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#718448 Welcome Back!

Posted by Mervz on 15 April 2010 - 12:55 PM

Yo everyone! We're back and running Invision Board 3.0.

Try out the new reputation system by up-voting this post. (bottom right of this)!

Some notes:
- New smilies will be added later
- There are still a few bugs and small fixes needed to be made (mostly cosmetic)
- We're still figuring out how to get Supporting Vendor banners to display correctly and quickly

With that said, if you find anything that does not seem to work as it should, please us know by posting what you find in this thread. :cheers:
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Posted by canadianVRss on 02 May 2013 - 01:16 AM

We need a sticky for this! lol. If your truck is a 2003 you HAVE to convert your fuel system to a returnless setup using the corvette fuel filter if you use the TBSS/NNBS fuel rail. 04+ trucks all have the return-less fuel system already. You WILL need to modify your stock crossover on your fuel rail or use the TBSS/NNBS rail. I was fortunate enough to know a friend with a TBSS and got the TB, Intake, Fuel Rail, and Injectors(30#) from his TBSS for $100 which was a steal. Then you WILL need an X-Link adapter, there is no way around it, $227 after paypal fees. If you use the TBSS injectors you will need injector adapters. mini delphi to ev6. Your stock injectors will work on the TBSS/NNBS fuel rail. You can purchase the evap at o reilys for $15. There is no difference between the NNBS and TBSS intake. The Newer(09+) NNBS truck have a different style throttle body but all TBSS and NNBS throttle bodies are 87mm. I ported mine and will let yall know the gains of the swap after its installed and retuned which will probably be this weekend.
(03 only) corvette fuel filter $40
TBSS TB andTBSS Intake $200ish
X-Link                              $227
Evap                                $15
any other questions just ask

You got er. You can use your old evap if you're good at doing a little bit of plumbing. But that's kinda ghetto, I still need to purchase a new gen lV evap.
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#802050 How To: Rear Sway Bar Install

Posted by sinr98 on 06 September 2011 - 01:26 AM

Ok here is a "How To" on a Hellwig 7800 Adjustable Rear Sway Bar Kit.
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I decided to go with this kit for one being the price, and for two the adjustability of it.
Total time to install was 3hrs, with some of the time spent on wire wheeling and painting some of the rear of the frame and components.

Tools needed:
Factory spare tire remover if the spare is still under the truck.
Jack with the capacity to raise the rear.
Jack stands with the capacity to support the weight.
Creeper or cardboard to crawl under the truck.
Ratchet, Wrenches, Sockets, and a Impact of Air Ratchet. (Sockets and wrenches 3/4" and 11/16")
Bench vise or press

Start by chocking the front wheels, and raise the rear of the truck up enough to get yourself under there. Put jack stands under the rear axle as far out as possible. Make sure the truck is stable and safe to work under.

Remove the spare tire if you still have it under the bed.

Start assembling the components of the sway bar:
The kit has adjustable end links and a "D" shaped bushing that will need greased with the grease included in the kit.
Apply some grease to the inside of the end link eyelets, and apply some grease to the inside and outside of the "hourglass" bushings that are for the end links.
*note: Clean about half of the threads on the male end link with a bench grinder mounted wire wheel, or some other method of cleaning the paint from the threads. *
Install the "hourglass" bushings in the end link eyelets like so:

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I used a vise to install mine, but a press or hammer can also work.
After the bushings are installed in the end links, install the metal bushings inside of the poly bushings. Use a little grease on the outside of the sleeve, and tap them in with a hammer till the sleeve is centered in the bushing.
Apply the lock bolts on the male end links, and thread them about a half inch into the female end link. Use some grease on the threads or some anti-seize to prevent galling the threads and rusting.

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Now move on to the sway bar bushing. The "D" bushing will be placed on the flat spots in between the rear arm and the center hump. Grease the inside and outside of the bushings, and spread them apart and install on to the sway bar. Make sure when you install the sway bar, the drop in the center of the sway bar faces down.

Now crawl under the rear of the truck taking notice to the pass side of the differential. There is a plastic clip style support that holds your brake line and e-brake cable. Lift up on the top part of this and pull the clip off of the axle tube. Using a little bit of pressure, pull the brake line out a little bit (1/4")

Gather your parts for the first set of brackets, and sway bar and get them in position for easy reaching under the truck. The parts are the 2 1/2" u-bolts with the nuts and washers, set of axle brackets that do not have the brackets welded to them, and the sway bar bushing bracket that has the hump in it. *Remember that the drop in the sway bar needs to be facing down*

Place the u-bolts on top of the axle about 2" from the end of the differential center section. Make sure that there are no lines or hoses under them. Now take the axle tube bracket and slide it on to the u-bolt followed by the bushing bracket and put (1) washer and (1) nut on the drive shaft side of the u-bolt leaving the front side of the brackets hanging. Do the same to the other side of the axle.
When both sides have the brackets hanging, put one side of the sway bar up to the brackets and clamp the bushing in to the bracket and slide it on to the u-bolt followed by another wahser and nut. Repeat the same on the other side of the axle. Leave the brackets enough play to move around but still on the loose side.
Center the sway bar to the rear end by using the differential bolts and a center point, and adjust the u-bolts and sway bar bushings in the center of the flat spot on the sway bar.

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Now on to the rear of the sway bar:

Install the other set of u-bolts on top of the upper frame cross member making sure not to have any wires or lines under them. They should be placed right next to the exhaust hanger on the pass side and between the shock mount and frame on the drivers side.
Grab the other set of brackets, 4 washers, and 4 lock nuts. Place the brackets into the u-bolts followed by the washers and bolts. These bolts are a PITA to do with a ratchet due to them being a picnhed style nut. I used my little 3/8" impact to run the nuts up and left enough play to be able to adjust the brackets. Do the same to the other side.

Now grab the end links, bolts, washers, and nuts.
Install the top half of the end links first. The top of the end links are the part with the threads on the outside. Now bring the sway bar up to the end links and verify that the end link is to the outside (between the frame and sway bar) of the sway bar. Once the brackets are adjusted to the correct distance lining up to the sway bar, check over the front of the sway bar making sure that there is nothing interfearing with the sway bar. Make sure the axle brackets are parallel to the frame, and still centered on the axle and the bushings are still in the center of the sway bar.

Tighten the front u-bolts to 45lbft with a torque wrench, and apply a second nut to each bolt head and tighten them down.

Now raise the rear of the sway bar back up to the end links. You can start out by adjusting the end links to mount to the rear most hole of the sway bar. You will be checking for 3 things here. First is the end link should be vertical to the frame if looking from the back to front, while also lining up with the outside of the sway bar. Second is the sway bar should be parallel to the frame. Thirs is that the end link should be mounted at a 90* angle to the frame and sway bar. To ge the end link to mount vertical to the sway bar, you might have to rotate the bracket to the front or rear of the truck while adjusting the end link up or down by turning the female end link clockwise or counter clockwise.

They should look like this when done:
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Once everything is mounted and checked for enough clearance between everything, start tightening the rear down. Torque the u-bolts to 40lbft, as well as the top bolts on the end links. Check the alignment of the sway bar as mentioned earlier and adjust accordingly if needed to get the sway bar and end link close to a 90* angle to eachother.
Now torque down the lower bolts to 40lbft.

Jack the rear of the truck up and remove the lack stands and lower the truck. Verify that the sway bar isnt binding up, and that it's not hitting anything under the truck. This can be done by jumping up and down in the bed and listening to anything that may seem out of place. Now raise the truck back up and place the jack stands back under it. Take a look at the sway bar and everything around it to see if it was rubbing on anything. Also double check all the nuts and bolts making sure they are all torqued down.

Install the spare tire if you have one. You will have to put it up at an angle on one side to clear the lower end link bolt. Crank the tire up till it's tight, and drop the truck back down.

Here is the final outcome.

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You might notice that in one of the last pics the tail pipe is missing....... I got the urge to cut it off to see what the sound would be since I was about to take the duals off and put my Borla and e-cutout on. Well it sounds nasty with the cam. I am gonna keep the exhaust like this with the exception of 2 turn downs welded on the end of it to keep it from echoing through the truck. Then it will come off when I put the turbo on and the other exhaust will go on then.

A couple things I would like to mention:

**** I take no responsibility for installation errors, missing data, anything that breaks, or accidents caused by this!!!****
If you are tackling this, you should have the knowledge to check things over and also read the directions given in the kit from the manufacture.
Yes the truck is dirty, and needs some love on the frame. They will be done, and done right when I pull the bed off to do the fuel pump and some other suspension upgrades..... (Stay Tuned for this)

Review of the parts and handling:

Fitment of the kit to the SSS was about a 8.5 out of a 10.
Quality of materials in the kit was about a 8 out of 10.
Handling without any modifications to the sway bar after install so far is a 9 out of 10. This is due to the fact that the truck is so much stiffer on the roads and if you have ever driven on a road in Ohio, you know how they are grooved out, bumpy, and alot of pot holes to make the truck wander a little. But you can feel the difference in cornering and taking a on/off ramp at a higher speed. It has virturally no rear end roll or lean coming out of a turn while giving it some gas.

Over all the kit IMHO is a 9.5 out of 10. Cost of the kit was a huge plus, and the fact that it's adjustable made my decision on the kit a no brainer. :driving:
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#718810 Video: Silveradoss.Com Part 3

Posted by Josh on 16 April 2010 - 06:27 PM

Name: SilveradoSS.com Part 3
Category: Silverado SS's
Date Added: 16 April 2010 - 07:27 PM
Submitter: Josh
Short Description: None Provided

Enjoy Part III

Props to Dan aka Fireman31 for making this awesome video. Great start to the new videos section...

Dan says stay tuned for Part IV!


View Video
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#589187 4l80e Nvg-149 32 Spline Input Gear Adapter

Posted by Time2Kill on 23 January 2009 - 01:24 PM

I've been selling these for quite awhile, but I don't think anyone really knows about them. Chuck at FLT has been using them for a few years with excellent success. We have had them in several 800hp+ Silverados and Escalades that have swapped to a 4L80E with the NVG-149 Transfer case. Not a single one has failed yet unlike the turned down output shafts for the 4L80E.

This swap is very easy to to do. You just need to take apart the stock transfer case, pull the input gear out, and put this new input gear in. Takes about 30 min to 60 min depending on your skill level.

Please PM me for pricing/availability


UPDATE 4/18/2018

I still make these. I don't always respond to this thread because the board doesn't always email me when there is a new post. Just send me a PM and I will get back to you shortly.


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#325607 Steering Wheel Clunking Petition Y/N ?

Posted by perk03z06 on 13 November 2006 - 06:03 PM

Here it is boys. I'd like to know who I could place on a letter to GM about the still unresolved steering mechanism clunking that is a common problem to all of our trucks.

If I can get enough votes, I'll draft a letter to GM with everyone's information so that we have a chance of seeing a fix for this issue.

Your support is of course, very appreciated.

If you vote yes, leave me your info. in a post.

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#980055 OEM SS rims

Posted by Lobokpop on 02 July 2015 - 12:22 PM

Is there anyone looking for OEM 20" SS rims?
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#953413 Selling my SS 408 F1R,should be 1000whp 10 sec truck,lost interest :(

Posted by allballz57 on 11 May 2014 - 11:00 PM

Your right Chris,Sale on my T/A is pending so looks like ill be keeping the truck if it goes through! thanks for the interest,maybe ill sell it some other time.
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#948832 Tapatalk Picture Thread

Posted by Sanders on 29 March 2014 - 05:03 PM

Attached File  uploadfromtaptalk1396130601658.jpg   49.71KB   105 downloadsAttached File  uploadfromtaptalk1396130616044.jpg   48.18KB   104 downloads How's that? Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
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#911005 FS: BSER Roll Pan Painted Black

Posted by 2BFAST on 05 June 2013 - 12:58 PM

Here is the deal


The cladding is installed by hand at the factory. So not one cladding is going to be in the same position as the next. When Bob made the mold he made it to his truck. Which is the reason why it just wont bolt right up to everyones elses. You have to take away material and even add to get it to line up. Then prep and paint.


With that said, that is the reason why I say you will have to start from scratch on this. Unless you want it to look like Hellen Keller installed it

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#877702 How To Install Power Folding Mirrors

Posted by SSilverBeast on 23 December 2012 - 04:19 PM

I wonder if it's that easy on the NBS trucks?
My 2009 GMC had this function along with the trun signals in the glass. The 2010+ doesn't include this option, unless you get the GMC Denali or LTZ Silverado.

I heard from Eddie (OneSlickSilvy) that its a lot harder to add this option to the NBS trucks.
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#812870 I Am Looking To Buy 1 Oem Chrome Ss Rim...

Posted by Guest on 06 November 2011 - 07:52 PM

The reproductions are made to exact OEM specs so they are the exact same. The only difference is the stamp on the outer wall.
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#811490 Ss Wheel Badge And Gmpd Emblem

Posted by Matt* on 28 October 2011 - 02:37 AM

The GMPD Emblems and that awesome steering wheel airbag looks awesome. Here's a quick pic of my GMPD badge too. They look awesome. :thumbs:

Kinda a crappy blurred night picture but you get the idea:
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#806254 New Guy From Perth Australia

Posted by Guest on 02 October 2011 - 08:59 PM

Nope they have to be shipped and converted to right hand drive.
Conversion will run you about 30 to 40 grand depending on model.

Yikes, I like the SSS but not THAT much, you really gonna pay that much for one and the conversion?
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#754195 Autocheck Report

Posted by Matt* on 11 December 2010 - 09:15 PM

I've got an autocheck unlimted for the next 30 days! So if you want your VIN run, PM me with your email address and vin so I can email you the report! :pepsicheer:
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#745029 Reputation -1?

Posted by kcsilveradoss on 18 October 2010 - 07:05 AM

I'm negative also, but it might be because I'm a prick :yellow_loser:
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#727762 The Driver Behind The Beloved Sss

Posted by DEISS on 13 June 2010 - 08:24 PM

FAT WHITE GUY :pepsicheer: :driving:
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#977832 Mystery Coolant leak

Posted by skolman91 on 14 May 2015 - 05:41 PM

take the plastic skid cover off and take a real good look at the water pump to block for signs of a leak, the gaskets seem to go before even the water pumps do. My brothers truck lost coolant for for a long time with no real trace of it on the ground, could only tell if you took the skid plate off and looked at things.. my 2cents for today..

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