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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/14/2018 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    Blackbear, does all my tuning with EFILIVE on my 03 Silverado ss
  2. 2 points
    Due to an over popular cam spec requesting this is a new cam help guide and posting. If you want to review the cams here, feel free and ask all you'd like in this post. Want a cam recomdation or have a question on a specific cam, just post it in here. Info for cams needed is... Year of truck: Model: Trans: Converter: Gear: Tires: List of current mods: Possible future mods: Goals for truck: Uses of the truck: Cam list: Comp Cams: XR259HR...206/212 .515/.522 112LSA. Great cam for a stock truck looking to make big low rpm torque and use a stock torque converter. Better suited to a 4.8L or very mild 5.3L. Recomended torque converter would be no more than a 3000 for a 4.8L or 5.3L and stock or 2600 for a 6.0L. Recomended valve springs would be LS6 GM springs. XR265HR...212/218 .522/.529 114LSA. Great cam for a stock truck using stock truck exhaust manifolds and either a stock converter or low rpm stall. In a 4.8L or 5.3L I'd recomend a 2600 to 3000 stall. In a 6.0L I'd recomend a stock or 2600 stall, but the 2600 would be better suited to the job. Recomended valve springs would be GM LS6 springs. XR269HR...216/220 .525/.532 114LSA Decent cam for a bolt on type truck running shorty headers or long tubes. Stock manifolds could be used, but headers would be a bigger gain at this point. For a 4.8L this is a fairly agressive cam and I'd recomend at least a 2800 to 3200 stall. For a 5.3L and 6.0L a 2600 to 3000 stall would do the job nicely. This cam isn't really recomended for gains with it's low lift and bigger duration. Other than great valve spring life there isn't much reason to run it. Recomended valve springs would be LS6 springs. XR273HR...220/224 .530/.534 112LSA Decent cam for an LQ9 for someone worried about valve spring life. With this much duration and this low of lift I just wouldn't recomend it as a choice for any application. XR277HR...224/228 .534/.537 112LSA Agressive cam for duration and LSA. Not enough lift to make it worth recomending at this duration. XR265HR...212/218 .558/.563 115LSA Very nice cam for a truck with mild exhaust upgrades. Not a recomended cam for a 4.8L or 5.3L as this much split with the small intake valves isn't the way to go. For a 6.0L this cam makes for a nice and mild dail driver with very little lope at idle. Stock converter can be used, but a 2600 stall is recomended. This cam can also be used with a blower or nitrous with decent results. Recomended valve springs would be LS6 spring or Comp 918. XR275HR...222/224 .566/.568 112LSA Very strong cam for a naturally asperated setup. In a 4.8L you'll need a 3000 to 3400 stall. In a 5.3L you'll need a 2600 minimum and best results at 3000 stall. With a 6.0L I'd recomend a 2600 to 3000 stall depending on how agressive you want the launch. This is a very good cam for torque in the middle rpm range. Recomended to use shorty headers or long tubes. You may also need an injector upgrade at this point. With good tuning the idle will be a bit choppy, but yet still very streetable and will make for a nice daily driver with some bite. Not recomended for nitrous or Supercharger. Recomended springs are LS6 springs or 918's. XR281HR...228/230 .571/.573 112LSA Very strong cam for a naturally asperated setup. Not recomended for a 4.8L or 5.3L. An L33 5.3L H.O. could run this cam with it's increased compression, but would require a 3200 to 3600 stall to be happy with it's results. In a 6.0L I would only recomend this for an LQ9 with it's increased compression and it could be ran with less stall due to it's cubes and compression. In an LQ9 I'd recomend long tube headers, LS6 or Fast style intake, and larger injectors. I'd recomend a 2800 to 3400 stall behind an LQ9 with this cam. Idle even tuned in perfectly will be choppy and will make for a decent daily driver as long as you aren't in heavy traffic. Not recomended for supercharger or nitrous. Recomended springs would be 918's. XER273HR...224/230 .581/.591 114LSA Very similar power band to the XR281HR, except with a better idle and better drivability. I would not recomend this for anything smaller than a 6.0L either. Recomended to run a shorty or long tube header. Larger injectors will be needed. I'd recomend a 2600 to 3000 stall for this cam. If it is well tuned in the idle is lopey, but not unacceptable for a daily driver. This cam will also work ok with L92 style cylinder heads. It happens to be one of the cams that Livernois has chosen for it's L92 package. Will work nicely with nitrous or a blower. MP122 or bigger for Magnacharger or D1SC for Procharger. Recomended springs would be 918's or 921's. XER281HR...232/234 .595/.598 112LSA Pretty much a cam built for no smaller than a 6.0L. If you want to run a cam like this you'll want more than the stock compression of an LQ9. I'd say no less than 10.5:1 compression. You'll also want a car intake for this rpm range. With a 6.0L you'll want a 3200 stall or higher. This cam is better suited to bigger inch such as 6.7L and bigger. Not recomended for boost or juice. Recomended springs would be 921's or Partriot Dual Gold's. XER287HR...238/240 .605/.609 112LSA If you want to run this with a 6.0L, shoot for 11:1 compression or higher, a stall of 3600 or higher, 1 7/8 headers, and a Fast intake. This would make for a nice agressive cam in a 6.7L or bigger that can still be daily driven. More cubes of course wouldn't require as much stall. Recomended springs would be Patriot Dual Golds. Texas Speed: Thunder Racing: Trick Flow: TFS-30602001...216/220 .560/.560 114LSA TFS-30602002...220/224 .575/.575 112LSA TFS-30602003...228/230 .585/.585 112LSA Still updating...
  3. 1 point
    Black Bear Performance Custom Tuning is coming to Texas, October 25-27, 2019! - 1998-2016 GM Vehicles - Dallas - Ft Worth, TX - $100 deposit, $250 balance at time of tune (total $350) Discounts Available For details, please see http://www.blackbearperformance.com/calendar.asp Black Bear Performance is your premier GM V8 Car, Truck and SUV custom tuner with over 16,000 customers served.
  4. 1 point
    We would be happy to help with tuning. We are not located in the Pittsburgh area but we specialize in tuning by mail or email, and we have options to see your vehicle data before we tune. Let us know if you have any questions. Thanks
  5. 1 point
    si es una Intimidator, si mira todos los RPO Codes bien, puede encontrar el code que dice "SSI".
  6. 1 point
    De nada. She's real Richard
  7. 1 point
    2005 SS with forged dished pistons, forged rods, ls3 heads with stainless steel valves and trunnion bear upgrade, 76/75mm trick performance turbo kit, devilsown meth kit, 40k trumax oil cooler, Texas speed cam 222/228, ls2 timing chain, built 4l60 with stage two shift kit and yank3600 stall, 120lb injectors, dual walbro 450 fuel pump with -10 feed lines and -8 return, 92mm holly hi-ram intake. Soon will be tuned for E85.
  8. 1 point
    The build looks great man! I'll pray for the 4L60 😂
  9. 1 point
    Just responding to this in case anyone else sees it. I still make the adapters, just shoot me a PM and we can get you set up.
  10. 1 point
    Bro with the price of eBay headers being almost free these days, it’s going to be hard to find someone to buy a used set. Clearly those are well made quality headers and probaly cost a grip new. They don’t care about anything but getting the best deal. Even tho they will get those polished stainless headers off eBay and have to hammer a tube almost shit so it clears the steering and 2 weeks later the chrome is gone any they look like shit all pitted like they are 20 years old and leaking that’s a whole nother story lol. If I had extra money I would take them off your hands. I have a few extra high end car audio amps laying around if you want to make a trade lol.cool exhaust man good luck selling it and if you wanna trade or just dump the to get them out of your way let me know atleast I will appreciate the American made quality lol
  11. 1 point
    Welcome, Not sure what to tell you on fair price but that's pretty low miles for a 2003! Well even for any year of Silverado SS at this point but especially a first year truck. If it's from your local area I'd inspect it VERY closely for rust although with 35K miles I seriously doubt it was driven in any bad weather. At any rate the hard lines for brakes and fuel tend to rust out very quickly on this generation of trucks if they're ever exposed to road salt or possibly even salt air (like from the coast) so check 'em as closely as possible. With those miles I'd say it's unlikely to have signs of problems of any kind. Some believe that low mile older vehicles are full of problems but I'm not one of those. One exception would be the tires; if it has ancient tires (check the date codes) then you'll want to replace them immediately - even if they're not dry rotted. If it does have any odd details, post back with your findings and others can offer advice. The truck is probably worth well upwards of $15K if it's clean. Richard
  12. 1 point
    The ss clone, repainted the front bumper cover and some of the side cladding, replaced hood latch, add hose clamps. On the 03 SS I did all the fluid changes in the drivetrain, replace the oil sensor, it was malfunctioned and leaking.
  13. 1 point
    Belltech shackles #6400 👍
  14. 1 point
    Finally had 2 minutes to open the box and check out the parts. Absolutely as described; other than a tiny amount of storage dust this air intake is like factory new, including the filter element. Thanks for the easy transaction and nice parts! Richard
  15. 1 point
    Was going through my storage and found a box with my stock air intake assembly. As I recall, I had my K&N cold air intake installed 4 days after I bought my SS new. The photos show the #15769060 lower assembly and the SFI/H02S/TWC air filter housing and catalyst with the OEM filter inside. The entire unit probably had 25 - 30 miles on it since I drove the truck home from the dealer, next day to have the exhaust system installed and then two days later had the intake system replaced. I want $140 for the setup and will quote a shipping price if you give me your zip code. I will accept PayPal as a gift transaction or, in the rare case that you are anywhere near Tyler, Texas, we can arrange a face to face transaction.
  16. 1 point
    Having one driveshaft out will allow the t-case to spin, and the truck to roll, even in park.
  17. 1 point
    If its still moving and not making noise, you might be alright. I'd put the diff back in and go, but I'm a cheap [email protected] Might not hurt to have a t-case located, as a plan B.
  18. 1 point
    Makes no difference on the motor size, youd have to check the RPO codes in the glove box. K68=105 amp, KG3=145 amp, KW1=160 amp. The vast majority of trucks are KG3's.
  19. 1 point
    Escaldes and denalis are all 3.73. you can grab a 4.10 out of a Silverado/avalanche/Tahoe/suburban 4x4 and switch the pass. Side axle tube, with your awd style axle tube. That's the only difference. On the t-case, as long as it was an NP3 optioned (not NR3) it's a direct replacement as well.
  20. 1 point
    Yep, don't get the auto parts store/hardware store double faced tape. go to a real body shop supply place and get the real stuff. Its also no real cheap, but you'll find lots of stuff to use it for.
  21. 1 point
    1fastbrick answered you over on PT forums and I did too but no harm in duplicating the answer here in case it helps someone else, 3M VHB tape from the body/paint supply. Gray tape with the cherry red backing. It's super strong. And, use wax/grease remover prep spray on the panel first. Richard
  22. 1 point
    I got my switchbacks from headlightrevolution.com , they are the "GTR Lighting Carbide Series 3156 / 3157 LED Bulbs, C/K Compatible" I haven't had any problems at all with strobing or any other issues with them. They were pretty expensive, 40$ a set, but I think they were worth it. I'll take a short video and upload it if you're interested. I haven't been too active on here because no one is really paying attention to this thread as far as I can tell.
  23. 1 point
    The 2004 Denali has the wrong transfer case. It has a BW transfer case. But.....the BW transfer case seriously blows. It's basically acting like an open diff and sends power to whatever wheel that wants to spin. When you start making enough power to spin in AWD, it really really starts to suck. Most guys will swap at the Silverado SS transfer case, the NVG149 or NP149 (same case, New Process bought New Venture Gear). I'd highly recommend swapping to the NVG149 case and running my input gear to mate it to the 4L80E. The NVG149 will split roughly 38% of the power to the front and 62% of the power to the rear, it acts like a posi differential and actually splits the power front to back and makes for a much better driving experience with big power.
  24. 1 point
    hasn't been on the site since he posted this over a month ago 🤨 hate when people do that lol
  25. 1 point
    @nevrenz was looking for an insert
  26. 1 point
    Had a set of nice OEM housings and the switch from 1Fastbrick sitting around here forever; finally got around to doing mine today, used the bracket info given in this post -> http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/topic/86458-how-to-install-your-fog-light-wiring-to-factory-switch/ - my truck being an '06 the factory wiring is already in place so I just needed to make brackets and add the parts. I used plain 1 x 1/8" steel flat bar to make the brackets. Thought about using aluminum and it probably would have been fine at that thickness, but I wanted to be sure they wouldn't flex at all. Used cutoff wheel to zip off some 5" sections then drilled the holes 1/4" with one end a little offset as shown in that thread, then cleaned up all the edges with the die grinder. Even with the 1/8" thickness I was able to attach them without issue using the studs poking up from the bumper cover brackets above the brake ducts. I used stainless fasteners since they sit right above the lens, didn't want moisture causing any rust to drip down on them. Mocking up the bracket using a piece of cardboard just to be sure First set made, checking the fit and operation Side view behind the brake duct, I think I want to cut out some vinyl to cover up the excess lens area and prevent light bleed-through around the duct Other set made, both lights in place and operating Popped 'em back apart to paint the brackets to prevent rust, now that I know they fit how I want them to Easy job...next up I'll order either some high power LED's or maybe HID's to go in them; probably go with LED as HID seem to be obnoxiously bright in this application. Richard
  27. 1 point
    The factory OEM Grills already come painted From GM. The last two I purchased (06-07 style) where around $500 My cost and I had to wait for them to come out from Detroit.
  28. 1 point
    I still have my ss it has 64000 miles on it. One fender has rust and I need to clean it up underneath. I moved to Georgia from New York and just took it for emissions test. Everyone there was drooling over it. Not very many arrival blues left!
  29. 1 point
    Havent posted here in a minute, hope everyone is doing good. Heres an update on how the truck currently looks.
  30. 1 point
    Things are good over here Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  31. 1 point
    Old post bump haha When I had my 350z I didn't drive it in the winter for I had my crown Vic also at the time. I didn't see the point of washing two cars to keep the salt off it. In a few years I'll probably do the same thing when I get my mustang or older muscle car. I never got the people who store there 5000$ cars over winter or 4wd trucks then struggle with there winter beaters over winter to keep them going. Like my Harley can't really ride it when there is snow and ice on the ground. Some things make sense but others don't.
  32. 1 point
    Yes! I bought my in 08 with 65,000 and I just hit 188,000! Paid off too!
  33. 1 point
    I've owned mine since 2006 bought with 60,000 and it's creeping up on 200,000 still love it best part it's payed in full
  34. 1 point
    Here's a power steering pump removal and install how to video
  35. 1 point
    The pan has a sump(deep spot, like a bowl) in the front that holds about an extra quart and keeps fluid flowing better on hard launches, cornering, and off road. It accomplishes this because the filter inside has a slightly longer suction tube that reaches down into the sump, always sucking pure deep fluid. No matter what the situation, I prefer my transmission flowing as well as possible, and without air bubbles. Especially the 1-2 shift at the track for example, if that's your thing. Or towing through hills, with hard shifts on an incline. It keeps the fluid from all sloshing to the back or sides, causing the filter to intermittently suck air. The C5 Corvette takes the same transmission pan as the Silverado with 4L60E, only in the C5 it is UPGRADED with this pan and filter, servos, etc... so why not? I'm replacing the pan anyway while I have it off, the cost over oem is minimal. At $76 it is a fraction of the cost of the deeper aftermarket pans which just hold more fluid, but do nothing to always contain the fluid directly under the transmission filter suction tube. Also this is a way to get a cheap pan that holds an extra quart of fluid, even if your exhaust Y or X pipe is up too close in the back for a full width, deep pan. Along with the other benefits, even if you deem those questionable. And as I stated myself days ago in another thread... I'm sure it's overkill for my daily driver, but this is America and I want one.
  36. 1 point
    Hello Everyone, This is just a friendly reminder that the "How To" forum is not a place to ask questions. It is not a place to ask for help. It is not a place to request a "How To". This forum is meant only for members who wish to post the specific steps to complete a project or modification of some sort. Think of it as the "sticky" section. All posts in here could potentially be a "sticky" that is put up for all to read and gain information on how to do something to there SS. So, from here on out, please only post in this section if you have directions on how to do a modification, complete a task, or steps to take to resolve a problem. Thanks.
  37. 1 point
    If you didn't buy 1/4 watt 470 ohlm resistors then you just wasted a bunch of your time. If they burnt out right away like your saying then the resistors are all wrong. You need to read the first thread of this post I explain which ones to use for a reason and it wasn't for my health... sorry man.
  38. 1 point
    You are moving in the right direction, ball joints may or may not be part of your issue, but any time you see a torn boot is a bad thing. Water and road dirt can get into the joint and degrade it in time. In terms of how your truck handles, also check your Pitman and Idler Arms, worn ones will dramamtically change how your truck handles. The wobble in your front end over bumps could very well be blown shocks. Also, make sure to check tire pressure if you are pulling to the right, an imbalance in pressure can cause the truck to pull. Take a look at your tire wear, that will tell you if there is an alignment problem. It still won't hurt to have it checked by a competent mechanic. Also, the front end is supposed to be sitting on the bump stops(jounce bumpers), they are an active part of the front suspension.
  39. 1 point
    Brackets - off center holes were 1/4" and centered were 5/16" to work with bolts I used. These are the mounted brackets I made for mine. Here you can see why the holes aren't centered on the mounting end. Mounted
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