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Coilover Conversion


mctwist77

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Has anyone done the Coilover Conversion that member Atomic (Richard) offers. I'm about to order a set but I wanted to see if anyone on here has taken the plunge yet. I did a 2/2 drop with spindles and the ride quality is still unacceptable (Yes, I used Belltech lowering shocks) Here is the link.

 

http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/topic/85733-99-07-4wd-front-coilover-conversion/

 

Im about to order the stud top with 10 inch eibach springs.

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I wish I had read about this before ordering my drop kit. I guess the upside is the drop kit is still sitting in boxes; haven't had time to do anything with it.

 

Definitely considering the coilover conversion. Something else I'll have to fight to find the time to install...

 

Richard

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Awesome! What set up did you go with? I'm about to buy the Stud Top kit, the DS 401 shocks, with 10 inch Eibach Springs at 800lbs.

I think I went with ds301 or ds302 shocks and 7b1300 Hyperco Springs. I didn't go for the top stud just bc so many people have had problems with it (might have been sorted out by now.) I actually think I'm about to sell my truck and I'll be selling my whole kit. I spoke with Richard and we set it up for a 3" drop.

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I think I went with ds301 or ds302 shocks and 7b1300 Hyperco Springs. I didn't go for the top stud just bc so many people have had problems with it (might have been sorted out by now.) I actually think I'm about to sell my truck and I'll be selling my whole kit. I spoke with Richard and we set it up for a 3" drop.

I have the same setup and will be installing it one of these days on my truck. How do you like it?

 

To the OP I bought the stud kit and did not like all the play the 3/8" stud has in the .800 DIA. top brackets. That along with my ride height not being what I would have wanted with the DS301 shocks decided I will not use the stud setup.

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What do you mean? It was loose?

Did you contact Richard about the issue?

IMO there was nothing to keep the shock stud perfectly centered in top bracket. I don't know if that would be a problem or not over time. I just didn't the idea of the front of my 5000lbs truck being held up by two 3/8" studs if there is a possibility of them moving around in a .800 hole and possibly being weakened because they are not perfectly centered in the bracket causing metal to metal contact between the stud and hole in the bracket.

 

Also the bushing he sells have to be very hard to support the weight of the vehicle without distorting. With the bushings as hard as they are IMO unless the shock stays perfectly perpendicular to the top bracket I also felt that it might side load the bushing one way or the other causing some stress on the stud.

 

I don't know if any of those things are issues or would actually cause any problems over time. I've never heard anyone having a problem. I'm a aerospace machinist though and it probably makes me a little more picky than most people. In any case for those reasons, unless your trying get your truck as low as possible, for me I like the other two setups he sells more than the stud type.

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IMO there was nothing to keep the shock stud perfectly centered in top bracket. I don't know if that would be a problem or not over time. I just didn't the idea of the front of my 5000lbs truck being held up by two 3/8" studs if there is a possibility of them moving around in a .800 hole and possibly being weakened because they are not perfectly centered in the bracket causing metal to metal contact between the stud and hole in the bracket.

 

Also the bushing he sells have to be very hard to support the weight of the vehicle without distorting. With the bushings as hard as they are IMO unless the shock stays perfectly perpendicular to the top bracket I also felt that it might side load the bushing one way or the other causing some stress on the stud.

 

I don't know if any of those things are issues or would actually cause any problems over time. I've never heard anyone having a problem. I'm a aerospace machinist though and it probably makes me a little more picky than most people. In any case for those reasons, unless your trying get your truck as low as possible, for me I like the other two setups he sells more than the stud type.

 

Hey, I just wanted to drop in to give more info. I am sorry you arent happy with the stud bushing setup, and if you want to send it back I will give you a full refund for it. I do not believe using the stud top poses any risk at all. The way I made the stud bushing washers it is basically fixed between the gussets of the upper bracket and the side of the frame shock hoop. Here is a picture so you can see what I mean:

IMG_4438%20Custom_zpspxf3trha.jpg

 

The washers are also slightly oversized so the bushing material does not overflow the washers. You are correct the bushing material is very hard, it is actually 95A on the durometer scale, somewhere between a car tire and a golf ball. Something in the 80A-90A range might be better but I was more worried about it giving too much vs not giving enough.

 

The angle of the bracket puts the shock perpendicular to the shock at the mid-travel position. The angle of the stud will change with the motion of the wheel, but this is a very small amount in reality. I recommend using the rubber bushing included with the stud top for the top so the stud can articular some. The washers are a tight fit for the stud and if you look at the picture the washer sits on top of the nut at the bottom of the stud so it is supported there and not just on the shaft.

 

With all that in mind, I have sold probably a dozen of the bushing kits and never had a complaint and certainly not a failure. The stud top option is most useful for super-low setups and mid travel setups would really be fine with the stud top or the procomp mount. My reason for making it was to put the option out there for the guys that wanted a 4"+ static drop with this swap, but its just an option of course.

 

I appreciate feedback though and am always trying to think of ways I can improve the design or add features.

 

Thanks,

Richard

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Hey, I just wanted to drop in to give more info. I am sorry you arent happy with the stud bushing setup, and if you want to send it back I will give you a full refund for it. I do not believe using the stud top poses any risk at all. The way I made the stud bushing washers it is basically fixed between the gussets of the upper bracket and the side of the frame shock hoop. Here is a picture so you can see what I mean:

IMG_4438%20Custom_zpspxf3trha.jpg

 

The washers are also slightly oversized so the bushing material does not overflow the washers. You are correct the bushing material is very hard, it is actually 95A on the durometer scale, somewhere between a car tire and a golf ball. Something in the 80A-90A range might be better but I was more worried about it giving too much vs not giving enough.

 

The angle of the bracket puts the shock perpendicular to the shock at the mid-travel position. The angle of the stud will change with the motion of the wheel, but this is a very small amount in reality. I recommend using the rubber bushing included with the stud top for the top so the stud can articular some. The washers are a tight fit for the stud and if you look at the picture the washer sits on top of the nut at the bottom of the stud so it is supported there and not just on the shaft.

 

With all that in mind, I have sold probably a dozen of the bushing kits and never had a complaint and certainly not a failure. The stud top option is most useful for super-low setups and mid travel setups would really be fine with the stud top or the procomp mount. My reason for making it was to put the option out there for the guys that wanted a 4"+ static drop with this swap, but its just an option of course.

 

I appreciate feedback though and am always trying to think of ways I can improve the design or add features.

 

Thanks,

Richard

I did return return the stud top parts and I can vouch that Richard did refund me no problem. One of the main reason for me returning them was because the ride height was going to be too low for the DD301 shocks I had.

 

After having them in my hand at one point, yes the two gussets rest on the washer keeping the stud top from sliding in too far. I can't comment on the factory shock hoop being close enough on the other side to keep them from siding out in a different direction because I never got that far to really look at it once I realized my ride height wouldn't work. Either way there is a possibility of them moving around at least a little bit IMO.

 

Also I thought of using one of the stepped rubber bushings that come with the QA1 stud on the top side to hold everything centered and to give everything more flex to articulate. The problem I see with that is that is a very thick set up. You have a steel washer, the hard bushing, another steel washer, the top coilover bracket, the stock shock tower metal, the rubber stepped bushing that comes with the QA1 stud top, retaining washer and then the nut. I'm not so sure the stud is even long enough get the nut on top to hold all that together. I remember looking at it and thinking, maybe yes, maybe no. The guys who do the stud top without the top bracket probably have room for the rubber bushing on top but I'd like to see a picture of all that bolted together on a truck with the top bracket being used. Not that I'm saying it can't be done but I highly doubt that 3/8 stud itself was designed to be in a setup that is that thick with that many different parts even if it does.

 

Again I'm not saying it won't work and maybe had I of had a longer shock I'd of used the stud top myself. What I am saying is that I personally like the other 2 configurations better and unless your trying to go as low as possible, I don't see the reason to do the stud top.

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I actually made my own top shock mount at work that will hopefully put my ride height right where I want it.

 

post-24040-0-11855000-1469384693_thumb.jpg

 

I also turned down some solid steel bushings to go in place of the old wore out rubber ones in my factory control arms to hopefully make everything even tighter on the lower brackets also.

 

post-24040-0-53656100-1469384977_thumb.jpg

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Oh yea, I remember being very impressed by the parts you made!

 

I wouldn't put the rubber bushing included on the load side of the stud, I may just use it on the top. Like you said there probably isn't room for the included bushing + my kit.

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