jsanders347 Posted August 1, 2017 Report Share Posted August 1, 2017 My truck threw a CEL resulting in two codes that are related to the evap fuel system. In the past I've replaced the evap solenoid on top of the fuel tank. Dropping the tank sucked. I started by replacing the fuel cap with high hopes it would clear the codes and of course it didn't. So. I figured since there's only eight bolts holding the bed on and two by the fuel door and I think two plugs I'd just pull it off. I soaked the bolts for two nights. I knew one was gonna suck I just didn't know which. All the driver side bolts came out with no issue. But the second bolt from the back on the passenger side won't come out. And of course I can't get to it. I can't drop my spare tire because there is a lock on it that apparently my truck key won't unlock. I'm guessing there's a threaded insert that's pressed into the metal and that insert broke free and is spinning with the bolt. I'm kinda stumped here and am open for suggestions from any and all. Please. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chevybowtie72 Posted August 2, 2017 Report Share Posted August 2, 2017 Could u possibly cut the bolt head off? Just got done with removing my bed on for a new fuel pump. Either cut or a drill bit big enough to drill out the head of the bolt. That bolt that is stuck is the hardest to get to since the leaf springs are in the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eberhama Posted August 2, 2017 Report Share Posted August 2, 2017 You can weasel a sawzall blade between the mount and the box, and cut the head off. You can tack the insert once the box is off to keep it from spinning, or run with 7 bolts. My question is why are you taking the box off if you have an evap code? the solenoid and canister can be serviced from the bottom pretty easily, no box removal required. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Downeast Johnny Posted August 2, 2017 Report Share Posted August 2, 2017 If you do have to remove the bed I would start by getting the spare tire down and out of the way. Even if I had to call a locksmith. Lots of guys have trouble dropping the spare even with the lock unlocked because the cable system loves to rust up and freeze up. Many have to cut them down. Gonna have to deal with it eventually Now you've got an excuse. I don't think that drilling the bolt head off is going to work because, once the drill bit takes a bite, the bolt will start spinning. With the spare tire out of the way, you should be able to put a socket and breaker bar on the bolt head to keep the bolt from spinning, and get a metal cutting blade in a saw-z-awl up under the head and cut the bolt. Doesn't sound like a fun job, (Actually it sounds and looks like a B-itch), but if you get that far you can figure out what to do to get to the nut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsanders347 Posted August 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2017 Got it. Thanks for the input fellas. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk You can weasel a sawzall blade between the mount and the box, and cut the head off. You can tack the insert once the box is off to keep it from spinning, or run with 7 bolts. My question is why are you taking the box off if you have an evap code? the solenoid and canister can be serviced from the bottom pretty easily, no box removal required.My solenoid sits on top of the fuel tank. Been down that road already. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Downeast Johnny Posted August 5, 2017 Report Share Posted August 5, 2017 Done is good! How did you wind up dealing with the spinning bolt? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsanders347 Posted August 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2017 Done is good! [emoji106] How did you wind up dealing with the spinning bolt? Drilled out the lock on the spare tire. The stupid cable was froze so I ended up dropping the spare tire assembly. After that was out of the way I used a sawzal (spelled wrong) to cut the head off the bolt. The rust on the frame is staggering. The rear bumper is gone. Gonna do some sand blasting and painting before the bed goes back on. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Downeast Johnny Posted August 6, 2017 Report Share Posted August 6, 2017 I've read that the cable freeze is a real common problem. I'll be surprised if mine isn't. (Haven't tried it.) Bummer about the rust. Mine doesn't look too bad but I haven't taken the bed off yet. Are you going to do anything about the loose nut in the bed rail? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsanders347 Posted August 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2017 I've read that the cable freeze is a real common problem. I'll be surprised if mine isn't. (Haven't tried it.) Bummer about the rust. Mine doesn't look too bad but I haven't taken the bed off yet. Are you going to do anything about the loose nut in the bed rail? If yours is froze up there's just one bolt holding that assembly to the frame. I think it was a 15mm. Back that out and take the whole thing down, tire and all. I think I'm gonna leave the nut as is. Seven bolts is plenty to hold the box on lol Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Downeast Johnny Posted August 6, 2017 Report Share Posted August 6, 2017 If yours is froze up there's just one bolt holding that assembly to the frame. I think it was a 15mm. Back that out and take the whole thing down, tire and all. I think I'm gonna leave the nut as is. Seven bolts is plenty to hold the box on lol Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk Thanks for the info on the spare assembly. I need to get into some time. Your probably right about 7 bolts holding the box on OK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eberhama Posted August 7, 2017 Report Share Posted August 7, 2017 Mine has 7 bolts, and my box was off a rust free texas truck. Doesn't take much to spin those inserts. Do you have a pic of you evap solenoid? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsanders347 Posted August 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2017 This has sucked. Lots of grinding. Lots of paint. Lots of beer. But it's almost done. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsanders347 Posted August 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2017 There it is brother man. Apparently there's a memo out with relocation info. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Downeast Johnny Posted August 13, 2017 Report Share Posted August 13, 2017 (edited) Nice work on the frame rehab. That bumper was rough. I wouldn't have figured Kentucky would be that bad for rust. Did the truck spend time in the rust belt? Did you blast the rust or clean it up by hand? Edited August 13, 2017 by Downeast Johnny (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsanders347 Posted August 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2017 Nice work on the frame rehab. [emoji106] That bumper was rough. I wouldn't have figured Kentucky would be that bad for rust. Did the truck spend time in the rust belt? Did you blast the rust or clean it up by hand? Thank you sir. It came out of Illinois. Hayfield or Fairfield? Probably making those up. I used a wire brush and a wire wheel in a pneumatic drill. It took forever. Changed the rear end fluid while it was so accessible. I should have blasted the cover before I painted it but oh well. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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