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#718448 Welcome Back!

Posted by Mervz on 15 April 2010 - 12:55 PM

Yo everyone! We're back and running Invision Board 3.0.

Try out the new reputation system by up-voting this post. (bottom right of this)!

Some notes:
- New smilies will be added later
- There are still a few bugs and small fixes needed to be made (mostly cosmetic)
- We're still figuring out how to get Supporting Vendor banners to display correctly and quickly

With that said, if you find anything that does not seem to work as it should, please us know by posting what you find in this thread. :cheers:
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#905805 TBSS INTAKE SWAP

Posted by canadianVRss on 02 May 2013 - 01:16 AM

We need a sticky for this! lol. If your truck is a 2003 you HAVE to convert your fuel system to a returnless setup using the corvette fuel filter if you use the TBSS/NNBS fuel rail. 04+ trucks all have the return-less fuel system already. You WILL need to modify your stock crossover on your fuel rail or use the TBSS/NNBS rail. I was fortunate enough to know a friend with a TBSS and got the TB, Intake, Fuel Rail, and Injectors(30#) from his TBSS for $100 which was a steal. Then you WILL need an X-Link adapter, there is no way around it, $227 after paypal fees. If you use the TBSS injectors you will need injector adapters. mini delphi to ev6. Your stock injectors will work on the TBSS/NNBS fuel rail. You can purchase the evap at o reilys for $15. There is no difference between the NNBS and TBSS intake. The Newer(09+) NNBS truck have a different style throttle body but all TBSS and NNBS throttle bodies are 87mm. I ported mine and will let yall know the gains of the swap after its installed and retuned which will probably be this weekend.
 
recap:
(03 only) corvette fuel filter $40
TBSS TB andTBSS Intake $200ish
X-Link                              $227
Evap                                $15
retune
 
any other questions just ask


You got er. You can use your old evap if you're good at doing a little bit of plumbing. But that's kinda ghetto, I still need to purchase a new gen lV evap.
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#802050 How To: Rear Sway Bar Install

Posted by sinr98 on 06 September 2011 - 01:26 AM

Ok here is a "How To" on a Hellwig 7800 Adjustable Rear Sway Bar Kit.
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I decided to go with this kit for one being the price, and for two the adjustability of it.
Total time to install was 3hrs, with some of the time spent on wire wheeling and painting some of the rear of the frame and components.

Tools needed:
Factory spare tire remover if the spare is still under the truck.
Jack with the capacity to raise the rear.
Jack stands with the capacity to support the weight.
Creeper or cardboard to crawl under the truck.
Ratchet, Wrenches, Sockets, and a Impact of Air Ratchet. (Sockets and wrenches 3/4" and 11/16")
Hammer
Bench vise or press

Start by chocking the front wheels, and raise the rear of the truck up enough to get yourself under there. Put jack stands under the rear axle as far out as possible. Make sure the truck is stable and safe to work under.

Remove the spare tire if you still have it under the bed.

Start assembling the components of the sway bar:
The kit has adjustable end links and a "D" shaped bushing that will need greased with the grease included in the kit.
Apply some grease to the inside of the end link eyelets, and apply some grease to the inside and outside of the "hourglass" bushings that are for the end links.
*note: Clean about half of the threads on the male end link with a bench grinder mounted wire wheel, or some other method of cleaning the paint from the threads. *
Install the "hourglass" bushings in the end link eyelets like so:

Posted Image

I used a vise to install mine, but a press or hammer can also work.
After the bushings are installed in the end links, install the metal bushings inside of the poly bushings. Use a little grease on the outside of the sleeve, and tap them in with a hammer till the sleeve is centered in the bushing.
Apply the lock bolts on the male end links, and thread them about a half inch into the female end link. Use some grease on the threads or some anti-seize to prevent galling the threads and rusting.

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Now move on to the sway bar bushing. The "D" bushing will be placed on the flat spots in between the rear arm and the center hump. Grease the inside and outside of the bushings, and spread them apart and install on to the sway bar. Make sure when you install the sway bar, the drop in the center of the sway bar faces down.

Now crawl under the rear of the truck taking notice to the pass side of the differential. There is a plastic clip style support that holds your brake line and e-brake cable. Lift up on the top part of this and pull the clip off of the axle tube. Using a little bit of pressure, pull the brake line out a little bit (1/4")

Gather your parts for the first set of brackets, and sway bar and get them in position for easy reaching under the truck. The parts are the 2 1/2" u-bolts with the nuts and washers, set of axle brackets that do not have the brackets welded to them, and the sway bar bushing bracket that has the hump in it. *Remember that the drop in the sway bar needs to be facing down*

Place the u-bolts on top of the axle about 2" from the end of the differential center section. Make sure that there are no lines or hoses under them. Now take the axle tube bracket and slide it on to the u-bolt followed by the bushing bracket and put (1) washer and (1) nut on the drive shaft side of the u-bolt leaving the front side of the brackets hanging. Do the same to the other side of the axle.
When both sides have the brackets hanging, put one side of the sway bar up to the brackets and clamp the bushing in to the bracket and slide it on to the u-bolt followed by another wahser and nut. Repeat the same on the other side of the axle. Leave the brackets enough play to move around but still on the loose side.
Center the sway bar to the rear end by using the differential bolts and a center point, and adjust the u-bolts and sway bar bushings in the center of the flat spot on the sway bar.

Posted Image

Now on to the rear of the sway bar:

Install the other set of u-bolts on top of the upper frame cross member making sure not to have any wires or lines under them. They should be placed right next to the exhaust hanger on the pass side and between the shock mount and frame on the drivers side.
Grab the other set of brackets, 4 washers, and 4 lock nuts. Place the brackets into the u-bolts followed by the washers and bolts. These bolts are a PITA to do with a ratchet due to them being a picnhed style nut. I used my little 3/8" impact to run the nuts up and left enough play to be able to adjust the brackets. Do the same to the other side.

Now grab the end links, bolts, washers, and nuts.
Install the top half of the end links first. The top of the end links are the part with the threads on the outside. Now bring the sway bar up to the end links and verify that the end link is to the outside (between the frame and sway bar) of the sway bar. Once the brackets are adjusted to the correct distance lining up to the sway bar, check over the front of the sway bar making sure that there is nothing interfearing with the sway bar. Make sure the axle brackets are parallel to the frame, and still centered on the axle and the bushings are still in the center of the sway bar.

Tighten the front u-bolts to 45lbft with a torque wrench, and apply a second nut to each bolt head and tighten them down.

Now raise the rear of the sway bar back up to the end links. You can start out by adjusting the end links to mount to the rear most hole of the sway bar. You will be checking for 3 things here. First is the end link should be vertical to the frame if looking from the back to front, while also lining up with the outside of the sway bar. Second is the sway bar should be parallel to the frame. Thirs is that the end link should be mounted at a 90* angle to the frame and sway bar. To ge the end link to mount vertical to the sway bar, you might have to rotate the bracket to the front or rear of the truck while adjusting the end link up or down by turning the female end link clockwise or counter clockwise.

They should look like this when done:
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Once everything is mounted and checked for enough clearance between everything, start tightening the rear down. Torque the u-bolts to 40lbft, as well as the top bolts on the end links. Check the alignment of the sway bar as mentioned earlier and adjust accordingly if needed to get the sway bar and end link close to a 90* angle to eachother.
Now torque down the lower bolts to 40lbft.

Jack the rear of the truck up and remove the lack stands and lower the truck. Verify that the sway bar isnt binding up, and that it's not hitting anything under the truck. This can be done by jumping up and down in the bed and listening to anything that may seem out of place. Now raise the truck back up and place the jack stands back under it. Take a look at the sway bar and everything around it to see if it was rubbing on anything. Also double check all the nuts and bolts making sure they are all torqued down.

Install the spare tire if you have one. You will have to put it up at an angle on one side to clear the lower end link bolt. Crank the tire up till it's tight, and drop the truck back down.

Here is the final outcome.

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You might notice that in one of the last pics the tail pipe is missing....... I got the urge to cut it off to see what the sound would be since I was about to take the duals off and put my Borla and e-cutout on. Well it sounds nasty with the cam. I am gonna keep the exhaust like this with the exception of 2 turn downs welded on the end of it to keep it from echoing through the truck. Then it will come off when I put the turbo on and the other exhaust will go on then.

A couple things I would like to mention:

**** I take no responsibility for installation errors, missing data, anything that breaks, or accidents caused by this!!!****
If you are tackling this, you should have the knowledge to check things over and also read the directions given in the kit from the manufacture.
Yes the truck is dirty, and needs some love on the frame. They will be done, and done right when I pull the bed off to do the fuel pump and some other suspension upgrades..... (Stay Tuned for this)

Review of the parts and handling:

Fitment of the kit to the SSS was about a 8.5 out of a 10.
Quality of materials in the kit was about a 8 out of 10.
Handling without any modifications to the sway bar after install so far is a 9 out of 10. This is due to the fact that the truck is so much stiffer on the roads and if you have ever driven on a road in Ohio, you know how they are grooved out, bumpy, and alot of pot holes to make the truck wander a little. But you can feel the difference in cornering and taking a on/off ramp at a higher speed. It has virturally no rear end roll or lean coming out of a turn while giving it some gas.

Over all the kit IMHO is a 9.5 out of 10. Cost of the kit was a huge plus, and the fact that it's adjustable made my decision on the kit a no brainer. :driving:
  • 3


#718810 Video: Silveradoss.Com Part 3

Posted by Josh on 16 April 2010 - 06:27 PM

Name: SilveradoSS.com Part 3
Category: Silverado SS's
Date Added: 16 April 2010 - 07:27 PM
Submitter: Josh
Short Description: None Provided

Enjoy Part III



Props to Dan aka Fireman31 for making this awesome video. Great start to the new videos section...



Dan says stay tuned for Part IV!



:pimp:

View Video
  • 3


#589187 4l80e Nvg-149 32 Spline Input Gear Adapter

Posted by Time2Kill on 23 January 2009 - 01:24 PM

I've been selling these for quite awhile, but I don't think anyone really knows about them. Chuck at FLT has been using them for a few years with excellent success. We have had them in several 800hp+ Silverados and Escalades that have swapped to a 4L80E with the NVG-149 Transfer case. Not a single one has failed yet unlike the turned down output shafts for the 4L80E.

This swap is very easy to to do. You just need to take apart the stock transfer case, pull the input gear out, and put this new input gear in. Takes about 30 min to 60 min depending on your skill level.

Please PM me for pricing/availability

 

UPDATE 4/18/2018

I still make these. I don't always respond to this thread because the board doesn't always email me when there is a new post. Just send me a PM and I will get back to you shortly.



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  • 3


#325607 Steering Wheel Clunking Petition Y/N ?

Posted by perk03z06 on 13 November 2006 - 06:03 PM

Here it is boys. I'd like to know who I could place on a letter to GM about the still unresolved steering mechanism clunking that is a common problem to all of our trucks.

If I can get enough votes, I'll draft a letter to GM with everyone's information so that we have a chance of seeing a fix for this issue.

Your support is of course, very appreciated.

If you vote yes, leave me your info. in a post.

Thanks!
  • 3


#974335 Custom Fiberglass Silverado SS roll pans

Posted by dkkustoms on 07 March 2015 - 09:27 PM

Update 4-11-18
Roll pans are done and ready to ship. For anyone thats pmed me or emailed me I think I responded to everyone. Get them while you can.


Update 3-25-18
All rollpans are sold. I will probably make another run of these. Ill talk to my fiberglass guy this week and see how busy he is. As Ive said before, I will make these as long as there is a demand. But it took a while to sell all the rollpans from the last run so this run will be smaller. If you want one I suggest getting it sooner or later. This may be the last run if the demand is gone.
 
https://www.paypal.m...e/SSrollpan/600
 
March 2015
They are finlly done and ready to ship.  Up for sale are custom fiberglass roll pan specifically for Silverado SS trucks. These roll pans are modeled from a cleaned up and slightly modified BSER roll pan. If you have one of these trucks, you know that a normal Silverado roll pan will not work. These roll pans are designed to wrap the sides to fill the voids to line up with the factory cladding. Some trimming is required. The roll pans have extra material to allow the end user to fit the roll pan to their truck since each truck will be slightly different. Professional installation with fiberglass experience is recommended. Stainless studs with backing plates included.
 
 
Price is $600 shipped.  I can send you a paypal funds request or you can simply send me the funds.  Do not send as a gift.  If you send it first, send it as a purchase so we are both covered by paypal and so I have your shipping info.  I ship Fedex ground, insured and signature required.  Local pickup is available with a $50 discount in the LA area/Southern California.  I'm in the San Fernando Valley and available to meet up reasonable distances depending on my work schedule. My email is [email protected]
 
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  • 2


#908647 Resto-mod SSS

Posted by jaxxon on 19 May 2013 - 09:02 PM

Hey all thanks for all the input, I really appreciate it.  Ok so now I'm trying to come up with a trick cold air induction system. Yeah, normallly I'm a function only guy and I know the dual set up is more than enough air, but hey I can use 1/2 size K/N conicals. 

Attached Files


  • 2


#865179 Karma is B!%CH

Posted by JC03SS on 02 October 2012 - 09:58 AM

Good to hear bro. Remember what I said. Good things happen to good people. Hope you get your job back a well.
  • 2


#855116 dropping a vho

Posted by NoMoreBadAssSilvy on 01 August 2012 - 10:15 AM

Put your t-keys back in stock position, get either drop spindles or LCA's for the front. For the rear get shackles and hangers. To ride smooth replace the shocks with Belltech Street Performance.
  • 2


#841086 Windshield SS Decal

Posted by idahoBLKss on 01 May 2012 - 02:00 PM

yeah just send me a pm what you want and color/size and ill get you squared away.
  • 2


#810890 Leaning The Carbon Off The Valves

Posted by Guest on 25 October 2011 - 12:51 AM

I always drive mine like I stole it, it's an SS!
  • 2


#802950 Vortec Max Engine Cover Top Piece ~ $60

Posted by Matt* on 11 September 2011 - 11:50 AM

I thought the guy on PT.net bought it already?

Oh and umm...




... i'm still winning +1 and a free BUMP! :robottx1:


Haha theres like 3 guys on PT.net that think they want it but no ones paypal'in over the money yet lol!

and yaaa

Your only ahead 2 points now.... Posted Image
  • 2


#798288 Inteior /Extrior Lights

Posted by kbuchner on 15 August 2011 - 11:32 PM

I want to change all my lights to l e d lights... does anybody know what are the numbers of the bulbs... thanks


exterior:
tails - 3157 (4 red/ 2 white)
sidemarkers- 194 (4 amber)
under-mirror courtesy - 4410 (2 white)
DRL's - 4114
3rd brake light - 912 (2 red/ 2 white)
license plate - 194 (2 white)
Front turn signals- 3157 (2)

Interior:
dome - 4410 (1)
map lights - 194 (2)
courtesy step lights in door - 194 (2)
glove box - 194 (1)

superbrightleds is where i got all mine from. any questions just ask.
  • 2


#745027 Reputation -1?

Posted by Gasemall on 18 October 2010 - 06:26 AM

Mine is a -1 also. Not sure that i care that much, except if i'm trying to sell something and someone else is looking at the reputation. How about a mod explain how you can have a neg rep and no explanation behind it or info on who gave it and why?
  • 2


#718450 Welcome Back!

Posted by Josh on 15 April 2010 - 01:30 PM

fixed
  • 2


#965931 Lifters, head gasket, bolts

Posted by GI.SS on 12 October 2014 - 05:53 PM

drop the pain and see if anything is in there.... iv used ls2's and ls7's with good luck. i really like the morel linkbar lifters myself but a good comp lifter should suffice. toss in a new ls2 timing chain and new factory pump if ya can. good insurance. if it is on the stand, i would toss in some ARP2000 rod bolts as well, But that is just me. If i had the time, id go threw the entire engine and re-ring and bearing it. You already have it on a stand and have it down so far. This is just my opinion and will really depend on budget and how fast you need the 6.0 in your truck. 


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