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Need help with LED Front Turn Signal Lamps


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I recently swapped out my Front Turning Signals to LEDs. Turned on the truck to check if they would work and they light up. The problem is now when I use my turning signals I experience hyper flashing. I replaced the fuses to see if the problem would persist and I'm continuing to experience the same problem. I've searched for the a solution to the problem and people who have dealt with the same issue have replaced the Flash Relay. Just wondering if that's the way to go about it. Please leave any suggestions. Thank you.

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Don't understand why someone would get rid of the lights when the fix is so simple. About $35 on Amazon and this is the correct one for our trucks:

 

312bpGOzwqL._SY355_.jpg

In the older truck days of GMT400's (88-98 body style) there's a very easy hack that costs nothing to modify the original flasher, but it's a different part and I don't know if it applies to the ones used in GMT800's. The timer IC on the circuit board has one pin you can cut loose and it kills the "bulb out warning" function, or in other words, hyperflash. Done it numerous times. The flasher used in the 800's probably has the same timer chip, just didn't take the time to pop the cover to investigate.

 

Richard

Edited by someotherguy (see edit history)
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U need load resistors.. I bought a pair of switchbacks and it came with load resistors and problem solved 80d550f47114fb288fbc6940d6da4f9a.jpg

You can just buy the resistors it self f5715ee63a24a13c6465d0e548a23383.jpg748d17362e6e68f57c25622f747e582a.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Matter of opinion for sure, but the main benefits of using LED's are lower current draw on the circuit, and far less heat than incandescent bulbs. With the resistors you lose both of those benefits, although you do move the heat out of the lens housing. You still have to watch out for where you put them. Doesn't matter what size you get, if they pull down enough current to mimic the load of an incandescent bulb and stop the hyperflash, they will get hot as hell in a hurry.

 

Anyway no need to keep beating this dead horse, the easy solution of replacing the flasher is out there and IMO is the far better choice.

 

EDIT - a little more dead horse; I just popped the cover off my original flasher and it indeed uses the same U6043B timing IC that the old style flashers use. A quick clip of the #7 pin should stop hyperflash. Costs nothing, and super easy to do.

 

Richard

Edited by someotherguy (see edit history)
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  • 3 weeks later...

Don't understand why someone would get rid of the lights when the fix is so simple. About $35 on Amazon and this is the correct one for our trucks:

 

312bpGOzwqL._SY355_.jpg

In the older truck days of GMT400's (88-98 body style) there's a very easy hack that costs nothing to modify the original flasher, but it's a different part and I don't know if it applies to the ones used in GMT800's. The timer IC on the circuit board has one pin you can cut loose and it kills the "bulb out warning" function, or in other words, hyperflash. Done it numerous times. The flasher used in the 800's probably has the same timer chip, just didn't take the time to pop the cover to investigate.

 

Richard

Nice! Just bought some of the Zevo brand "super bright" leds from auto zone last night and ran into this issue. I came across the LM 487 module with a quick Google search, but this is better seeing someone actually say it works. They have them at autozone too btw. In case anyone was wondering, those zevo bulbs are VERY bright. Make sure to use the 3157R (they light up red.) Thanks again for the confirmation
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Cool you were able to pick it up local. I checked a few of the store websites and didn't see it in stock, so I just got it off Amazon.

 

I've also cut the pin on my stock one and have been meaning to try it just for the knowledge; probably be a while before I get around to it though.

 

Another thing, got in some small 12V adjustable voltage regulators that I intend to use to get the switchbacks working on this truck, too. They work fine at 12V battery voltage while the truck is off, but crank it up and they eventually start flickering and turn off; I'm pretty sure the running voltage of 15V is a bit much for 'em. I think bringing it down to 12~13 right at the socket should work.

Richard

Edited by someotherguy (see edit history)
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Holy crap! Yeah $45 is a bit much; I think I paid $32 shipped off Amazon, the guy here selling his for $30 was a good deal too.

 

Keep in mind I have not tested my hacked duo-flasher yet, but again it does use the same IC that the older style flasher does. It's a very commonly-used chip for this application. If you look at the IC with the printing right-side up, start at the bottom left corner - that's pin 1, and you go counter-clockwise. That makes pin 7 the 2nd pin from top left corner.

 

Blow this pic up full-size: http://www.someotherplace.com/temp/dual_flasher.jpg

 

In my particular example, the top row of printing on the timer IC is a symbol that sort of looks like a "T" then the numbers "518". Pin 7, the one to cut, is just above the "5" in "518". Do so very carefully, with tiny side-cutters, or even an Xacto knife.

 

I'd say until I get a chance to try mine, I would only suggest you do this if you don't care if you end up ruining your stock flasher - though I have probably 95% confidence it will work fine.

 

Richard

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Before I sold my Flasher I took a video of the flash speed with the stock flasher w/ pin cut (what I run) vs the aftermarket led Flasher

 

stock modded flasher:

[video=youtube;2Dl6JciEv4o]

 

LED flasher:

[video=youtube;XJXpe1ciQfY]

 

LED flasher is slower, closest to stock speed. But as you see the modded one isn't terrible for being free. You Clip the #7 pin on the inside, bottom left of the board. If I can find the pic I'll post

 

Edit:

14678157f4d141a55fe4d3861d034109.jpg

Edited by bassmaster (see edit history)
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