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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/25/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points
  2. 1 point
    hasn't been on the site since he posted this over a month ago 🤨 hate when people do that lol
  3. 1 point
    @nevrenz was looking for an insert
  4. 1 point
    Had a set of nice OEM housings and the switch from 1Fastbrick sitting around here forever; finally got around to doing mine today, used the bracket info given in this post -> http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/topic/86458-how-to-install-your-fog-light-wiring-to-factory-switch/ - my truck being an '06 the factory wiring is already in place so I just needed to make brackets and add the parts. I used plain 1 x 1/8" steel flat bar to make the brackets. Thought about using aluminum and it probably would have been fine at that thickness, but I wanted to be sure they wouldn't flex at all. Used cutoff wheel to zip off some 5" sections then drilled the holes 1/4" with one end a little offset as shown in that thread, then cleaned up all the edges with the die grinder. Even with the 1/8" thickness I was able to attach them without issue using the studs poking up from the bumper cover brackets above the brake ducts. I used stainless fasteners since they sit right above the lens, didn't want moisture causing any rust to drip down on them. Mocking up the bracket using a piece of cardboard just to be sure First set made, checking the fit and operation Side view behind the brake duct, I think I want to cut out some vinyl to cover up the excess lens area and prevent light bleed-through around the duct Other set made, both lights in place and operating Popped 'em back apart to paint the brackets to prevent rust, now that I know they fit how I want them to Easy job...next up I'll order either some high power LED's or maybe HID's to go in them; probably go with LED as HID seem to be obnoxiously bright in this application. Richard
  5. 1 point
    The factory OEM Grills already come painted From GM. The last two I purchased (06-07 style) where around $500 My cost and I had to wait for them to come out from Detroit.
  6. 1 point
    I still have my ss it has 64000 miles on it. One fender has rust and I need to clean it up underneath. I moved to Georgia from New York and just took it for emissions test. Everyone there was drooling over it. Not very many arrival blues left!
  7. 1 point
    2005 SS with forged dished pistons, forged rods, ls3 heads with stainless steel valves and trunnion bear upgrade, 76/75mm trick performance turbo kit, devilsown meth kit, 40k trumax oil cooler, Texas speed cam 222/228, ls2 timing chain, built 4l60 with stage two shift kit and yank3600 stall, 120lb injectors, dual walbro 450 fuel pump with -10 feed lines and -8 return, 92mm holly hi-ram intake. Soon will be tuned for E85.
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  9. 1 point
    Old post bump haha When I had my 350z I didn't drive it in the winter for I had my crown Vic also at the time. I didn't see the point of washing two cars to keep the salt off it. In a few years I'll probably do the same thing when I get my mustang or older muscle car. I never got the people who store there 5000$ cars over winter or 4wd trucks then struggle with there winter beaters over winter to keep them going. Like my Harley can't really ride it when there is snow and ice on the ground. Some things make sense but others don't.
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  11. 1 point
    The pan has a sump(deep spot, like a bowl) in the front that holds about an extra quart and keeps fluid flowing better on hard launches, cornering, and off road. It accomplishes this because the filter inside has a slightly longer suction tube that reaches down into the sump, always sucking pure deep fluid. No matter what the situation, I prefer my transmission flowing as well as possible, and without air bubbles. Especially the 1-2 shift at the track for example, if that's your thing. Or towing through hills, with hard shifts on an incline. It keeps the fluid from all sloshing to the back or sides, causing the filter to intermittently suck air. The C5 Corvette takes the same transmission pan as the Silverado with 4L60E, only in the C5 it is UPGRADED with this pan and filter, servos, etc... so why not? I'm replacing the pan anyway while I have it off, the cost over oem is minimal. At $76 it is a fraction of the cost of the deeper aftermarket pans which just hold more fluid, but do nothing to always contain the fluid directly under the transmission filter suction tube. Also this is a way to get a cheap pan that holds an extra quart of fluid, even if your exhaust Y or X pipe is up too close in the back for a full width, deep pan. Along with the other benefits, even if you deem those questionable. And as I stated myself days ago in another thread... I'm sure it's overkill for my daily driver, but this is America and I want one.
  12. 1 point
    Due to an over popular cam spec requesting this is a new cam help guide and posting. If you want to review the cams here, feel free and ask all you'd like in this post. Want a cam recomdation or have a question on a specific cam, just post it in here. Info for cams needed is... Year of truck: Model: Trans: Converter: Gear: Tires: List of current mods: Possible future mods: Goals for truck: Uses of the truck: Cam list: Comp Cams: XR259HR...206/212 .515/.522 112LSA. Great cam for a stock truck looking to make big low rpm torque and use a stock torque converter. Better suited to a 4.8L or very mild 5.3L. Recomended torque converter would be no more than a 3000 for a 4.8L or 5.3L and stock or 2600 for a 6.0L. Recomended valve springs would be LS6 GM springs. XR265HR...212/218 .522/.529 114LSA. Great cam for a stock truck using stock truck exhaust manifolds and either a stock converter or low rpm stall. In a 4.8L or 5.3L I'd recomend a 2600 to 3000 stall. In a 6.0L I'd recomend a stock or 2600 stall, but the 2600 would be better suited to the job. Recomended valve springs would be GM LS6 springs. XR269HR...216/220 .525/.532 114LSA Decent cam for a bolt on type truck running shorty headers or long tubes. Stock manifolds could be used, but headers would be a bigger gain at this point. For a 4.8L this is a fairly agressive cam and I'd recomend at least a 2800 to 3200 stall. For a 5.3L and 6.0L a 2600 to 3000 stall would do the job nicely. This cam isn't really recomended for gains with it's low lift and bigger duration. Other than great valve spring life there isn't much reason to run it. Recomended valve springs would be LS6 springs. XR273HR...220/224 .530/.534 112LSA Decent cam for an LQ9 for someone worried about valve spring life. With this much duration and this low of lift I just wouldn't recomend it as a choice for any application. XR277HR...224/228 .534/.537 112LSA Agressive cam for duration and LSA. Not enough lift to make it worth recomending at this duration. XR265HR...212/218 .558/.563 115LSA Very nice cam for a truck with mild exhaust upgrades. Not a recomended cam for a 4.8L or 5.3L as this much split with the small intake valves isn't the way to go. For a 6.0L this cam makes for a nice and mild dail driver with very little lope at idle. Stock converter can be used, but a 2600 stall is recomended. This cam can also be used with a blower or nitrous with decent results. Recomended valve springs would be LS6 spring or Comp 918. XR275HR...222/224 .566/.568 112LSA Very strong cam for a naturally asperated setup. In a 4.8L you'll need a 3000 to 3400 stall. In a 5.3L you'll need a 2600 minimum and best results at 3000 stall. With a 6.0L I'd recomend a 2600 to 3000 stall depending on how agressive you want the launch. This is a very good cam for torque in the middle rpm range. Recomended to use shorty headers or long tubes. You may also need an injector upgrade at this point. With good tuning the idle will be a bit choppy, but yet still very streetable and will make for a nice daily driver with some bite. Not recomended for nitrous or Supercharger. Recomended springs are LS6 springs or 918's. XR281HR...228/230 .571/.573 112LSA Very strong cam for a naturally asperated setup. Not recomended for a 4.8L or 5.3L. An L33 5.3L H.O. could run this cam with it's increased compression, but would require a 3200 to 3600 stall to be happy with it's results. In a 6.0L I would only recomend this for an LQ9 with it's increased compression and it could be ran with less stall due to it's cubes and compression. In an LQ9 I'd recomend long tube headers, LS6 or Fast style intake, and larger injectors. I'd recomend a 2800 to 3400 stall behind an LQ9 with this cam. Idle even tuned in perfectly will be choppy and will make for a decent daily driver as long as you aren't in heavy traffic. Not recomended for supercharger or nitrous. Recomended springs would be 918's. XER273HR...224/230 .581/.591 114LSA Very similar power band to the XR281HR, except with a better idle and better drivability. I would not recomend this for anything smaller than a 6.0L either. Recomended to run a shorty or long tube header. Larger injectors will be needed. I'd recomend a 2600 to 3000 stall for this cam. If it is well tuned in the idle is lopey, but not unacceptable for a daily driver. This cam will also work ok with L92 style cylinder heads. It happens to be one of the cams that Livernois has chosen for it's L92 package. Will work nicely with nitrous or a blower. MP122 or bigger for Magnacharger or D1SC for Procharger. Recomended springs would be 918's or 921's. XER281HR...232/234 .595/.598 112LSA Pretty much a cam built for no smaller than a 6.0L. If you want to run a cam like this you'll want more than the stock compression of an LQ9. I'd say no less than 10.5:1 compression. You'll also want a car intake for this rpm range. With a 6.0L you'll want a 3200 stall or higher. This cam is better suited to bigger inch such as 6.7L and bigger. Not recomended for boost or juice. Recomended springs would be 921's or Partriot Dual Gold's. XER287HR...238/240 .605/.609 112LSA If you want to run this with a 6.0L, shoot for 11:1 compression or higher, a stall of 3600 or higher, 1 7/8 headers, and a Fast intake. This would make for a nice agressive cam in a 6.7L or bigger that can still be daily driven. More cubes of course wouldn't require as much stall. Recomended springs would be Patriot Dual Golds. Texas Speed: Thunder Racing: Trick Flow: TFS-30602001...216/220 .560/.560 114LSA TFS-30602002...220/224 .575/.575 112LSA TFS-30602003...228/230 .585/.585 112LSA Still updating...
  13. 1 point
    If you didn't buy 1/4 watt 470 ohlm resistors then you just wasted a bunch of your time. If they burnt out right away like your saying then the resistors are all wrong. You need to read the first thread of this post I explain which ones to use for a reason and it wasn't for my health... sorry man.
  14. 1 point
    Brackets - off center holes were 1/4" and centered were 5/16" to work with bolts I used. These are the mounted brackets I made for mine. Here you can see why the holes aren't centered on the mounting end. Mounted
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