CaptKirk Posted June 22, 2015 Report Share Posted June 22, 2015 (edited) So as title says I lowered the truck 2" with DJM arms up front, and shackles in the rear. Also did belltech sport shocks all the way around fwiw. Issue #1: It had positive camber when it was done and the shop said this was normal (I wouldn't know, I come from the world of import tuners with coilovers..) and they said just to get it aligned soon. Since I had just put 22" chrome reps and new rubber on, that's exactly what I did. After the first alignment, the truck still looked like it had positive camber up front, it didn't look any different. Then I made them do it again a week later and give me a printout.. The machine says they're within 0.5deg of zero. The wheels still looked the same. The camber is obvious enough that my girlfriend who knows nothing about this stuff can tell the front wheels are 'angled'. I don't have a picture as of now. Is this normal? Do I need to have them run neg. camber for it to even out now that the geometry is different? I would think the machine could tell what the angle was regardless of mods.. Issue #2: Ever since the lowering, when I turn the wheel and turn sharp at slow speeds, like getting in/out of parking spots, there is a noticeable "click" somewhere in the front end. I would blame the front diff, but it just started happening since the lowering, never did that before. You can feel it in the entire truck, people think I ran over something when they're in the passenger seat. Once it 'clicks' it doesn't do it again (like if you keep driving in a circle). I'm thinking maybe it's a bushing somewhere that wasn't set right? By now all the clicks/creaks should be out of that stuff though, so if that's what it is, something was done wrong. The work was done by a reputable shop that does nothing but mod and lower trucks like this. They were very familiar with the parts I purchased. I called the shop and they said it could be the wheel weights rubbing on the arms or something. That doesn't seem like it would be the issue..with how rough this 'click' is, I would think it would tear the suckers off the wheel. I can't see any marks on the arms from rubbing, but I haven't gotten the truck up in the air for a real inspection yet. Any ideas? Thanks all Edited June 22, 2015 by CaptKirk (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1BAD2K Posted June 23, 2015 Report Share Posted June 23, 2015 (edited) More than likely the clunk is your intermediate steering shaft which is a very well known issue. Google it to learn more, but yu can unbolt it "give it a couple strokes" and bolt it back for a quick fix that'll last a couple months. Takes 1 minute to do. Edited June 23, 2015 by 1BAD2K (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GI.SS Posted June 23, 2015 Report Share Posted June 23, 2015 Maby a half shaft is letting go? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptKirk Posted June 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2015 More than likely the clunk is your intermediate steering shaft which is a very well known issue. Google it to learn more, but yu can unbolt it "give it a couple strokes" and bolt it back for a quick fix that'll last a couple months. Takes 1 minute to do. Did a little research on this. This seems probable as it doesn't always bind up.. I'll see if I can see/hear it better when I have somebody to turn the wheel for me while I watch in the bay. Thanks man Maby a half shaft is letting go? I looked into this a little too. What do you mean by letting go? As in the spline isn't meshing correctly anymore? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GI.SS Posted June 23, 2015 Report Share Posted June 23, 2015 More like the u joint inside is worn or broken (inside the boot) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptKirk Posted June 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2015 Ah I understand, I'll look into it and get back to this thread once I figure it out. Thanks guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptKirk Posted June 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2015 Anybody have any idea why the front wheels seem to have positive camber after the drop and two alignments? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NORCAL SS Posted June 28, 2015 Report Share Posted June 28, 2015 can you post your sheet they gave you showing the specs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptKirk Posted September 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2015 (edited) Hey everyone - reviving this old thread. I got caught up buying a house with some issues that I had to address.. As for the camber issue - here's the before/after printout I was given after the second alignment. Few pictures of the front camber...it looks blatantly positive to me but maybe I'm crazy? FWIW, I haven't noticed any significant wear patterns, and I've driven quite a bit. As for "issue 2" above, the clicking steering issue seems to have gone away. And I was finally able to get under the truck to see how badly I've been rubbing on the fenders. The fenders look fine, but I noticed the wheels' inside lip seems to have ground away at the new DJM arms. The gouge is about 1/4" into them and about 1" long...Hopefully that's not a structural catastrophe waiting to happen.. Edited September 6, 2015 by CaptKirk (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aldofashow Posted September 6, 2015 Report Share Posted September 6, 2015 I would think you could use a level on the front of the rim and tire from bottom to top and adjust your top a arm mounts until the tire and rim are level looks like the top of your tires stick out to far Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NORCAL SS Posted September 8, 2015 Report Share Posted September 8, 2015 looks like they did not move the upper a arm slots. they need to move upper a arms in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptKirk Posted September 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2015 (edited) I see, okay I'll have to check it out myself. The place that did the arms is a few hours away, if I can fix it myself I'll try that. Little short on tools. Thanks for the suggestions guys Edited September 8, 2015 by CaptKirk (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptKirk Posted September 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2015 (edited) Okay looked more into this and there's no way I'll be able to adjust control arms with the tools I have... Tony what specific instructions do I need to give to the shop to fix this? I have a feeling if I just say "move the upper arms in" they're either going to say "no it's just out of alignment" or do a bunch of unnecessary work due to not knowing the root cause. Thanks again Edited September 12, 2015 by CaptKirk (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NORCAL SS Posted September 13, 2015 Report Share Posted September 13, 2015 in fron the upper control arms are easy to adjust you get a wrench and unloosen the bolts and you can actually move the cams and that will either pull arm in more or push it out more Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptKirk Posted September 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2015 Oh, I looked at those and thought they were the camber adjustments and I'd mess up the alignment doing that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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