Jump to content

Need to replace transfer case


Recommended Posts

So I need to replace my transfer case. I was td itd cost more to have it rebuilt than to just buy a new one and swap them out. What transfer case do I need and are there any out there that are stronger than what came in it from the factory? Right now I only have a cai and full exhaust but plan on adding more later down the road. Heads, cam and either nitrous or pro charger. Thanks in advance.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Im surprised its usually always cheaper to rebuild vs replace. Did you totally gernade your t-case? If you go new its actually rebuilt also as they dont make new ones anymore. If I recall the GM transfer case have a 3yr warranty and have a $200 rebate. If you rebuild locally you can buy parts and upgrade the weak spots of the case. The thing they are most nortorious for is wearing a pin hole in case. I think In the aftermarket they make a kit to eleminate the issue. I have a RWD truck as I didnt want to have to deal with all the t-case issues..... lol.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah the dealership transfer case was rebuilt not new wish they told me that I wouldve done the rebuild first cause I was expecting to get a new one and these are pretty easy to swap out in the driveway with a couple of ramps drain it and remove the Driveshafts and its only 6 bolts holding it on definitely worth trying if youre trying to save money.

 

When I went through it again I also upgraded to a hd rear case along with a MA pump plate had driveshaft problems that caused the rear bushing and bearings to wear out enough to allow the speed sensor to rub the shaft.

Edited by Aldofashow (see edit history)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Im surprised its usually always cheaper to rebuild vs replace. Did you totally gernade your t-case? If you go new its actually rebuilt also as they dont make new ones anymore. If I recall the GM transfer case have a 3yr warranty and have a $200 rebate. If you rebuild locally you can buy parts and upgrade the weak spots of the case. The thing they are most nortorious for is wearing a pin hole in case. I think In the aftermarket they make a kit to eleminate the issue. I have a RWD truck as I didnt want to have to deal with all the t-case issues..... lol.

No I'm actually still driving it lol, its started whining and is progressively getting louder. I took it to the shop and let them look at it and he said itd cost more parts and labor to rebuild it than it would to just replace it. I've never had anything awd, I came from f bodies so I know very little about these things. Honestly the cost isnt my biggest concern, I just want to get it right and have something that can handle some more power

Also any links you guys can find on rebuild kits or parts to beef it up would be great.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My first question is are you sure it's you t-case? The front diff on these things can whine as well. But if it is your t-case, like Aldofashow said parts are around 600 however you should throw in a sonnax case saver kit. Technical wise it's not that bad to do if you have common shop tools and a good stiff pair of lock ring pliers. I used a MAC tools pair and they worked great. Otherwise getting the lock ring out can piss you off. These cases are chain driven so the whining kinda makes me wonder. There is a test you can do to check the fluid coupler in it. It is online and in this site. But if you pull the driveshafts and check play and all that, if it seems ok do the coupler test. Have you checked the fluid? What does it look like? Just a few things to consider. They hold up pretty good normally. But anything is possible in a mechanical world. I did mine at 120k and all it needed was bushings, chains, replaced the pump anyway, case saver kit and a set of chain gears and bearings.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My first question is are you sure it's you t-case? The front diff on these things can whine as well. But if it is your t-case, like Aldofashow said parts are around 600 however you should throw in a sonnax case saver kit. Technical wise it's not that bad to do if you have common shop tools and a good stiff pair of lock ring pliers. I used a MAC tools pair and they worked great. Otherwise getting the lock ring out can piss you off. These cases are chain driven so the whining kinda makes me wonder. There is a test you can do to check the fluid coupler in it. It is online and in this site. But if you pull the driveshafts and check play and all that, if it seems ok do the coupler test. Have you checked the fluid? What does it look like? Just a few things to consider. They hold up pretty good normally. But anything is possible in a mechanical world. I did mine at 120k and all it needed was bushings, chains, replaced the pump anyway, case saver kit and a set of chain gears and bearings.

Yeah, it's the t case, I already had the front diff rebuilt, fluid looks good in it, I changed it as soon as I bought the truck. Coincidentally my truck has about 125k on it as well

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

it's funny after adding a reply to an earlier post I'd figure I would post my problem. Earlier in this post I went through my case. Then I had a vibration at around 67. Turned out to be my slip yoke u joint. Which vibrated to the point of wearing out the bushing in the rear of the transfer case. Which down the line started putting stress on the main output shaft bearing, to the point where it wallowed out the casing. My output shaft on the transfer case had over 1/4 inch, so I tried the aluminum rear case. Did not line up right and I was shaking my head saying this doesn't feel right. So I found the original magnesium case. It came with the bushing and internal roller bearing installed. Popped the seals in, smashed it together and torqued the bolts and after around town runs and then a couple 137 mph runs verified by gps and a stalker dsr radar system running,  it is as smooth as glass.... it is good. Just dropped the fluid again to check, and put new in. And I use GM auto trak ll fluid. I run my truck hard, it was good to see what worn out. Now that it's back up I have no problem punching it on the turnpike to get to top speed and have a worry about something failing. These trucks are badass when things are right.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...