cheap at around $2300 or so but with 16" rotors and 6 piston calipers, and being designed FOR trucks by an OEM supplier, they should stop like crazy. I've been wanting to do them to my '06 but the cost has kept me away for now. I would also guess that a 20" wheel may be a limiting factor; might require 22's, not sure - I do recall seeing something in the application notes about the wheel type but they mention RPO codes for the current trucks. By the way, props to Ryan for speaking honestly about the Z06 brake swap. A lot of people won't admit when they've laid out the money and effort for something that just doesn't make much of an improvement. I was a little concerned when I did the Hellcat Brembo 6 piston/15.4" front swap on my 300C SRT8, which replaces the Brembo 4 piston/14.1" front setup. Some claim "it's no different on the street, just good for the track" but I will tell you the car stops REALLY well for 4K+ lbs. The 4 piston setup stopped pretty damn good already but I can tell an improvement. Was it worth the $$$? Tough call, but I'm happy with it! Pic attached for reference - that's a 15.4" rotor inside a 20" wheel; which is my concern about the GM kit with the 16" rotor - MAY NOT fit in a 20" but that's a guess on my part. Richard
  9. 1 point
    I just took receipt of a 2003 SSS with less than 36K miles (100% stock) to replace my 04 that was stolen while serving in Afghanistan. Insurance only paid $12,700 so I had to pony up a few more bucks. So now I'm vigorously throwing all the previous upgrades at it. Installed the CORSA yesterday in my driveway, that was dumb, had to break out the saws-all. Should've gone to the hobby shop on base. Retrax gets here today, easy install. I had the Z06 brake mod on the '04 but I understand Rudy's no longer making the brackets, so I'm looking at the Wilwood 16" brakes. I still have the Belltech 2/2 spindle kit in boxes that never got installed so I'll take a chance and see if it'll work with the Wilwoods. Oh yeah and just replaced the original tires with brand new Eagle LS-2. Yes, the truck still had the original Eagle LS tires, so the center caps hadn't been dicked with and are mint. Last thing... I had the Revelco anti theft device installed, so nobody's taking this truck.
  10. 1 point
    Hi If your interested in keeping the NV149 (AWD) option, you can upgrade the chain from 1.25' to 1.5". NP. For the NP149, New Process never installed a 1.5" chain, nor do we see it in the parts books, But if you look into the NP263HD. this unit - and maybe others, have the 1.25" chain (same PN) as the NV149, but also have the 1.5" chain & sprockets as a HD option. I bought and installed the 1.5" kit. Little close to the Viscous Clutch body but does clear it.
  11. 1 point
    Hey Janet if your truck is an Intimidator it doesn't have SS logo headrests; it has the DEI (Dale Earnhardt Inc.) logo instead. They are limited edition, no doubt, 933 of them made for 2006 and that's it. All the other SS trucks 2003-2007 have SS logos on the headrests. Gonna be hard to find; every once in a while they come up for sale here and they're not cheap. Good luck. These are the Intimidator SS headrests.. Richard
  12. 1 point
  13. 1 point
  14. 1 point
    Black Bear Performance Custom Tuning is coming to Texas, October 25-27, 2019! - 1998-2016 GM Vehicles - Dallas - Ft Worth, TX - $100 deposit, $250 balance at time of tune (total $350) Discounts Available For details, please see http://www.blackbearperformance.com/calendar.asp Black Bear Performance is your premier GM V8 Car, Truck and SUV custom tuner with over 16,000 customers served.
  15. 1 point
    We would be happy to help with tuning. We are not located in the Pittsburgh area but we specialize in tuning by mail or email, and we have options to see your vehicle data before we tune. Let us know if you have any questions. Thanks
  16. 1 point
    si es una Intimidator, si mira todos los RPO Codes bien, puede encontrar el code que dice "SSI".
  17. 1 point
  18. 1 point
    The build looks great man! I'll pray for the 4L60 ๐Ÿ˜‚
  19. 1 point
    Just responding to this in case anyone else sees it. I still make the adapters, just shoot me a PM and we can get you set up.
  20. 1 point
    Bro with the price of eBay headers being almost free these days, itโ€™s going to be hard to find someone to buy a used set. Clearly those are well made quality headers and probaly cost a grip new. They donโ€™t care about anything but getting the best deal. Even tho they will get those polished stainless headers off eBay and have to hammer a tube almost shit so it clears the steering and 2 weeks later the chrome is gone any they look like shit all pitted like they are 20 years old and leaking thatโ€™s a whole nother story lol. If I had extra money I would take them off your hands. I have a few extra high end car audio amps laying around if you want to make a trade lol.cool exhaust man good luck selling it and if you wanna trade or just dump the to get them out of your way let me know atleast I will appreciate the American made quality lol
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
    Welcome, Not sure what to tell you on fair price but that's pretty low miles for a 2003! Well even for any year of Silverado SS at this point but especially a first year truck. If it's from your local area I'd inspect it VERY closely for rust although with 35K miles I seriously doubt it was driven in any bad weather. At any rate the hard lines for brakes and fuel tend to rust out very quickly on this generation of trucks if they're ever exposed to road salt or possibly even salt air (like from the coast) so check 'em as closely as possible. With those miles I'd say it's unlikely to have signs of problems of any kind. Some believe that low mile older vehicles are full of problems but I'm not one of those. One exception would be the tires; if it has ancient tires (check the date codes) then you'll want to replace them immediately - even if they're not dry rotted. If it does have any odd details, post back with your findings and others can offer advice. The truck is probably worth well upwards of $15K if it's clean. Richard
  23. 1 point
    The ss clone, repainted the front bumper cover and some of the side cladding, replaced hood latch, add hose clamps. On the 03 SS I did all the fluid changes in the drivetrain, replace the oil sensor, it was malfunctioned and leaking.
  24. 1 point
    Belltech shackles #6400 ๐Ÿ‘
  25. 1 point
    Was going through my storage and found a box with my stock air intake assembly. As I recall, I had my K&N cold air intake installed 4 days after I bought my SS new. The photos show the #15769060 lower assembly and the SFI/H02S/TWC air filter housing and catalyst with the OEM filter inside. The entire unit probably had 25 - 30 miles on it since I drove the truck home from the dealer, next day to have the exhaust system installed and then two days later had the intake system replaced. I want $140 for the setup and will quote a shipping price if you give me your zip code. I will accept PayPal as a gift transaction or, in the rare case that you are anywhere near Tyler, Texas, we can arrange a face to face transaction.
  26. 1 point
    Finally had 2 minutes to open the box and check out the parts. Absolutely as described; other than a tiny amount of storage dust this air intake is like factory new, including the filter element. Thanks for the easy transaction and nice parts! Richard
  27. 1 point
    Having one driveshaft out will allow the t-case to spin, and the truck to roll, even in park.
  28. 1 point
    If its still moving and not making noise, you might be alright. I'd put the diff back in and go, but I'm a cheap [email protected] Might not hurt to have a t-case located, as a plan B.
  29. 1 point
    Makes no difference on the motor size, youd have to check the RPO codes in the glove box. K68=105 amp, KG3=145 amp, KW1=160 amp. The vast majority of trucks are KG3's.
  30. 1 point
    Escaldes and denalis are all 3.73. you can grab a 4.10 out of a Silverado/avalanche/Tahoe/suburban 4x4 and switch the pass. Side axle tube, with your awd style axle tube. That's the only difference. On the t-case, as long as it was an NP3 optioned (not NR3) it's a direct replacement as well.
  31. 1 point
    Yep, don't get the auto parts store/hardware store double faced tape. go to a real body shop supply place and get the real stuff. Its also no real cheap, but you'll find lots of stuff to use it for.
  32. 1 point
    1fastbrick answered you over on PT forums and I did too but no harm in duplicating the answer here in case it helps someone else, 3M VHB tape from the body/paint supply. Gray tape with the cherry red backing. It's super strong. And, use wax/grease remover prep spray on the panel first. Richard
  33. 1 point
    I got my switchbacks from headlightrevolution.com , they are the "GTR Lighting Carbide Series 3156 / 3157 LED Bulbs, C/K Compatible" I haven't had any problems at all with strobing or any other issues with them. They were pretty expensive, 40$ a set, but I think they were worth it. I'll take a short video and upload it if you're interested. I haven't been too active on here because no one is really paying attention to this thread as far as I can tell.
  34. 1 point
    The 2004 Denali has the wrong transfer case. It has a BW transfer case. But.....the BW transfer case seriously blows. It's basically acting like an open diff and sends power to whatever wheel that wants to spin. When you start making enough power to spin in AWD, it really really starts to suck. Most guys will swap at the Silverado SS transfer case, the NVG149 or NP149 (same case, New Process bought New Venture Gear). I'd highly recommend swapping to the NVG149 case and running my input gear to mate it to the 4L80E. The NVG149 will split roughly 38% of the power to the front and 62% of the power to the rear, it acts like a posi differential and actually splits the power front to back and makes for a much better driving experience with big power.
  35. 1 point
    hasn't been on the site since he posted this over a month ago ๐Ÿคจ hate when people do that lol
  36. 1 point
  37. 1 point
    Damm... your truck hauls ass for an olโ€™ Heavy ext cab...
  38. 1 point
    Things are good over here Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  39. 1 point
    Havent posted here in a minute, hope everyone is doing good. Heres an update on how the truck currently looks.
  40. 1 point
    Old post bump haha When I had my 350z I didn't drive it in the winter for I had my crown Vic also at the time. I didn't see the point of washing two cars to keep the salt off it. In a few years I'll probably do the same thing when I get my mustang or older muscle car. I never got the people who store there 5000$ cars over winter or 4wd trucks then struggle with there winter beaters over winter to keep them going. Like my Harley can't really ride it when there is snow and ice on the ground. Some things make sense but others don't.
  41. 1 point
    Yes! I bought my in 08 with 65,000 and I just hit 188,000! Paid off too!
  42. 1 point
    I've owned mine since 2006 bought with 60,000 and it's creeping up on 200,000 still love it best part it's payed in full
  43. 1 point
    Here's a power steering pump removal and install how to video
  44. 1 point
    With all the questions about shift kits and servos that appear on here, I figured I would make some attempt at a write up for this. Been pecking away on this for awhile so hopefully this will help some of you thinking about tackling this or wondering what this consists of. Here we go..... Intro For all you guys wanting or wondering about how and what it takes to upgrade your 4L60E and 4L65E transmissions, this will give you an idea of what you will be getting into. Personally if you are mechanically inclined and have basic hand tools YOU CAN DO THIS. Transmissions can be intimidating due to all the small parts and the amount of parts internally. But if you do your research, read carefully, take your time, keep things organized, clean, and double check your work it can be accomplished. What is the point of a shift kit/servo upgrade? The best way to describe this (at least that I can describe) is to use the word "overlap". On a bone stock transmission, overlap is referring to the softness between upshifts (1-2, 2-3, 3-4) and also downshifts. For example, when you ride your brakes while driving the pads will fail and wear a lot sooner and generate heat right? Take that and convert it over to what happens in a transmission. When your transmission is shifting into a higher gear, the lower gear has not fully released all the way. So for the short time the transmission is in two gears at once they are essentially "slipping" as one or the other has not fully engaged. Hence the saying "overlap". This is also happens on a downshift as well. This generates heat and removes clutch and band lining at a greater rate. As well as glazing/polishing the clutches, steels, drums, band, ectWhen you install a "shift kit" and servo upgrade you are positively modifying the valve bodies ability to apply and/or direct fluid to the clutch or band apply circuit. This firms or quickens shifts by releasing and applying circuits more efficiently and reducing "overlap". Now for those who ask "will my transmission hold up by doing this for so and so mods / horsepower?" There is not answer to that. Again this is a process to help the longevity of the stock 60E due to the issues above. This will not correct breaking of input/output shafts, pinion failure, reaction sun shell breaking, ect. With all that happens inside a transmission its hard to tell whats gonna break first with all the variables for a failure. What parts to use There are a good handful of parts and pieces out there to choose from when it comes to this upgrade The parts listed below are parts that I have used and have had good experience with. So I will suggest these to you. I am not at all saying the other parts on the market are inferior such as Trans-Go as many run their product with good luck, but I have not heard anything as far as negative feedback with these. First off, you can easily find 90% of these parts on this website http://www.transmiss...r.net/4l60e.htm. You might have to hunt around a little on the site for the parts but you will find them. They should be in descending order through the web page. I will have the part number first, part name, and a little description as to what it is and why to use it. #2 โ€“ 4L60E Corvette 2nd Intermediate Servo : This is the servo that comes in high performance Corvettes and Camaros. It has a greater fluid apply surface area which in turn will apply or "grab" the 2-4 band more efficiently. Other options are the Superior and Sonnax 2nds. I have ran both the Corvette and Superior 2nd in different transmissions and in my opinion one isnt any better than the other as far as applying. They both felt the same. There is thought you will get a better 2-3 shift from the Superior and Sonnax, but for the money the Corvette is by far the best bang for the buck. #3 โ€“ 4L60E high performance overdrive 4th servo : Made by Sonnax and has a 40% more holding power (fluid apply area) than the factory 4th. This will not remedy the weak 3-4 clutch pack 60E's are known to have but will obviously help (which is the point of this whole write-up) #27 โ€“ 4L60E / 4L65E oversize .490" pressure boost valve and sleeve. The stock size is .470" and the larger diameter valve will yield a 10% to 15% higher line pressure. Instead of drilling the factory sleeve with the drill bit supplied in the shift kit, you will just replace factory ones with these. #37AP2 โ€“ 4L60E Billet Forward Accumulator. This piston goes in the valve body and cushions the shock when shifting from reverse to drive. Very common for the factory plastic piston to wear or crack. This will result in fluid loss, delayed engagement, slipping, burned clutches and/or band. This is a very cheap part and should most defiantly be replaced. You will replace a spring or springs in this bore so replace this! #37AP โ€“ 4L60E 3-4 factory accumulator piston. These are aluminum from the factory but have a tendency for the center hole to wear resulting in loss of pressure. Again, you will have this out so replace this! #37AP3 โ€“ 4L60E 1-2 factory accumulator piston. Same issue as above. Replace due to having out. #K4L60E-L โ€“ Superior Shift Kit fits 1998 and up. Self explanatory. As stated above, I am suggesting this kit due to the fact of the positive feedback I have had from it, and others as well. You will need to get this from your local GM Dealer. P/N 24221349 - GM Updated Valve Body Spacer Plate and Gasket set. Reason behind replacing this is the factory separator plates had an issue with the checkballs deeply wearing into the plate and sometimes all the way through. My factory transmission had shy over 30k miles on it, and one of the checkballs by the 1-2 accumulator housing had worn a pretty good groove in the plate already. Dont remember the cost, but it wasnt bad. Fluid Filter and Pan Gasket Kit You will need a fluid filter and pan gasket kit. You can either get this from your GM dealer while you are there or your local O'Reilly, Napa, ect. Fluid For fluid brand, that is up to you. To be honest, O'Reilly ATF is perfectly fine and is what I use and many others as well. If you feel you need to have a brand name such as Valvoline go for it. Pick up a case, you will have extra but you can take the extra back or keep it for future instances. Always good to have ATF on the shelf. Fluid Friction Modifier While you are at your local O'Reillys, pick up a bottle of Platinum Lube Guard transmission fluid friction modifier. What is this you say? In a nut shell, all ATF has some sort of friction modifier in them. They are chemical additives in the fluid that effect how the transmission feels when it shifts gears. Specs vary to one make or model to the other, hence the variety of ATF's out there. As miles add up, or "abuse" is given to the trans heat and consistent shearing of the internal parts break down ATF. When this happens one of the first things that goes is the friction modifiers in the fluid. When this happens shifts may become rough and jerky. Ever heard of someone saying when they changed transmission fluid and filter it shifts so much better? Wala. When filling your transmission up with new fluid, pour a bottle of this in with it. Misc A few other odds and ends you should have when doing this. If you have access to Vaseline you will need a tiny bit to keep the checkballs in place during re installation. Also 3-4 cans of brake clean. Tools 1/4 ratchet 3/8 ratchet Various metric sockets and wrenches Flat blade screwdriver 1/4 or 3 /8 torque wrench Various picks if applicable Handle to pry servo cover with Drill How โ€“ To Write Up I dont have many pictures with this but it should be self explanatory in its own. I have provided the instructions from the shift kit itself with a few notes on them to aid in the installation. You can install this upgrade in two different ways. One with the transmission in the truck or with the transmission out on the bench. Usually if its on the bench you are installing a converter as well. But this can be accomplished with the transmission still in the truck. A little tip if doing it in the truck. If you have the time, get the fluid drained the night before and let the excess drip overnight. This will be much easier than having trans fluid dripping down your arms or in your eyes. If you do this, be smart about it. You dont want to leave the transmission open to foreign elements such as excessive dust and debris. Secure truck on level ground with proper jackstands or safe lifting mechanism. (if you have access to a lift, then you are the man) Remove exhaust. All you need to remove is the mid pipe from the left (drivers) bank coming across to the right. (you pacesetter guys that weld your collectors, you will need to figure something out!) On the left side of the transmission you will find your shift linkage. You can take a flat screwdriver and pop the cable from the linkage rod. You will then see a cable bracket thats bolted to the trans case. Dont try to take this bracket off. There is a metal "U" clip that holds the cable in the bracket. Once you pry out the clip, depress the tabs on the cable and shimmy out the cable from the bracket. Set aside. Most likely you guys will be doing this on the floor so the front of the truck will be higher than the rear making the fluid in the pan slosh to the rear of the pan. Loosen the bolts to where fluid will start dripping out of the rear of the pan, then slowly loosen the others. When a steady flow of fluid stops coming out you can shimmy the pan from the cable bracket and set aside. You kinda have drop the right side of the pan down first then take it will come free from the bracket.(you guys that already have a drain plug in your pan, you just made your fluid draining experience easier and less messy) Now you will see your fluid filter. To loosen kind of move side to side till you free it up a bit. Then gently remove. Next is the manual detent spring by the rooster comb. Remove Next is to disconnect all electrical connections. There should be 6-7 connectors. Then last there is two bolts holding the TCC (torque converter clutch) solenoid in place. This is located at the front of the valve body, follow the wiring and you will find it. NOTE: Do not try to remove the entire harness from the case. There is a special way to get the connector out of the case and there is no need to do it. So just tie it up out of your way. Next should be your transmission fluid pressure manual valve position switch. Kind of looks like a circuit board by the rooster comb. Should be 5 bolts holding it on, 3 big and 2 small. REMEMBER WHERE THE BOLTS GO. When reinstalling if you get a big bolt in the smaller hole and go to torque, you will bottom out the bolt and snap it off in the case! Next is the fluid indicator stop bracket. This is located on the opposite side of the rooster comb in the front corner. Next is to loosen the valve body. Again it is crucial you remember what bolts go where as there are different size bolts for the valve body. There are three bolts with 8mm heads and the rest have 10mm heads. Before you remove all the bolts, you will see the 8mm bolts surround the 1-2 accumulator housing. Remember this when you are reassembling to grab your 8mm's and surround the 1-2 accum. There is one small 10mm bolt that goes between the 1-2 accumulator and fluid indicator stop bracket. The rest are explanitory. Once you loosen the VB, you will have to take off the link to the manual valve. (again by the rooster comb).Be careful when pulling down the VB as there are check balls that will come down with it that is between the VB and case. When reassembling, you can use vaseline and apply it where the checkballs go according to the shift kit instructions. This will help keep the checkballs in place while lifting the VB in place. Also the one checkball that goes in the case this will keep it up in there as well. You dont have to get crazy with the vaseline either, just a dab to keep everything from moving will do. Next is to remove the 1-2 accumulator housing. This is located in the rear corner of the case. There are 2 small bolts and 1 large. Set aside Next is the spacer support plate. Should be 3 bolts 8mm heads all same size Remove gaskets and spacer plate. Next is the servo assembly. There is a round snap ring that holds the assembly in the case. Doing this in the truck can be kind of tricky. You will need to depress the servo into the transmission, then pry out the metal snap ring. Again, this could be difficult while in the truck. If you are doing this on the bench, secure the trans on the table, take the bottom end of a hammer handle or any type of handle and depress the servo in the case then pry out the snap ring. Once you get the snap ring out, there will be a black (if I remember right is factory and blue is aftermarket) o-ring for the servo cover. You will have this o-ring in your servo kit so you can pry some of the o-ring out then cut it. Remove and the servo assembly should pull right out. NOTE: keep the assembly in tact until you go to swap the 2nd and 4th apply servos later. That way you dont get confused on what goes where. Here are the instructions I scanned. Hopefully they are big enough to read. And yes, my hand writing is horrible LOL NOTE: when performing step 8, make sure when you are installing the plug, not to install with something that will puncture through the plug. Use something that will cover the surface area of the plug and tap it in very slow. Make sure its in there too, you will know when it is seated. NOTE: after the servo installation, double and triple check your round snap ring that hold the asssembly in the case. It is common for guys to mis this and not have the ring fully seated in the case. Trust me, you dont want to have this happen! NOTE: if you have had your truck tuned by one of the tuners on the site (Wheatley, Blackbear, Zippy) or had someone local. Have them clear your adaptive shifts in your tune and adjust the torque managment. Remember, you want some torque managment set in still and do not want to clear it 100% especially for the 2-3 shift. Having a transmission that breaks your neck when shifting isnt neccessary. You will break hard parts in a hurry. Good clean, crisp shifts is what we are after here. Now that you have everything apart you can start the assembly process. Get our your instructions start from the top. I have attached the instructions with a few little notes to go along with it. Tighten all VB bolts inside pan to roughly 8-10 ft lbs. Again be sure you get your bolts in the right holes!! When re-filling transmision with fluid, make sure truck is on level ground. Start by pouring in 4-5 quarts then check. Remember you still have fluid in the torque converter (if you did this in the truck) When you see fluid on the dipstick start the truck and get to operating temperature. While truck is warming up, check for any obvious leaks. Set the parking brake and put the transmission ins nuetral position. Then fill as needed.. Then put the truck in drive and make sure it engages all gears (D,3,2,1) and reverse. Road test. Monitor for transmission engaging all gears correctly and downshifts. Recheck for leaks after test. Summary This might seem like a tall task to handle but it really isnt. Again if you are mechanically inclined you can do it. The best thing you can do is stay clean. Stay organized. (OCD is not a bad thing in this case). Double check your work, if anything triple check if it makes you feel better. If there is anything in this I might have missed (a tool, part, ect) please chime in and I will add it to the list. Im pretty sure I got everything.
  45. 1 point
    Hello Everyone, This is just a friendly reminder that the "How To" forum is not a place to ask questions. It is not a place to ask for help. It is not a place to request a "How To". This forum is meant only for members who wish to post the specific steps to complete a project or modification of some sort. Think of it as the "sticky" section. All posts in here could potentially be a "sticky" that is put up for all to read and gain information on how to do something to there SS. So, from here on out, please only post in this section if you have directions on how to do a modification, complete a task, or steps to take to resolve a problem. Thanks.
  46. 1 point
    You are moving in the right direction, ball joints may or may not be part of your issue, but any time you see a torn boot is a bad thing. Water and road dirt can get into the joint and degrade it in time. In terms of how your truck handles, also check your Pitman and Idler Arms, worn ones will dramamtically change how your truck handles. The wobble in your front end over bumps could very well be blown shocks. Also, make sure to check tire pressure if you are pulling to the right, an imbalance in pressure can cause the truck to pull. Take a look at your tire wear, that will tell you if there is an alignment problem. It still won't hurt to have it checked by a competent mechanic. Also, the front end is supposed to be sitting on the bump stops(jounce bumpers), they are an active part of the front suspension.
  47. 1 point
    look for RPO code M32 in your glovebox....... M32 = 4L65E
ร—
ร—
  • Create New...